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MG zs ev jacking points

Rex

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MG ZS EV
As the MG doesn't come with a spare tyre, the book does not have official jacking points.
So I would like to know if any one knows the correct points.
As tyre places can be a bit rough, ( in Australia anyway), I would like to make sure they jack the car, without any damage.
 
Solution
The problem is, there are no triangles showing, I suspect they're covered up by the plastic sill covers.
There are cut outs on the edge of the plastic sill covers where the chassis looks to join the sill, I suspect that is where they are. But if you use a jack there it will be resting on the plastic cover, I suspect it may damage it.
there is a section - or should be - in the owners manual.
 

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The problem is, there are no triangles showing, I suspect they're covered up by the plastic sill covers.
There are cut outs on the edge of the plastic sill covers where the chassis looks to join the sill, I suspect that is where they are. But if you use a jack there it will be resting on the plastic cover, I suspect it may damage it.
 
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Solution
I jacked mine up a couple of weeks ago without problem using the spare kit jack.
Follow the lower edge of the sill until where the plastic is slightly retracted and your can see about 4-5 mm of the (painted) sill. That's the jacking point it's about half a meter in from the wheel edge.
 
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I jacked mine up a couple of weeks ago without problem using the spare kit jack.
Follow the lower edge of the sill until where the plastic is slightly retracted and your can see about 4-5 mm of the (painted) sill. That's the jacking point it's about half a meter in from the wheel edge.
So it didn't crush the plastic ?
 
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Hi Guys, my most recent video () shows the jacking points at the 15:00 min mark and also the alternative points I used for the wheel removal and refit. Hope it helps. Cheers.

Very informative - thank you. Interesting that there’s a little servo on each brake caliper that applies the park brake. I wonder if this does both parking and auto-hold?
 
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The 'jacking points' are where the joint between inner and outer sills are not shrouded by the plastic sill cover. It may not be apparent that at these locations there are slight gaps between the inner and outer sill panels which presumably are weep holes to drain off any water that gets into the sill cavity.

It is therefore best to use some sort of buffer between jack and body to avoid the possibility of crushing and blocking these weep holes (I adapted a rubber moulding designed for trolley jacks to use with my scissor jack)
 
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The 'jacking points' are where the joint between inner and outer sills are not shrouded by the plastic sill cover. It may not be apparent that at these locations there are slight gaps between the inner and outer sill panels which presumably are weep holes to drain off any water that gets into the sill cavity.

It is therefore best to use some sort of buffer between jack and body to avoid the possibility of crushing and blocking these weep holes (I adapted a rubber moulding designed for trolley jacks to use with my scissor jack)
Something like this is useful on a trolley jack to protect the seam of the sill’s.

 
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Very informative - thank you. Interesting that there’s a little servo on each brake caliper that applies the park brake. I wonder if this does both parking and auto-hold?
Good question, I'm not sure. The auto hold feature doesn't seem to feel as aggressive when your using it as the electric handbrake although I guess software could control that and the servo motors used for both. Maybe someone can shed some light?
 
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my most recent video ... shows the jacking points at the 15:00 min mark and also the alternative points I used for the wheel removal and refit.
In your video, you indicated that when you jacked the back up with an ordinary jack, the wheel stayed on the ground and you implied that therefore you can't get the wheel off.

In a flat tyre situation, if you have a space-saver or full-sized spare wheel, how do you get the wheel off? The official spare wheel kit includes a standard jack, so it must be possible. Do you have to somehow force the wheel off the ground to remove it? Or just remove it despite the wheel being on the ground? How does that work for replacing the wheel afterwards, especially if the replacement is full sized?
 
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Hi Coulomb, great question. I'm assuming if you keep jacking it higher it would come off the ground and allow you to do a tyre change. Being a cross over/ SUV this needs to be reasonably high to get the wheel off the ground and the higher you go the more unstable the vehicle gets. This could be one of the reasons the vehicle doesn't come with the spare/jack as standard. Given I was in a workshop with a trolley jack I had better options available.

Apologies if you thought I was implying you cant get the wheel off at all but my observation was it's not as easy as you might think with the suspension travel and SUV style height, however it must be possible.

If you have the opportunity, have a test run with your ZS EV and share your experience with the Forum community. Cheers.
 
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If you have the opportunity, have a test run with your ZS EV and share your experience with the Forum community. Cheers.

I haven't got a MG ZS spacesaver kit but had purchased a separate spacesaver wheel and scissor jack and did indeed give them a 'test run' (admittedly on a concrete driveway rather than 'muddy edge of road' conditions!)

I'd purchased a jack which was allegedly designed for SUV's and it did indeed raise the wheel off the ground but I've either got old or the wheel is indeed one of the heaviest I've ever lifted and I can understand it feeling like it's anchored to the ground!

I've added a few blocks of wood to my kit as a useful tip is to drive the flat onto a block if that is possible to give the jack a start.
 
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Good question, I'm not sure. The auto hold feature doesn't seem to feel as aggressive when your using it as the electric handbrake although I guess software could control that and the servo motors used for both. Maybe someone can shed some light?
It could be controlled by the ABS ECU by applying pressure to all the brakes.
 
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I would have thought that it also incorporates a mechanical failsafe system in the event of power failure. On my car when on auto-hold for more than a couple of minutes the main parking brake comes on Automatically.
 
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Hi Guys, my most recent video () shows the jacking points at the 15:00 min mark and also the alternative points I used for the wheel removal and refit. Hope it helps. Cheers.

Thanks ECA, rear jacking information still relevant. Now looking for confirmation of best forward jacking points, as travel jacks don't spread the load like hoists. We bought a full-size spare for our MG ZS MY22 to travel our (often damaged) country roads... and will need to add chocks, jack, bar/brace, screw-driver (not trusting supplied plastic "tweezers"), etc
 
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