V2L to run home heatpump

[sirJohn]

Hi

I have the first edition of MG ZS EV but considering the new edition because of the range, app and the V2L function.

But due to the high energy prices, I was wondering I could connect my home heatpump to the V2L on the car, of course of the grid in the house.

 

[Jomarkh]

How much power does the pump draw on starting up as I thought the V2L is about 2.2kW or 3kW peak?

 

[sirJohn]

How much power does the pump draw on starting up as I thought the V2L is about 2.2kW or 3kW peak?

Im a bit in doubt, but with some search I have figured out it use nominel current at 3200W. For a cold day it use 10kwh for an entire day.

I saw guy on youtube running an oiled radiator and it used 3000w, but for a heatpump who needs to run longer time, im uncertain if it damage something

 

[MichaelJHunt]

I have run 5kW on my V2L (using a 32Amp Cable). Car didn't complain and nothing under the bonnet got hot when measured with an IR contactless thermometer.

The Spec is 2.2kW I think, but it can deliver way more than that.

 

[sirJohn]

I have run 5kW on my V2L (using a 32Amp Cable). Car didn't complain and nothing under the bonnet got hot when measured with an IR contactless thermometer.

The Spec is 2.2kW I think, but it can deliver way more than that.

Really great to know, for how long did you run it? I heard some mention their 12V battery died while using V2L

 

[MichaelJHunt]

Ò

Really great to know, for how long did you run it? I heard some mention their 12V battery died while using V2L

The 12V battery is fine if you have the car in READY state when using the V2L. From tests I have done, 4 hours with the car powered down and doors locked is fine.

If you use the iSmart App to check the status of the car, as a side affect it also charges the 12V battery to top it back up. I would suggest doing this every couple of hours if using the V2L with the car powered off and locked.

The draw on the 12V battery is not related to the draw on the V2L. Merely having V2L enable causes the draw on the 12V battery.

 

[John11000]

Ò

The 12V battery is fine if you have the car in READY state when using the V2L. From tests I have done, 4 hours with the car powered down and doors locked is fine.

If you use the iSmart App to check the status of the car, as a side affect it also charges the 12V battery to top it back up. I would suggest doing this every couple of hours if using the V2L with the car powered off and locked.

The draw on the 12V battery is not related to the draw on the V2L. Merely having V2L enable causes the draw on the 12V battery.

Some people have suggested using a battery charger run from the V2L to keep the 12v battery topped up when using for any length of time.

 

[Obsidien]

Hello,

Just FYI : in any heatpump, compressor start eat 5 to 10 times current than nominal (motor start syndrom). So, for a 3Kwh nominal heatpump, V2L must furbish 10to25Kwh for a second or two. Does onduler will resist or cutoff ?

 

[BrianG]

My 14kW heat pump can draw up to 8/9 kW for up to 15 minutes but generally not and runs at less than 3 kW for most of the time. I think it has soft start function too so wouldn't go over 4 kW if all the settings were low. I.e. force the flow temperature low to start and the room stats low too and then increase them gently bit by bit.

 

[Count Zero]

Generation (solar PV, battery or an EV) would need to sync with the AC supply within a property – the relevant electricity standard is G98: “G98 is a simple connection procedure for Fully Type Tested systems under 16A per phase”.

A V2Grid system that is designed for the UK should meet the G98 standard. UK trials of this seem mainly to be Nissan Leaf’s using the additional functions in a Chademo connector.

V2L is a different concept and electrical system – standalone loads. So an oil filled radiator on a 13A plug might be fine (if the car does not produce enough power the radiator will just produce less heat). The electronics on the car synthesises a 50Hz voltage and current using an inverter.

Trying to plug a V2L car into UK grid will probably not work – as a V2L car is not designed to sense and follow the mains grid – the grid is huge and has significant electrical inertia, compared to a 2.3A V2L car – so easy to guess which system would win this contest.

A heat pump is a very different piece of kit. Assuming that your heat pump is not hard wired to the mains the V2L car would need to provide enough power at all levels of electricity demand – otherwise the compressor motor risks stalling.

Your car, your heat pump, your home, your risk.

 

[ChrisMowatt]

I'm wondering if V2L is necessary.

Would 'Poor Man's V2L' not work with your existing ZS?

I don't know about the MG ZS, but I believe the DC to DC converter on the MG5 is rated at 178A at 14V DC, which equates to about 2.5kW. If a 2.5kW power inverter was connected to the 12V battery, then in theory, so long as the car was in Ready mode, you could draw a constant 2.5kW and probably a peak of 5kW, as the 12V battery would act like a buffer.

In practice the fuse on the MG5 DC to DC converter is rated at 150A, or so I'm told, which equates to 2.1kW, so you might only be able to run a heat pump at a constant 2kW.

Most heat pumps these days work off variable speed inverters, so I don't think the high starting current of the compressors are as much a problem as they used to be, and you may be able to configure the inverter to restrict the load/speed to, say, 2kW.

So, in theory, if your heat pump is inverter controlled and you can configure it to not exceed 2kW and you power it directly from a 2.5kW power inverter connected to your 12V battery on your existing ZS, with the car in Ready mode, for 5 hours a day, then you would draw 10KWh of energy from you ZS HV battery and your heat pump would harvest up to 40kWh of heat to heat your home.

Presumably you have some sort of EV night tariff, so it would be a very economical way of heating your home, without spending 30 grand on a new car. You can buy a 2.5kW (5kW peak) pure sinewave power inverter for £120.

 

[windymiller]

Generation (solar PV, battery or an EV) would need to sync with the AC supply within a property – the relevant electricity standard is G98: “G98 is a simple connection procedure for Fully Type Tested systems under 16A per phase”.

A V2Grid system that is designed for the UK should meet the G98 standard. UK trials of this seem mainly to be Nissan Leaf’s using the additional functions in a Chademo connector.

V2L is a different concept and electrical system – standalone loads. So an oil filled radiator on a 13A plug might be fine (if the car does not produce enough power the radiator will just produce less heat). The electronics on the car synthesises a 50Hz voltage and current using an inverter.

Trying to plug a V2L car into UK grid will probably not work – as a V2L car is not designed to sense and follow the mains grid – the grid is huge and has significant electrical inertia, compared to a 2.3A V2L car – so easy to guess which system would win this contest.

A heat pump is a very different piece of kit. Assuming that your heat pump is not hard wired to the mains the V2L car would need to provide enough power at all levels of electricity demand – otherwise the compressor motor risks stalling.

Your car, your heat pump, your home, your risk.

Interesting, looking at the same with my Hyundai Ioniq. 3.6KW max but only a 7KW (thermal output) ASHP. Even at a low end COP of 3 this should never draw more than 2.3KW so technically well within the limits of the cars capacity.. just need to make sure the battery is fully charged!