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They said they couldn’t find anything wrong.

The SE in the UK is R33 but the Trophy is R59. Should be on or the other though.

Congratulations. If it’s from an MG4 dealer try to insist they update the software to R33 before you collect it. Fixes a few issues and seems very stable to me.

Tell him to buy it then glue something into the USB port so they can’t never update it!! 😂

I think it’s mostly down to so much new technology being involved. Everyone is starting almost from scratch. A lot of the driver assistance stuff just isn’t ready yet, but manufacturers are being forced to put them in. If the ID.3 didn’t have lane assist or front assist I’d not have anything...

One important tip for the OP though: If you go for an ID.3 (and I’m not saying you shouldn’t, I liked mine), make sure you test drive it at high speed on the motorway. The ID.3 I test drove juddered at high speed as if a wheel was out of balance. The new one I got didn’t. So assumed it was just...

Doubt we’d have much to say. Both got lemons of different cars. However, Volkswagen are historically perceived as reliable cars and they aren’t. They are riding on their past. If you buy an MG you’re expecting to be let down but both score about the same. Cupra are at the bottom… which makes me...

My first EV was an ID.3, followed by a Cupra Born. To drive the MG4 feels like something in between the two. I didn’t have any reliability issues with the ID.3 but loads with the Born (wish i never swapped to it), which is basically the same car in a Spanish frock. If I had a Time Machine...

It’s probably not coming from where you think. Mine has the same thing but it’s coming from the bit where the interior light is on the roof. Push that area in and it stops. Sounds like the passenger the B pillar for the driver and the driver side B pillar for the passenger! Mine is booked in to...

Used to be that you need a months worth of half hourly readings before they let you switch to a smart tariff, but may have changed. It’s certainly worth looking at getting your ducks in a row.

You need a SMET2 smart meter and one of the compatible chargers or a compatible car to switch to IOG. If you aren’t already with Octopus then you’re probably better starting a switch to them with a standard tariff first. If you don’t have a SMET2 meter then ask them to fit one as soon as you’re...

Since the Ohme has no API integration, the easiest way to make sure it doesn’t cut the power a 100% is to tell you want to add more than you need. I just add an extra 10%.

I’ve had a little look under my car and can’t see anything obviously wrong. I know this is a common problem but am struggling to understand why it even matters (short of it coming off). Why is this actually a concern? Does it tend to break off or something like that?

Good luck!

My advice would be to take it back in and insist that a technician come with you and demonstrate the problem to them at a rapid charger. Then tell them you don’t want it back until they can demonstrate it working on it. There is clearly a fault with the car that they have done something to fix...

Couple of things you could try… After starting the charge on the charger press ‘start charging’ on the car screen or try locking the car.

Mine has a steering column rattle and a sort of bump in the feel when turning to centre from about 180 degrees right. It’s booked in to be looked at under warranty.

Yeah, need to get it sorted really. It’s also go a rattle from the overhead panel that contains the interior light and glasses holder. Took me bloody ages to work out where it was coming from as it sounded like it’s from the passenger side and nobody I asked could hear it. Eventually one of my...

Mine has a rattle from the steering column. Seems to be worse with the wheel turned around the amount needed to turn at a junction. It’s also got a sort lumpy feeling when turning it back to the centre if it was near full lock (like a bump in the mechanism). I’ve not bothered booking it in yet.

Were you using cruise control? It could be that you had it in TJA mode instead of ACC so it would be trying to steer for you as well as maintain the speed. I doubt it’s that as you’d have felt the steering wheel moving on its own but it would otherwise do as you described. With lane assist off...