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OK, thanks. Sounds like the same place as mine. It's a but annoying that there doesn't seem to be a live that switches on when the car is unlocked. Mine is mounted right in the middle-top of the rear. The camera gets a perfectly good view. You get a bit of the spoiler in the top corners, but...

Out of interest, which fuse did you use for the switched 12v? Is it one of the ones that don’t actually become live until you sit in the drivers seat, rather than unlock the car?

5A fuses only for me. 20A is excessive for a couple of USB devices. I wouldn’t imagine they’re drawing more than 2A or so

I think your best bet would be to use the same fuse as the dashcam. Since it’s dedicated for your use, and we know it’s switched on when the car comes on. This is what I have done too. Just crimp the 2 cables into the piggyback

Crap.. Yes :( The switched one is one of the 3 pin fuses https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384968809759?var=652840968969 Totally forgot about the different sizes, sorry! Looks like they're out of the 5A ones

The only plastic I took off was on the side of the dashboard next to the fuses, and the front part of that. The trims along the pillars etc, I managed to push the wires into the sides of with the little plastic tool you get with the camera, without removing them

That's the same kit I have. I believe it works if it's just connected to the switched live.. Worst case you could wire both into the same one I guess. For the piggyback, I got this pack from Amazon: It's the Micro ones that you need. Shouldn't need anything else

I got paranoid and lowered the treshold on the dashcam last night to 12.4v. When I went out this morning, the dashcam had turned itself off. So at least I know it's protecting the battery voltage :) I dont really know what a safe threshold is for the battery. When I checked the app it was...

Since it’s a USB device, it’s unlikely to be pulling much. I doubt any more than 1.5A, and even that seems a lot for what it’s doing. A coupe of days at least I would hope. I’m at 12.6V now and 49% in the HV battery. Will see what it says in the morning. Hopefully exactly the same, and it’ll...

It’s part of the hardwire kit for the camera. You can choose at what voltage it shuts off. There’s a little box that the wires go into before the USB lead

Parking mode on the dashcam. Does 10 fps when the car is parked

Hi. I’ve finally got the fuse. Ended up putting the “switched” one into its own socket - F46, which is unused by default. The permanent live is in F21. From my testing, the switched fuses only become live once the car turns on properly, which is when it detects a driver in the seat and the...

Oh yeah, the fuse slots are very tight.. I had to cut off a decent amount of plastic on either side of my piggyback fuses! Assume you've gone for one that just comes on/off with the car and not got one that records when the car is parked?

That’s the hope. I’m waiting on the piggyback fuse in the post so I can confirm. I’m hoping to hook into the door switch if I can for my lights too. Will report back if I leave luck, and also whether the fuse is the right one.

Thanks. It may well be fine. But to be honest I prefer they turn off instantly when the car is locked, rather than when the car feels like it :) don’t want to risk draining more than necessary, since my LEDs are on the same fuse, I don’t want power them if not needed. There’ve been too many...

Yep, will do I got some lights working if you want to see those in the meantime 😎 And more on topic, here’s where I’m planning to wire into

Yep. I went off the photo on the first page from the dashcams installer. From my test, that row of fuses doesn’t turn off when you lock the door, which is what I want it to do. I left it for 15 mins afterwards and it was still powering the LED strips that I had pulling power from those fuses. So...

Yes. That’s exactly what I’ve got. I have a micro fuse piggyback which will be the constant live, and then I’m going to get one of the 3 pin ones like you pictures to piggy back off the USB port fuse, which we know turns off straight away after locking the car. The above kit all works just...

I’ve just done this myself using the same fuse locations (on a Trophy). Can confirm that the “switched” fuses do not appear to power off. They appear to be permanent live also. Left the car for 15 mins after locking and walking away (I have some LEDs off the same fuse, and the lights were still...

Hmmm. Interesting. The ones from the photo in this thread look like 2 pin fuses. I’m confused o_O