Throttle control instead of cruise control.

[Kieron101]

Whilst driving on motorways, I often use cruise control. But I think I’d like to be able to set the power use instead. For instance, set the power at 10, if I’m at a speed I’m happy with, then I’ll obviously go a bit slower up hill and faster downhill. I’d also like to be able to set it to zero for long descents, not neutral, but saving me holding the accelerator there. What do you think?

 

[hewguy]

Kieron , Just set the cruise control so you do not go faster or slower on hills, I find that frustrating when I am travelling a speed comfortably behind a car, then it slows on the up hills, and speeds on the downs, I assume the car does not have cruise, it is more relaxing on long journey , and much more economical to use cruise, with my auto pilot now it will be more tolerable

 

[Kieron101]

I’m thinking the opposite, that cruise control isn’t the best for economy.

 

[m4rmite]

I’m thinking the opposite, that cruise control isn’t the best for economy.

In an ice car cruise is far more fuel efficient, i can't see an ev being any different personally.

 

[Dt99idr]

Like any tool, it can be better or it can be worse. Cc can either force you to continue driving fast it you set it to 80 (killing your efficiency) or it can help you to drive at an efficient speed. I'd you naturally have a heavy right foot.
However CC can't be as efficient as a human, simply because it can only react to the situation now, it can't look at what is about to happen. I.e. a human driver approaching a down hill section can reduce speed on approach to the hill to then recover that speed on the down hill section. Cc won't do that, which in an ice will kill your efficiency as the Cc has to break more on the downhill section, with regeneration the cost isn't so high for a bev, and personally I can't be bothered to chase the marginal gains....

 

[Petriix]

Like any tool, it can be better or it can be worse. Cc can either force you to continue driving fast it you set it to 80 (killing your efficiency) or it can help you to drive at an efficient speed. I'd you naturally have a heavy right foot.
However CC can't be as efficient as a human, simply because it can only react to the situation now, it can't look at what is about to happen. I.e. a human driver approaching a down hill section can reduce speed on approach to the hill to then recover that speed on the down hill section. Cc won't do that, which in an ice will kill your efficiency as the Cc has to break more on the downhill section, with regeneration the cost isn't so high for a bev, and personally I can't be bothered to chase the marginal gains....

Just because you can't personally be bothered doesn't mean it's a bad idea. A constant power output would likely be significantly more efficient than a constant speed. I'd suggest a speed limiter would be an important addition to any such system.

 

[Dt99idr]

Just because you can't personally be bothered doesn't mean it's a bad idea. A constant power output would likely be significantly more efficient than a constant speed. I'd suggest a speed limiter would be an important addition to any such system.

Oh, I agree that constant power would be more efficient, absolutely agree. As you say would need a speed limiter- some idiot would set it to 100 !

 

[Kieron101]

Just because you can't personally be bothered doesn't mean it's a bad idea. A constant power output would likely be significantly more efficient than a constant speed. I'd suggest a speed limiter would be an important addition

Just because you can't personally be bothered doesn't mean it's a bad idea. A constant power output would likely be significantly more efficient than a constant speed. I'd suggest a speed limiter would be an important addition to any such system.

That’s exactly what I’m thinking.

 

[Cocijo]

I think that being able to limit the power output to say 25% would give good overall range. You would need to be aware of the reduced power and be able to switch off if needed, but it would mean that instead of controlling in with your right foot the output would be limited automatically.

 

[Chrispydoc]

I use cruise control occasionally.....but get the distinct impression that I get better range by driving carefully, which is only really important on long trips of course......I do a regular one of 155 miles and usually end up with over 20 miles "in the tank"....In fact I will being doing that very trip again in a weeks time.

 

[Petriix]

I use cruise control occasionally.....but get the distinct impression that I get better range by driving carefully, which is only really important on long trips of course......I do a regular one of 155 miles and usually end up with over 20 miles "in the tank"....In fact I will being doing that very trip again in a weeks time.

You definitely get better range by driving dynamically rather than at a constant speed. It's all about minimising lost energy: avoid unnecessary changes in power by planning ahead; avoid air resistance by driving slower and/or following big vehicles. Sometimes it's more efficient to drive faster in order to follow a van rather than go slower in the open air.

Cruise control is very blunt: using unnecessary power when you are approaching a bottleneck or on an uphill incline and slowing you where you might benefit from a little extra momentum. Adaptive cruise is better when following another vehicle because it maintains a gap rather than a speed, but still has the same issues when on the open road.

As ever it comes down to how much you can be bothered to micromanage things for diminishing rewards. I tend to err on the side of overcomplication because I enjoy it.

 

[C6MFC]

Agree with the sentiment Petriix.

With a constant power setting would you not slow down going up hill and accelerate going down? Please everyone drive the car rather than letting the car drive. What's happening around you when you are obsessing about range/efficiency. Stop and have a tea/coffee and a fast charge instead of obsessing over a 2/3% advantage? Is it really worth it? If it flips your switches that's great but what about other road users?

Remove as much weight as possible, empty all car/passenger pockets and glove compartment, remove mats, and spare wheel / tyre kit, fold in door mirrors to reduce drag if its dry drain the washer fluid, how far would you go to get a mile or two more? Put the family on a strict diet, only drive with an empty bowel and bladder. Firmly tongue in cheek before I get a rant

 

[Chrispydoc]

I am the sort of person who doesn't like to "Pay Retail"......If I can get a bit off, I feel better about the deal. I'm not the only one..look at all you folk with your times charging etc, all trying to save a few bob.

That doesn't mean that I don't have the Air-con on when needed...I do.

But 155 miles is approaching my max range and I will make little sayings on power, for the satisfaction of achieving the trip without a stop, therefor saving at leat 30 minuets. I also feel better by letting my solar panels put the power back in by batteries rather than drawing (and paying for some) off the grid.
And I carry a spare wheel around, a a battery booster etc...hang the weight penalty.

 

[Stuwit46]

Just because you can't personally be bothered doesn't mean it's a bad idea. A constant power output would likely be significantly more efficient than a constant speed. I'd suggest a speed limiter would be an important addition to any such system.

I really do miss a speed limiter

 

[Exdro]

When using cruise control there is no KERS, so you lose any regeneration on the downhill stretches. As others have said, if you want maximum efficiency, not to say safety. You drive rather than let the car do it. That's not to say that CC or ACC isn't useful on occasion,

 

[m4rmite]

When using cruise control there is no KERS, so you lose any regeneration on the downhill stretches. As others have said, if you want maximum efficiency, not to say safety. You drive rather than let the car do it. That's not to say that CC or ACC isn't useful on occasion,

When i go down a big hill near me and set the speed to 30 i get negative amps and the screen shows energy going back into the system.

 

[Geingard]

So driving to work into London with a mixture of motorway and city driving I get 4.6 miles per kWh using cruise control primarily on clear roads and the regen kicks in, I also see cruise control drop me pretty much into neutral which using throttle control I can't safely do. I find sensible use of cruise control to actually outperform throttle control.

 

[Exdro]

Agree with the sentiment Petriix.

With a constant power setting would you not slow down going up hill and accelerate going down? Please everyone drive the car rather than letting the car drive. What's happening around you when you are obsessing about range/efficiency. Stop and have a tea/coffee and a fast charge instead of obsessing over a 2/3% advantage? Is it really worth it? If it flips your switches that's great but what about other road users?

Remove as much weight as possible, empty all car/passenger pockets and glove compartment, remove mats, and spare wheel / tyre kit, fold in door mirrors to reduce drag if its dry drain the washer fluid, how far would you go to get a mile or two more? Put the family on a strict diet, only drive with an empty bowel and bladder. Firmly tongue in cheek before I get a rant

Would counsel against driving with tongue in cheek. In the event of an accident this could result in an inability to speak or taste.

 

[Petriix]

Agree with the sentiment Petriix.

With a constant power setting would you not slow down going up hill and accelerate going down? Please everyone drive the car rather than letting the car drive. What's happening around you when you are obsessing about range/efficiency. Stop and have a tea/coffee and a fast charge instead of obsessing over a 2/3% advantage? Is it really worth it? If it flips your switches that's great but what about other road users?

Remove as much weight as possible, empty all car/passenger pockets and glove compartment, remove mats, and spare wheel / tyre kit, fold in door mirrors to reduce drag if its dry drain the washer fluid, how far would you go to get a mile or two more? Put the family on a strict diet, only drive with an empty bowel and bladder. Firmly tongue in cheek before I get a rant

Yes, if I'm on a clear road I will go slower up hills and faster down, just like riding a bike. With discretion obviously so I don't hold up the HGVs. It's just a different mindset rather than anything else, driving with care to avoid unnecessarily wasting energy while making reasonable progress.

I think my method is often faster overall than driving at a higher speed and charging more. But the great thing is that I can adjust my driving so as to utilise my full battery as appropriate for the specific journey. I drove 180 miles from 100% to 6% by monitoring the battery and putting my foot down once I knew I would make it home. On the outward trip I covered 220 miles from 100% to 16%.

It's also about minimising costs by avoiding having to rapid charge as much as possible. It puts less strain on the battery and is generally less stressful.

 

[Petriix]

When using cruise control there is no KERS, so you lose any regeneration on the downhill stretches. As others have said, if you want maximum efficiency, not to say safety. You drive rather than let the car do it. That's not to say that CC or ACC isn't useful on occasion,

That's simply not the case. CC uses KERS to slow the car when going downhill.