Recent content by Julian256

Yeah, I do a mix of 50kW DC charging (Osprey mainly), 7kW charging (mostly at Wycombe Retail Park cos it's 14p/kWh) and granny charging at home. Had very few problems with DC charging, I've only had to pull the release cord a couple of times.

No, my car doesn't do that. No software updates were applied to my car as part of my 1-year service, so it behaves the same way it did in December 2021 when I took delivery. I'm now thinking - if I don't ask for software updates, I probably won't get software updates (unless it's part of a recall).

My ZS EV Trophy (delivered December 2021) can do V2L in ready mode or stop mode. In ready mode, the 12V battery is charged, but the DRLs are on and the car cannot be locked. In stop mode, the DRLs are off and the car can be locked, but the 12V battery isn't charged and will go flat after a few...

Yes, apparently the 12V battery starts to discharge after a couple of hours of V2L. Using the app to check the vehicle status appears to get the 12V battery charging again - so do this every couple of hours. EDIT: Using the app seems to tell the car that the 12V battery is low and can actually...

James at EVcables contacted me to say they are now connecting CP to PE (PE=Ground) in addition to the 470 ohm resistor between PP and PE (as in Eclectic's diagram above). It seems that some newer MGs don't like having CP disconnected (floating).

OK, that makes sense :)

Hey Stefan In a previous post, you said: Do you mean that you connected the V2L output from the car to your house, in parallel with grid mains? Since these AC sources are not phase synchronised, I would expect this to damage the inverter in your car. I'm curious to know if this is what you meant.

The car looks at the resistance between PP and PE to determine that a discharge cable is connected. It doesn't seem to care about CP, so you can leave CP disconnected or tie it to PE, it doesn't matter.

Interesting. I've noticed that the V2L inverter does some ground fault detection. If you pass some line (phase) current to ground, the inverter will switch off the 220V. It will try 3 times (with about 10 seconds between each try), then give up completely.

Wow, 3.5kW. You're braver than I was :)

When I had the flat 12v battery (after that 15 hour V2L session), the door locks still worked (sounded a bit sluggish) but the Start/Stop button didn't do anything. I now keep a LiFePO4 jump starter in the car as a flat 12v battery completely disables the car. The jump starter was £45 from Lidl.

Some observations on this thread: 1. I also had a flat 12v battery after a long V2L session (about 15 hours). However, after a shorter V2L session, the 12V battery was OK. It looks like the 12v battery is being charged during V2L, but maybe this times out after a period of time. 2. The V2L...

The 2.2kW figure sounds suspiciously like 220V multiplied by 10A - 10A being a safe current to put through a 13A fuse for long periods. I would imagine the inverter has an overpower cutout, but I wasn't willing to push it that far to test it. The inverter does get warm over time - I ran the V2L...

Today I connected a couple of heaters to my ZS EV using a V2L cable. I successfully pulled 3kW for 10 or 15 minutes :)

Certainly a lithium jump starter is an essential accessory to keep in the car. If the 12v battery goes flat, the car becomes a 2-ton road block. The LiFePO4 units are probably best as you can leave them charged to 100% without worry.