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Vehicle to Load (V2L) - Any Information or First Hand Experiences?

To reset : remove rcd condition and system magically go on 10 seconds later.
This is done 3 times : after 3 errors in line, you must manually restart V2L with car tablet ("start discharge" button).
 
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Thanks for this useful information, John, and apologies for bothering you with it again. I'm in the middle of this rewiring process (having bought a non MG ZS adaptor via ebay). Now that I'm checking, I see that your detailed instructions on where to put the new resistor are different to the instructions that another writer has shared. Have you actually done this and tested it?

I thought that I'd try and put this to bed now that a few people have got the V2L cables fabricated (or purchased) and running.

You do not need to spend a king's ransom on an expensive cable from MG, but you should get one made from quality, EV rated components.

To that end I have attached the wiring diagram to this post that shows for EU, UK and Commando connections and below is the shopping list of components. Things like the Type 2 connector/cable are rising in price almost every day at the moment (the one I have linked to here has gone up over £10 since I purchased it a few weeks back for example).

However, as of today, it is possible to purchase all the parts needed and fabricate a 5m V2L cable with a UK double gang outlet for under £85 - an ENORMOUS saving on the MG price (if it ever materialises) and still a big saving over EV Cables.

Shopping list:

Type 2 Male connector with 5m pre-attached cable (£68.56)

470Ω 1W resistors (x10) (£1.89)

You only need ONE of the following depending on your country/requirements:

UK 2-gang rubber durable socket (£5.99)

Female 16 amp CEEE (Commando) socket (£8.78)

Female 16 amp Schuko IP44 (5,54€)
 
I cannot understand why there isn't official one yet car has been out long enough
Like this?
Screenshot_20221028_165324.jpg
 
Thanks for this useful information, John, and apologies for bothering you with it again. I'm in the middle of this rewiring process (having bought a non MG ZS adaptor via ebay). Now that I'm checking, I see that your detailed instructions on where to put the new resistor are different to the instructions that another writer has shared. Have you actually done this and tested it?
Yes, here's the first test: (somewhat excessive to run a USB fan, but that's what I had available on my desk at the time) and here:
Scoot.jpeg

using it 'in anger' in the paddock at Barcelona circuit recharging my scoot.
 
First time I see one from the shop in the UK rather than some questionable sources. I will look into that with a more talk of blackouts recently having one of those wouldn't hurt to be honest enough to power the fridge and a kettle.

What is the MG max output?
 
I have set mine up with Commando socket lead - reason being - if (perhaps when) - we have blackouts (in my case I am requested to cut down utilization by my supplier earlier this year - this was part an experiment to see what power usage could be turned down. We have been approached again to do the same for 4 hour blocks through the winter from November. Anyway - I have set up a 16A commando socket - on the outside of our home - to a double socket on the inside - core drilled through the wall and connected with 16A cabling. As I did not want to have to feed a thick cable through an open window. From the two sockets - I have 2 single extension leads - one feeds through to the office - and keeps the WiFi up and running - we have battery back up for this which has surge protection - so the extension leads feed the battery - so the power draw is kept consistent - as the car is keeping the batteries topped up and not have to cope with appliances coming on and off. We then Have another extension which feeds the TV - sound systems etc. (again through a back up battery) which keeps the load even for the benefit of the car. This likely seems a little indulgent (keeping the WiFi and the TV going). But actually we have a home battery - and although it cannot keep the whole house going during a blackout - it does keep the central heating boiler working and can keep all the lights on. This set up means we can respond the any request to cut down on usage - essentially experience a self impose blackout for a maximum of 4 hours - using free electric (we have solar which charges the home battery as well as our car) and as bonus receive a small feedback tariff for not using mains electric. All tested - and works as we expected it to - double impressed by the stats the car (MG4) is able to produce - when using it as a back-up power supply.
 
What is the MG max output?
It’s a little over 2 Kw’s, so a fast boil kettle and a fridge maybe pushing it a little bit !.
You can get a slightly smaller capacity kettle with a much smaller draw for about £20.
It’s bigger than the tiny travel kettles, but not full size.
About 3/4 size if that makes sense.
Some reports of people exceeding the recommend rating, which maybe okay for a short time frame, but not recommended over a long period of time I would suggest.
If you rely totally on electric to cook and are worried about power cuts etc, can I suggest you look at buying one of those £20 single gas ring camping stoves and a couple of gas canisters, to run it.
They come in a plastic case, so can be stored when not in use.
A cheap back up plan for £20.
At least you could use it to boil water for a hot drink and make a simple snack if the power does go down.
Then use the V2L cable to run the other important electric items in the house.
I have been giving this some thought over the last week and investigating what important items I can run from my V2L cable and then looking at other methods of providing some light and charging phones / computer etc.
I have two jumper packs that could be used to charge / power smaller items like tablets / lap top / phone chargers etc.
I have some trade rated rechargeable LED inspection lights that are powerful enough to light a very large room if needed.
A site radio that can be powered by cordless power tool batteries ( which I have a number of ).
We have a stored hot water tank, so that is of some benefit over a combi boiler in times like that.
Although ( hopefully ) these will not be necessary this winter, I always find it’s better to prepare now, rather than latter !.
I think owning an EV promotes this “Always Have A Back Up Plan” mind set 🤣.
Although very difficult to obtain right now, a smaller air fryer ( 1.5 Kw’s ) is an option for running from the V2L cable also and the average size microwave.
We all take electricity purely for granted, because it’s always there 24/7.
Only when it’s turned off, do we realise just how much we need it in our daily lives !.
The water and gas supplies are treated in the same disregarded fashion.
There is no shame in planning ahead a little I feel.
Fail to plan, then plan to fail !.
 
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[ Edit Coulomb: There are many other V2L threads, e.g. V2L, V2H, V2G - How does it work with MG EVs?, V2L - Useful?, DIY V2L, etc. Title-only search for V2L. ]

Does anyone know how to get hold of a Vehicle 2 Load (V2L) lead to use with the 2022 MG ZS EV Long Range? I am waiting on a response from MG UK but there doesn't seem to be much information available other than the fact the specification states the car has a Vehicle to Load capability at a maximum load of 2200 watts. The V2L capability is of little benefit unless you have a V2L cable to use it!
V2L Kit.jpeg

This is my V2L Kit ready for Brownouts etc. Adaptor from EV Cables, they have various Termination Sockets available. Combined with an RCD protected Camping Style socket & cable set from GoOutdoors. I have tested this on my Standard Range 2022 ZSEV & it works fine.
 
View attachment 12232
This is my V2L Kit ready for Brownouts etc. Adaptor from EV Cables, they have various Termination Sockets available. Combined with an RCD protected Camping Style socket & cable set from GoOutdoors. I have tested this on my Standard Range 2022 ZSEV & it works fine.
Nice set up !.
Although I can see that the supply is RCB protected.
I have a question 🙋🏻‍♂️:- Are the male / female blue socket & plug, on that short fly lead, suitably IP rated for outside use ?.
Not a criticism, just a genuine question.
Would there be any advantage of having a longer fly lead, then the connection point could be moved to place away from any bad weather conditions ?.
 
Longer the fly lead equals less protective cable?
Forget that it has the rcd at end of cable anyway so none of it is protected
 
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