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KERS!

RoadUser

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Just a general observation, we hear people driving around usually in Kers3, I usually drive around in Kers2 and normal mode, but recently for a few days was driving in Kers1 instead, I noticed the m/kwh is around .5 better on usual routes which is a mix of motorway and in town driving. Has anyone else come across this as well where Kers1 seems to be better overall than other Kers modes? Thanks
 
Are we concluding therefore that KERS is continually applying deceleration in normal driving? I doubt that...
 
Are we concluding therefore that KERS is continually applying deceleration in normal driving? I doubt that...
Just every time you let off the accelerator. You have to judge whether the regen gained versus the speed lost is worth it. Kers 3 is too aggressive out of town so I generally drive in Kers 2, I live/work in a very hilly area so that works best for me.
 
A lot of people charge kers for different road conditions, I can't be bothered with that and always flick into k3 and eco. I just feather the accelerator and don't jump off it.
I'm one of those, a fiddler. :D There is no right or wrong way, it's whatever suits yourself and you feel good with.
Maybe because on the pre-facelift as there is no having to go into the infotainment for anything, KERS/MODE are the only things I can fiddle with, so I do. I find feathering the throttle though in K3 not so good on gentle downhill slopes as switching to 1 and coasting, then practicing the art of gradually increasing to 2 and then 3 as I need to come to a halt at the bottom.
Oh I do like a game.
 
I'm one of those, a fiddler. :D There is no right or wrong way, it's whatever suits yourself and you feel good with.
Maybe because on the pre-facelift as there is no having to go into the infotainment for anything, KERS/MODE are the only things I can fiddle with, so I do. I find feathering the throttle though in K3 not so good on gentle downhill slopes as switching to 1 and coasting, then practicing the art of gradually increasing to 2 and then 3 as I need to come to a halt at the bottom.
Oh I do like a game.
That's more or less what I do now . It was a lot easier on the last car ( Hyundai Ioniq ) which had paddles on the steering column . I do miss that but it's no big thing :)
 
Just a general observation, we hear people driving around usually in Kers3, I usually drive around in Kers2 and normal mode, but recently for a few days was driving in Kers1 instead, I noticed the m/kwh is around .5 better on usual routes which is a mix of motorway and in town driving. Has anyone else come across this as well where Kers1 seems to be better overall than other Kers modes? Thanks
The KERS 1 seems a little more forgiving on highways. I mostly use 3 and a little sensivity on the accelerator-panel in cities and heavy traffic on highways.
 
Just a general observation, we hear people driving around usually in Kers3, I usually drive around in Kers2 and normal mode, but recently for a few days was driving in Kers1 instead, I noticed the m/kwh is around .5 better on usual routes which is a mix of motorway and in town driving. Has anyone else come across this as well where Kers1 seems to be better overall than other Kers modes? Thanks
I have found that if for instance you have the cruise control set on 40mph and you accelerate up above that set speed (eg. up to 60mph) and take your foot off the accelerator it will coast with no regen, virtually free wheeling until your speed drops to the set cruise control speed which can be quite nice going down hill.
 
It's interesting to me that the most efficient EVs on the road (Tesla) don't have a KERS setting, but fix the regen at maximum (one-pedal driving). They've done extensive research on this and of course have the largest data pool of any EV company (all Tesla cars report telemetry, like formula 1 cars). Max. regen should be the most efficient driving mode, as you're recovering as much of the kenetic energy you've put into the car as possible, as you slow down (another reason why Tesla have no maintenance schedule - their brakes just don't wear out!). The key to unlocking this efficiency is driving style - it's essential to develop a light and sensitive foot, which is able to balance the car between accelleration and decelleration - keeping that "dead band" under your foot as you cruise, or gradually decellerate (coast).

My first car was an old Triumph 1300 back when I'd just passed my test, and I installed a vacuum guage (hi tech for the time!!) which displayed manifold vacuum on the dashboard. The trick was to keep the vacuum as high as possible as you cruise - this developed in me a very light foot, as I was continuously applying the very minimum power to maintain cruise speed. All my cars since have returned model-leading fuel consumption, including my electric cars (with KERS set to max).

If you develop this light foot, max regen (KERS) will always give you the greatest efficiency (as proven by Tesla).
 
It's interesting to me that the most efficient EVs on the road (Tesla) don't have a KERS setting, but fix the regen at maximum (one-pedal driving). They've done extensive research on this and of course have the largest data pool of any EV company (all Tesla cars report telemetry, like formula 1 cars). Max. regen should be the most efficient driving mode, as you're recovering as much of the kenetic energy you've put into the car as possible, as you slow down (another reason why Tesla have no maintenance schedule - their brakes just don't wear out!). The key to unlocking this efficiency is driving style - it's essential to develop a light and sensitive foot, which is able to balance the car between accelleration and decelleration - keeping that "dead band" under your foot as you cruise, or gradually decellerate (coast).

My first car was an old Triumph 1300 back when I'd just passed my test, and I installed a vacuum guage (hi tech for the time!!) which displayed manifold vacuum on the dashboard. The trick was to keep the vacuum as high as possible as you cruise - this developed in me a very light foot, as I was continuously applying the very minimum power to maintain cruise speed. All my cars since have returned model-leading fuel consumption, including my electric cars (with KERS set to max).

If you develop this light foot, max regen (KERS) will always give you the greatest efficiency (as proven by Tesla).
Absolutely correct, the accelerator is not an on / off switch, good anticipation and observations to minimise change of speed are key to good fuel consumption. My i3 I have managed an average over 5 years of 5.4 Miles / kWh, my previous car to the i3 a 4.4 litre TDV8 Range Rover I used to manage 43 mpg on a regular 220 mile trip to Bournemoth with the exact same techniques.
 
Are we concluding therefore that KERS is continually applying deceleration in normal driving? I doubt that...
My ZS does. Try dropping the kers down a level as you're applying a very light acceleration, you'll feel the car surge forward very slightly.
 
I'm not convinced. My test was done by driving on a nice level bit of road, stick it on cruise control, and change the KERS setting while watching the needle. There was no perceptible change on the needle, and I tried it at various speeds.

I really can't imagine they'd have the forward motion being slugged by KERS as long as the motor is in use (i.e. you aren't coasting or braking).
 
Over the last 1070 miles I have averaged 4.3mpk which is not as good as others posted here but it did include a trip to Devon and back with a fair bit of motorway driving.
MG5 LR pre facelift.
 
I'm assuming others are using their cars on local, relatively short journeys but over a longer period than me. My MG5 LR pre face-lift usually returns c3.6 mpkwh on a 400 mile weekly commute predominantly motorway between Bristol and Gloucester
 
My ZS does. Try dropping the kers down a level as you're applying a very light acceleration, you'll feel the car surge forward very slightly.
EV power-trains are complex computer-controlled servo systems. Changing a major parameter when in motion is bound to cause a noticable hiccup as the servo system re-adjusts. It certainly doesn't follow that lower regen settings are somehow more efficient. They're not.
 
EV power-trains are complex computer-controlled servo systems. Changing a major parameter when in motion is bound to cause a noticable hiccup as the servo system re-adjusts. It certainly doesn't follow that lower regen settings are somehow more efficient. They're not.
It is possible that efficiency gains are witnessed if the driver is pumping the accelerator to maintain a speed rather than slightly more or slightly less. I have a friend that drives like this, it nearly drives me crazy. The control system I agree with you 100%, nothing to be gained by the KERS lower settings, in fact, quite the opposite.
 
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