V2L Test. 7kW output...

[Stageshoot]

Both myself and my neighbour have our MG4s wired to our household consumer units to run the house directly from V2L.

We were told the MG4 output only 2.2kW,

Our old Kia EV6 output 3.5kW.

Today we decided to push them as far as we could..

With a meter on the input, we ran 2x 600W IR Heating Panels f+ 1x400W IR Heating panel for 1.6kW.

At the same time boiling a 2.5kW kettle and running a 2kW induction cooker hob

General Load of Lights TVs and Computers plus other ancillaries 800W.


Gave 6.9 kW output. Ran that stable with no issues, threw on a toaster and it kicked out and shut down, started up again as soon as the toaster load was removed.

So it seems the MG4 is happy with a 7kW output. Much much better than expected. Was expecting no more 3.5 max

Also let me say this test was done with a proper type 2 V2L adaptor wired up with 6mm cable and direct back to the house with 6mm armoured cable. Please dont try and pull more than a couple of Kw from those Ebay Plug in type2 to3 pin adaptors.

 

[t5t]

Is this a grid tied connection or do you isolate from the grid first? It would be interesting to know your setup?

 

[Stageshoot]

Is this a grid tied connection or do you isolate from the grid first? It would be interesting to know your setup?

Yes as said our Grid goes into a 100amp isolator switch before the consumer unit

the Grid goes to P1 and the Car to P2 with P0 in the middle being all off

So runs from grid normally, to run from car plug in V2L lead, turn switch to P2 via P0 Grid goes off and house is islanded and the car takes on the supply.

Cannot output to grid from car as is issolated from grid by switch.

We also are both in old Pre 1930s houses with proper earth rods,

Switchbox

 

[t5t]

Sounds like a great setup. I would like to do something similar but also incorporate solar PV. You mentioned about the earth rod. Do you know if the car is also earthed via the tyres? It would be nice to know what protection the car can provide in the event of a potentially fatal electrical fault.

 

[Stageshoot]

Sounds like a great setup. I would like to do something similar but also incorporate solar PV. You mentioned about the earth rod. Do you know if the car is also earthed via the tyres? It would be nice to know what protection the car can provide in the event of a potentially fatal electrical fault.

Same protections as when you are charging it I suppose.

 

[Lovemyev]

Yes as said our Grid goes into a 100amp isolator switch before the consumer unit

the Grid goes to P1 and the Car to P2 with P0 in the middle being all off

So runs from grid normally, to run from car plug in V2L lead, turn switch to P2 via P0 Grid goes off and house is islanded and the car takes on the supply.

Cannot output to grid from car as is issolated from grid by switch.

We also are both in old Pre 1930s houses with proper earth rods,

Switchbox

View attachment 12838

Similar set up here, with a switch box.

 

[Aussi55]

Hi,

Thanks for posting this information, very interesting.

Could I ask if the ignition needs to be on and the car unlocked for this to work, or can it be locked? If the latter I assume the v2l cable is locked into the car as well?

What setup do you have between the car and the house wiring, does the V2L cable go straight to the switch via 6mm cable?

 

[Stageshoot]

Hi,

Thanks for posting this information, very interesting.

Could I ask if the ignition needs to be on and the car unlocked for this to work, or can it be locked? If the latter I assume the v2l cable is locked into the car as well?

What setup do you have between the car and the house wiring, does the V2L cable go straight to the switch via 6mm cable?

No it works fine with the car locked and the ignition off. and yes the V2L cable is locked to the car.

I have a V2L (Type 2 Cables that goes to a Junction Box on the front of the house, that is wired back to the Breker switch by the consumer unit with 6mm armoured cable)

 

[shiv]

This is super interesting. On a cost basis, the MG4 and MG5 are cheaper per kwh than most home storage batteries.
Would the MG5 (pre and post facelift) also have similar capability?

 

[Stageshoot]

This is super interesting. On a cost basis, the MG4 and MG5 are cheaper per kwh than most home storage batteries.
Would the MG5 (pre and post facelift) also have similar capability?

Personally have only tested the MG4 ,so dont know about the MG5 I am afraid.

 

[Lovemyev]

The best of both words really, if you ask me.
A home / mobile storage battery, that can be used to power electrical appliances ( within the safety limits set out by MG of course ) via a V2L adaptor or suitable cable, brilliant !.
The Gen 2 ZS EV started the ball rolling for this function I believe, but I think you need the car booted up, in order for it to work ?.
DRL’s are in use if this is indeed the case, so not as polished as the MG4 system it would appear.
I’ll take that anyway !.
V2L is a brilliant feature on some EV’s.

 

[jon0881]

Im gonna bet the SE SR 51kWh battery doesnt do the same just like its shortfall in charging!

 

[siteguru]

Im gonna bet the SE SR 51kw battery doesnt do the same just like its shortfall in charging!

Are you confusing AC charge/discharge with the DC charging "limitation" for the SE SR when using rapid chargers? (i.e. 87kWh actual vs 115kWh specified)

 

[BugEyed]

The only difference is that @Stageshoot 's car being an early Trophy has a 3 phase inverter, although he is running it in single phase mode when powering his house.

 

[wandle MG4 trophy]

Using the car as a home battery is all well and good but all batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycles. Regular usage of V2L will surely shorten the life of the battery?

 

[Jester27]

Using the car as a home battery is all well and good but all batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycles. Regular usage of V2L will surely shorten the life of the battery?

Unless mg can detect v2l use surely the battery warranty will still be intact for 7 years.
home batteries are only warrantied for about 10 years anyway
we have one on order but can’t get it in while April
so looking at using the mg4 until then if possible.

 

[TheArcher]

Both myself and my neighbour have our MG4s wired to our household consumer units to run the house directly from V2L.

We were told the MG4 output only 2.2Kw,

Our old Kia EV6 output 3.5Kw

Today we decided to push them as far as we could.

Gave 6.9 Kw output. ran that stable with no issues, threw on a toaster and it kicked out and shut down, started up again as soon as the toaster load was removed.

So it seems the MG4 is happy with a 7Kw output. Much much better than expected. Was expecting no more 3.5 max

Did you happen to note the before & after range of the MG4?

 

[Stageshoot]

Did you happen to note the before & after range of the MG4?

No, we just use it as needed and recharge on cheap rate.

 

[spr97ajm]

Unless mg can detect v2l use surely the battery warranty will still be intact for 7 years.
home batteries are only warrantied for about 10 years anyway
we have one on order but can’t get it in while April
so looking at using the mg4 until then if possible.

Whenever a modern car does anything at all the onboard computer will log it, so yes, MG will know if they read the logs. I expect this will be done at servicing. Whether it'll affect the warranty is another matter.

 

[Stageshoot]

Using the car as a home battery is all well and good but all batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycles. Regular usage of V2L will surely shorten the life of the battery?

So say I pull 10kWh in a day for the house, thats 1/6 of a cycle.

MG rate for 2000 cycles I believe, so 12000 days. (32 Odd Years). at 1/6 cycle.

Driving the car and using 50 to 80% a day makes the kWh from V2L Insignificant.

Not that it would ever bother me I change car every year due to my mileage.

Many sound horrible but I paid the original price for it so intend to use it as much as I can, dont see the point in buying something new and not squeezing as much use and value out of it I can.