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Check out this video explaining it: And here is a guy doing it the cheap way:

I don't think that will help you as the stock amp needs to sense an impedance in the range of a speaker. This one does the trick: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC1I/AudioControl-LC1i.html?tp=2001 (I bought the LC2iPro)

The importing thing is that your line-out converter has selectable pre-load for 20 or 50 ohms. It doesn't look like your amp will convert 2 ch to 4 ch, so here is what I think you should do: 1. run the front speaker signal to your LOC 2. buy two RCA Y-cables and connect them to the LOC output...

I soldered on the extensions that came with the new speakers to the existing tweeter cables. For colors, this conversion overview might help. On the right side you have "standard" wiring colors, and on the left side colors for MG4.

I'm running the amp just from the front outputs. The amplifier does the 2ch to 4ch upscale. It has the effect that the rear speakers also get a full-range signal. In my setup, this is a benefit. I was worried that the front outputs might be high pass filtered but I tested it with a series of...

Yes, just use the existing cabling, but you need to cut off the stock connectors and do some soldering. You need the same type of adapter for the back door. Don't buy what I did. I guess that something like this here will fit: It has the configuration with the three outer holes and a height of...

I made a little insert in the tweeter covers for the wire and used nano-tape to place them. The original speaker rings are 34 mm. Ideally, You want to find an adapter with this height and three mounting holes. Alternatively, find an adapter of less height and add a spacing ring. Bonus...

I wasn't able to find any connectors, so I just cut off the connectors and soldered on the extension cable that came with the Pioneers. Easy enough. The speaker mount adapters I bought were these: They didn't fit so I ended up cutting them in half and mounted them on top of the connectors that...

Things are going well. I had to install an LC2iPro because the head unit won't output speaker signal unless it senses resistance similar to speakers. So here is the overview of the end result: Whenever you upgrade stuff, a new spot becomes the annoying bottleneck. I realized I had to optimize...

Found a much better place to get the power cable through the firewall. It is in the driver's side and you can simply push a steel wire through as shown on the image. Inside the cabin, you can reach the steel wire without removing any panels. Tape the power wire to the steel wire and pull from...

You can't find a harness for the MG4 anywhere, so there is no way around cutting the speaker wires and solder on extensions on both ends. Yes, I will do that when I'm done. I looked for it. Typically that wire is blue. There are two blue wires coming out of the head unit. I tried both, but one...

My amp is a Pioneer GM D1004. It is also designed to automatically detect the speaker line out from the head unit. The problem is that the head unit will not output anything if the resistance is much higher than a speaker. I think you will have the same problem as I have. I just ordered a LC2i...

Okay, this is not easy. I got my new amplifier, prepared all wires, and installed it, and ... nothing! I can get it to work if I run the speaker output directly to the speakers and then move the speaker outputs to the amplifier. Was driving me nuts, but I have now learned that that is a thing...

Planning to put my amp behind the glovebox under the head unit. I am by no means an expert. Just watched a ton of youtube videos and it is generally stated that if you can find a fuse with a higher rating it should work. Normally amplifiers draw a lot of power and should go to the battery...

Similar to the amp I'm fitting. Instead of going to the battery, you could also consider using a fuse power thief from the cabin fuse box. Only, you have to find a fuse rated higher than 15 amps. The two options are Driver seat module (30 amps) or Infotainment (20 amps).

Please do - thanks! That will come in handy when installing the amp because that's gonna involve a lot more wires.

I finally got the sub installed. That wasn't easy at all. I went through a rubber gasket on the right side to get power from the 12V battery. Unfortunately, the gasket popped out of its insert and I haven't managed to get it back in. The harness with the wires for the head unit is apparently an...

Thanks a lot, guys. That is just super helpful what you are doing here. I do recognize some of the wires from what I just did on the speakers.

I'm stuck! I can't find the head unit. Does anyone have good ideas?

On the old tweeters, the capacitor/crossover is soldered onto the tweeter. On the new one it is bit down the supplied wire, so essentially, it is just about using the same wires. See post #14.