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The last 20% of charging are the most stressful for a battery. That is true even for LFP chemistry, but to a lesser degree than for NMC. I make it a habit to not plug the car in if the battery is above 75-80% when I get home (unless I know I have a long trip coming up the next day). Anything...

Unless you start with 10% before the mountains, it's not going to be a big deal. You will use some more battery than usual on the incline, but will get quite a bit back on the way back down.

I would really recommend against that. The tyre fix kit is for emergencies to allow you to limp the car to a shop. It will a) not last and b) gunk up the inside of the tyre, making a proper repair or replacement (which will be required no matter what) more difficult and expensive.

Yes, my EVCC (not the CCU!) was swapped from 11408732 to 11505199 for free, but only after a lot of back and forth with MG headquarters. See this thread for more details: MG ZS missing V2L function

Your ZS may not have functioning V2L. See this thread: MG ZS missing V2L function

Please be aware that a 11kW (3x16A) cable will only charge the ZS at 3.6kW. You need either a 1 phase 7kW cable (1x32A) or a 22kW cable (3x32A) to charge at max speed on AC.

There is also an embossed image of a valve next to the larger slot.

The update zip file is the same, you just get a different PDF depending on your choice. I guess the UI differs between Luxury and Comfort, because Comfort doesn't have the connected features. The german "Luxury" trim is more or less equivalent to the UK's "Trophy Connect".

That is a third-party webpage, and it is incorrect. It also claims 100kW CCS charging power, which is also incorrect.

The battery heating system is not a heat pump. Heat pumps are for the climate control system, as a (more efficient, but more expensive) alternative to the electric heating elements.

Are you sure? I never heard of any model of the ZS EV having a heat pump.

It's not just a good idea. If you don't do it, the car will give a somewhat oblique message about how you "did not meet the conditions for upgrade" and refuse to even start the process.

The update zip is the same for everybody. The VIN is only used to gate off the download. Make sure to use a known good 32GB USB drive, format it freshly with exFAT and put the "maps" folder from the zip in the root of the drive. Also, as I've learned, make sure to put the car in "Ready" mode...

Fast chargers (aka DC chargers or CCS chargers) have the cable permanently attached to the charging point, since they have very specific demands and are often actively cooled. What you may want is a Type2 cable to be able to use AC chargers on the road. Just be aware that those are not really...

The car generally won't let you lock the key inside the car. The door will refuse to lock by button (and honk at you) if the key is still inside. (I imagine this is not fool-proof, but nice to know the car tries to look out for you.)

What's wrong with keeping it in your pocket? That's what I do. In the rare case I need to keep it in the car itself, it goes into the cup holder.

I don't remember the infotainment ever freezing on me. The few times I had to reset it was because it refused to connect to Android Auto for some reason. But for me it will reset on its own regularly after locking the car for a few minutes.

The 12V battery is charged from the HV battery as long as the car is on ("Ready"). Kinda like the 12V battery in an ICE car is charged from the alternator while the engine is running.

Are you sure you held the button long enough? You have to keep it pressed until the infotainment reboots, which can take 10 seconds or more.

There isn't really much point to the button. You can just walk up to the car and open the boot, as long as you have the key fob in your pocket. This will also not unlock the rest of car and re-lock the boot upon closing it. I guess it could be useful if you are a few meters away and want to...