MG4 V2L cable

What resistor value is in your V2L cable? (The value dictates a) the type of cable, and b) the discharge capacity if a V2L cable).
 
What resistor value is in your V2L cable? (The value dictates a) the type of cable, and b) the discharge capacity if a V2L cable).
IMG_20230202_192950.jpg

I can't see the resistor, it has rubber coat over it. It also has a thermal switch in line with the resistor, seki st-22 k7 95c.
 
Did you have the car air con on at the same time? - as this draws up to 3kw - hence I’ve seen 5.1kw on the in car display before! - but have not had it cut out to date.
 
Can you check the wiring inside those plugs? Has one of the wires become loose and are they wired up correctly?
Both sauna and dryer are sealed plugs so can't check the wiring.

I did a few more tests this morning. Plugged in the 1400W dyson and a 2kW heater and they both ran fine.

Went back to the sauna and unplugged all the individual infrared heaters. Plugged in the main and the power stayed on, lights and control panel working. Started plugging in the heaters (heaters switched off) and when the fourth one was plugged in the power cut out. Reset everything, went back to three heaters plugged in, power still on, switched sauna on and power cut out. Probably only pulling 1kW.

I then went to try it on my boys computers. Monitors plugged in okay, still power, plugged in the PC and power cut, PC wasn't even on.

Just tested the resistor with a meter 430 ohm.
 
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Have a look at this thread it mention the resistor on #55
 
Did you have the car air con on at the same time? - as this draws up to 3kw - hence I’ve seen 5.1kw on the in car display before! - but have not had it cut out to date.
Nope, made sure it was off from the start.

Have a look at this thread it mention the resistor on #55
When the cable is plugged in it's recognised by the car as a discharge cable so I think the resistor (430 I think) is doing it's job. I'm wondering about the 'thermal switch' spoiling things.

I think this relates to whether CP or PP is left unconnected versus being earthed from the thread I was reading. I forget which way round it was
This cable has resistor between PP and PE which is correct I believe. There is no connection onto the CP terminal.
 
When the cable is plugged in it's recognised by the car as a discharge cable so I think the resistor (430 I think) is doing it's job. I'm wondering about the 'thermal switch' spoiling things.

... are you sure its a 430 ohm, mine is a 470 ohm.


I just followed this Vehicle to Load (V2L) - Any Information or First Hand Experiences? - same quality than (maybe even better than) my ohme pro system wall box system - good thick cable also, no issues in pulling 2.4 kw (not gone above, as can feel a slight warmth on the cable after a few hrs, carefully checking whilst in house), albeit during the UK winter.
 
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... the other thing on Toms Shed channel...




... i think it was this video - had had something similar with one of his home devices on the MG4
 
Sounds similar, although he says it trips after a minute or so whereas if I plug any of the devices I mention it goes straight away. Shame he didn't solve it or find out what causes it.
I think I might order one of those cheap adapters to test. Should tell me whether it's the car or the lead. In fact I remember he changed from an adapter to a DIY lead, I wonder if the printer caused the fault on both.

Just done another test after reading the comments on that video.

I had a surge protection extension so set that up. With the car happy 'discharging' I plugged the sauna into a switched OFF socket on the surge extension. Immediately cut the power. So not only is the sauna itself switched off (just the control panel and light come on in this state) but the socket it was connecting to was OFF and it still cut the power. I think I'm out now and will just return the cable and give up.
 
Sorry if this question has already been asked, but what is the individual rating of both the sauna and dryer ?.
A discharge level of just over 2.1 Kw’s is what is recommended by MG via a good quality V2L cable.
I know other owners have pulled more than this, by using it to fast boil an electric kettle.
But remember this higher recommended demand is only over a very brief time scale.
Running the sauna and the dryer maybe a higher load than the car is happy with ?.
 
Sorry if this question has already been asked, but what is the individual rating of both the sauna and dryer ?.
A discharge level of just over 2.1 Kw’s is what is recommended by MG via a good quality V2L cable.
I know other owners have pulled more than this, by using it to fast boil an electric kettle.
But remember this higher recommended demand is only over a very brief time scale.
Running the sauna and the dryer maybe a higher load than the car is happy with ?.
It's not even running them though, it trips the power out as soon as the appliances are plugged in, they're not on and pulling power at that point.
 
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The MG4 with 3 phase 11kw charger ( 16A/phase) is able to load at 7kW ( 32A) using single phase loading. To make this possible it seems the MG4 charger is made bi-directional able to support 32A current. When the contacts close a theoretical discharge current of 32A is made possible. If buying or making a decharging cable I advise to buy a 32A cable ( 6mm²) or include a 10 or 16A fuse. Type 2 connectors are available at less than $30 (Aliexpress) and the difference between 16 or 32A is a few dollars. Adding a ~420 Ohm resistor will make it suitable for MG V2L. In practice it has been shown it is possible to use 7kW V2L using a MG4, a huge added value if using a home island solar panel system. Type 2 Car discharge heads with 16A UK or EU socket are available at less $40. I do not know if they are fused or and have the correct resistor for MG V2L
 
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