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V2L

This gives a bit of an insight:


 
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Just to add (as it was us that had to call the AA to the campsite):

When V2L is connected and the car is powered down (yes, it works fine) - there is a 2 amp load on the 12v starter battery. Nobody who has looked at the car can figure out why or what this is for, but it is there nonetheless. Just bear in mind that if you plan to leave the V2L plugged in for any length of time, the 12v battery may take a beating! The only way we managed to get round this was leave the car in Ready state (DRLs on).

This does somewhat limit the usefulness of V2L (we only intended to use it when camping to avoid paying for electric hookup).
 
there is a 2 amp load on the 12v starter battery. Nobody who has looked at the car can figure out why or what this is for, but it is there nonetheless
I was thinking the 2amp load was to keep the contacts closed to the high voltage
 
I’ve had mine plugged in and powering a lamp for an hour. The V2L is still functional and the car is powered down as per my procedure.

I am seeing 3.5Amps charge going to the 12V battery at present (using a clamp meter).

I will leave it all connected (too hot to drive anywhere today). I will monitor the 12V battery voltage and current draw.
Very interesting. Must be different build dates and firmware
 
This needs to be merged into the other V2L thread;

 
Correction, the 3.5Amp is drain from the battery.

With a voltmeter on the battery it is now reading 12.4V. It has gradually been dropping from 13.5V.

I “Scanned” the car using the app and the current went to >40Amps charging the battery. The battery voltage went to 13.9V and after a short period of less than 30 seconds it settled to 12.8V after the current returned to a 3.1Amp drain on the battery

I am not sure at what battery voltage level the car will turn on charging on its own, or if it will.

Just “Scanning” the car with the app does bring the voltage back up.

I don’t really want to let it drop below 12.4V.
 
In conclusion:

V2L does work without powering up the car to READY State, so DRLs do not have to be on and the car can be locked.

There is a drain on the 12V battery when V2L is enabled in this way - It appears that the software in the car does not look after the 12V battery when V2L is active and car is off and it may flatten the battery making it impossible to start the car if V2L is used for extended times - suggest to give yourselves two hours use before at least using the app to connect to the car.

Using the App to quiz the car will revive the battery. However, there is a momentary loss in the output to the V2L when the App connects to the car.

Note that the drain on the 12V battery is not related to the power draw on the V2L connector. Merely having the V2L enabled causes the drain in 12V battery.

If the car is on and in the READY State then the 12V battery is not an issue.
 
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I am about to get a v2L cable to commando to plug into my whole house battery inverter.

I can load the cars 70kWh battery at 7kWh during cheap rate energy. Then during the day if it looks like I may not have enough battery to get around to cheap rate again or if there is more than a 24 hour power cut.

Even with conversion losses it is substantially cheaper than peak rate energy. It is not for every day it is for exceptions.

For the sake of £200 I have a failover that can keep the house going for 6 days at normal usage on cheap rate power.

Cheapest battery is one you already own!
 
Sorry but I am becoming very confused about what can and can’t be done with V2L on MG cars I have watched other videos with other makes and they appear to just plug in the cable and away you go.
Les.
 
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Sorry but I am becoming very confused about what can and can’t be done with V2L on MG cars I have watch other videos with other makes and they appear to just plug in the cable and away you go.
Les.

That is exactly what it is with the MG ZS EV.

Plug it in, turn it on and you have power :)
 
I am about to get a v2L cable to commando to plug into my whole house battery inverter.

I can load the cars 70kWh battery at 7kWh during cheap rate energy. Then during the day if it looks like I may not have enough battery to get around to cheap rate again or if there is more than a 24 hour power cut.

Even with conversion losses it is substantially cheaper than peak rate energy. It is not for every day it is for exceptions.

For the sake of £200 I have a failover that can keep the house going for 6 days at normal usage on cheap rate power.

Cheapest battery is one you already own!
Anyone copying this please make sure that you have islanded the house from the mains and have a suitable local Earth arrangement. Please also take care to ensure the correct gender of live plugs - female.
 
Anyone copying this please make sure that you have islanded the house from the mains and have a suitable local Earth arrangement. Please also take care to ensure the correct gender of live plugs - female.

Also make sure you get a 32Amp cable. The “standard” cable supplied is usually 16Amp.

V2L is NOT meant to used in the way suggested.

If you have a solar/battery system it is possible that your system may have an AC Generator input. I guess this could be used?
 
This needs to be merged into the other V2L thread;
Done (I hope; it's confusing that the other thread seems to have 10 messages per page, and this one twenty or more).

I also added some links to the start of the first post of this thread. Let me know if you want more threads merged into this one.
 
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