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Home Charger

Funny you say that my neighbour has a 100amp fuse so you can't go on fuse size only real way to see is if you or your neighbour has 2 cables going to your fuse
Indeed. Attached is a picture I sent to Ohme (they requested it) and if I were on a looped connection, there would be two black wires going into the fuse at the bottom. I have one, so not looped.

20220106_151746.jpg
 
The sticker rating on the DNO's main cut out fuse is not a 100% guarantee of the size of the fuse contained in the casing as @Jomarkh correctly points out.
It SHOULD be !.
After speaking to a DNO guy, who did a fuse upgrade at my neighbours house.
He said upgrading the cut out fuse from 60 Amp's to 80 Amp's is normally a five minute job, as the both fuses are of the same size in their dimensions.
For this reason the upgrade is usually FOC.
But to upgrade to a 100 Amp fuse is mainly requires the main "Fuse Head" to be replaced first as the 100 amp fuse is much larger in it's dimensions.
This means disconnecting the main incoming conductor from the overhead or under ground supply to the house, to replace the head / fuse carrier.
Running on a 60 Amp fuse does not mean you are on a shared supply either.
My house was built in 1982 at it was fitted with a 60 Amp main cut out fuse by the DNO.
We are not on a looped system for sure !.
 
Having my Ohme Charger fitted tomorrow. We are having to have our main fuse upgraded to 80A. House was built 1960. The upgrade isn't happening until a day after the charger is fitted. Glad to heat its normally a 5 min job.
 
Getting a OHME home pro fitted Feb 3rd the installer told me they didn't have the man power /time to dig a trench to run the cable from house to drive (10 metres) so I had to do it myself. Was very good exercise at least
 
Having my Ohme Charger fitted tomorrow. We are having to have our main fuse upgraded to 80A. House was built 1960. The upgrade isn't happening until a day after the charger is fitted. Glad to heat its normally a 5 min job.
Yeah - With H&S precautions, they will pull the main carriage and split the case that is usually held with one screw.
Remove the 60 Amp fuse and replace it with the new 80 Amp carriage and refit - Done !.
Should only take about 5 minutes in normal conditions.
100 Amp upgrade is more involved, but they did my neighbours in about 20 minutes.
The incoming cable a CU was in the integral garage.
 
Thanks mine has a 100amp fuse. So that means that I am not looped😃👍🏻
No necessarily. I had a 100 amp main fuse but the supply came to our house then looped to next door. The way to check is be looking at the cables going in to the meter box. If there are 2 cables from the ground to the meter box you are looping your neighbour. If there is only one cable, doesn't mean the supply isn't looped from either of your neighbours.

My neighbour had a zappi installed without knowing his supply came from the loop at our house. Think the zappy can load balance anyway. When I took my photos for the smart home charge survey, they picked up on it immediately. 2 months later Western Power Distribution dug up the road and my neighbour's drive and unlooped us free of charge.
 
I went for Wallbox Pulse Pro. I would like to have something that is controlled from WiFi rather than SIM card as our mobile coverage is not great. also, it worries me that Ohme will charge eventually per month. Similar to others, just the order number was enough for the installers (I have found them via Rightcharge). Looped supply as well, but UK Power Networks guys established that ours was already 80 so shouldn't be a problem. I have decided against the digging to upgrade to 100.
 
You need at leased a 80amp fuse before anyone will fit a charger.
Mine was 60A when Pod Point fitted my charger in July 2020. I have had it upgraded to 100A since then though.
The Pod Point charger has an automatic limiter that reduces the output to the charger when there are high loads on in the house, so a 60A fuse was no problem.
 
You need at leased a 80amp fuse before anyone will fit a charger.
Advisable, but not totally necessary.
I have been running on a 60 Amp DNO cut out fuse for over five years now.
It depends on what other electrical loads you intend to pull at the same time as the wall box.
If you are charging on a cheaper rate overnight tariff and have no other heavy load demands, then a 60 Amp will do the job.
If you intend to charge on a flat rate tariff and wish to use your induction hob and electric shower at the same time, you will definitely need an upgrade to a 100 amp cut out and help with your direct debit payments 🤣.
A lot will depend on when your house was built, our house and the majority of our street, where all set up with 60 Amp cut out’s.
The house was built in 1981 and 60 Amps was fine back in the day.
Now many families have high demand load items, like EV’s / high wattage electric showers / induction hobs etc.
These where a “Pipe Dream” back in the day !.
 
I have ordered a SR Trophy Connect from my work scheme, they use Tusker. Currently driving a Ford Focus on the scheme, with new car due about 1st July.
Tusker sent me a link to Charged EV, they are a partner company, and I filled out the application form for the new Ohme charger, and provided photos and info.
They phoned me today saying everything is fine but, before they can progress the order, I need to contact my energy provider, Octopus, and get them to fit an isolation switch.

I have no idea what this would cost, and with time running out, I really need both grants to be able to pay for the charger install.

I may have to manage with the granny charger. I don’t do a lot of distance driving so maybe I should just use that anyway?
 
I have ordered a SR Trophy Connect from my work scheme, they use Tusker. Currently driving a Ford Focus on the scheme, with new car due about 1st July.
Tusker sent me a link to Charged EV, they are a partner company, and I filled out the application form for the new Ohme charger, and provided photos and info.
They phoned me today saying everything is fine but, before they can progress the order, I need to contact my energy provider, Octopus, and get them to fit an isolation switch.

I have no idea what this would cost, and with time running out, I really need both grants to be able to pay for the charger install.

I may have to manage with the granny charger. I don’t do a lot of distance driving so maybe I should just use that anyway?
When I had my Pod-Point fitted, the installer fitted the isolation switch. It seems odd that Charged EV don't fit an isolation switch. I would contact a local electrician and ask their advice.

And by the way, I very rarely use my Pod-Point charger as I mainly do local mileage and the granny charger fits the bill.
 
They phoned me today saying everything is fine but, before they can progress the order, I need to contact my energy provider, Octopus, and get them to fit an isolation switch.
What size main cut-out fuse are you running on ???.
It could be either a 60 / 80 / 100 Amp load rating.
There will be a sticker on the size of the main cut-out fuse cartridge.
Contact your DNO and explain that you have an EV on it's way and that your EV installer has requested that you urgently would like either your cut-out fuse checking / upgrading ( If it is lower than 100 Amps ) AND while upgrading the fuse, could they please install a 100amp double pole isolator switch, and upgrade the size of the meter tails to accommodate the higher load.
Having a double pole isolator switch installed "in-line" with the meter tails, makes isolating the complete supply to your C.U. ( Fuse Box ) as quick as throwing a light switch.
Much safer for the EV installer or any future electrical work to take place.
The main cut-out fuse is sealed with a lead / wire seal and is the DNO property.
It should only be pulled by them !.
Although in many cases, this seal has been broken for safe isolation process by certified sparks.
Contact your DNO.
 
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