Caught this EVSE wiring issue just in time!

DarrenG

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Unplugged my car this morning and noticed a burn mark on the outside of the junction box cover below the ChargeMaster charger. Isolated it and took off the cover to find this mess, amazing it was still charging!

I've now swapped out the entire junction box for a new one and ensured all the entry points are properly sealed.

To be fair it's been in situ for 13years now!


IMG_7832.jpeg
 
Unplugged my car this morning and noticed a burn mark on the outside of the junction box cover below the ChargeMaster charger. Isolated it and took off the cover to find this mess, amazing it was still charging!

I've now swapped out the entire junction box for a new one and ensured all the entry points are properly sealed.

To be fair it's been in situ for 13years now!


View attachment 19652
Lucky you caught that in time.

Yes, poor wiring degrades over time with thermal stress which increases resistance and makes heating worse. The result is wiring that works fine hundreds of times and then fails.

Shows the importance of checking your wiring properly and renewing if there's any doubt.
 
Unplugged my car this morning and noticed a burn mark on the outside of the junction box cover below the ChargeMaster charger. Isolated it and took off the cover to find this mess, amazing it was still charging!

I've now swapped out the entire junction box for a new one and ensured all the entry points are properly sealed.

To be fair it's been in situ for 13years now!


View attachment 19652
Doesn't look like a professional installation.
 
Doesn't look like a professional installation.
I suspect some of that may be due to the V2G install that was done a few years back. They made a right mess and first attempt blew my mains fuse. Second install crew had to redo almost all the initial V2G install as it was so bad.
 
I replaced with the same brand and size as had been fitted originally, rated for 32A.

The flexible conduit adapters, especially the one at the top is likely to allow water ingress. I would only have entries to the box underneath or on side if I had to. Great find, well done that man.
 
The flexible conduit adapters, especially the one at the top is likely to allow water ingress. I would only have entries to the box underneath or on side if I had to. Great find, well done that man.
I’ve applied copious sealant to the external and internal faces of all three conduits and the box lid just to be safe 🤞
 
I don't know if you've fitted a new connector yet but ideally you should replace the wiring with one unjointed length of the correct cable from the consumer unit to the charger.
If that's not feasible then use either Henly blocks or the new Wago connectors of again a suitable size to join your wiring..
 
Unplugged my car this morning and noticed a burn mark on the outside of the junction box cover below the ChargeMaster charger. Isolated it and took off the cover to find this mess, amazing it was still charging!

I've now swapped out the entire junction box for a new one and ensured all the entry points are properly sealed.

To be fair it's been in situ for 13years now!


View attachment 19652
Wow I have a junction box like that but it only does my out side lights @6amps not a charger @32amps
 
I don't know if you've fitted a new connector yet but ideally you should replace the wiring with one unjointed length of the correct cable from the consumer unit to the charger.
If that's not feasible then use either Henly blocks or the new Wago connectors of again a suitable size to join your wiring..
Yes, every additional connection potentially adds a weakness.
 
Like johnB80 stated ant good electrician would never have an external cable or conduit in the top of an external junction box. The stuffing gland and the connectors for the flexible conduit don't look as if they are IP rated for external installations. I would seriously look at getting a decent electrician in to do a proper job.
 
Was there enough spare cable to remove all the burnt bits?
Thankfully yes 🙏🏻

Like johnB80 stated ant good electrician would never have an external cable or conduit in the top of an external junction box. The stuffing gland and the connectors for the flexible conduit don't look as if they are IP rated for external installations. I would seriously look at getting a decent electrician in to do a proper job.
That was the standard install for Chargemaster, at least back when this was installed. If you Google photos they're all like that, doesn't make it right off course. The gland and connector came with the EVSE and was very short. I'm planning to upgrade it to a more modern charger in the near future and the V2G install removed at the same time.
 
Scrap it and start again with steel wired armoured correct cable size and glands. I can see houses being burnt down with owners trying to draw 32A through at 13A rated supply. Get the work done by a qualified electrician, with a dedicated outlet, it is not a DIY job.
 
Just to say that I not a fully qualified spark, but I still have a few issues issues with the install / wiring of this old junction box, that triggers my OCD 🤣.
Firstly, if you look in the bottom corners of the so called IP rated back box, you will see some rust staining ( not from plastic I hear you say ).
But check out where the screws are attaching the box to the wall !.
The back box has been drilled of course, but in turn this has completely compromising the IP rating of the box.
The box has been attached to the wall ( likely without any silicone applied to the rear surface of the back box first.
As a result, water has been allowed to enter the back box via this route.
This is clearly evident as the retaining screws have rusted ( hence the rusty water stains inside the box ).
I am also willing to bet that there has been no water drain hole drilled in one of the bottom back corners of the back box either for drainage ( should the box IP integrity become compromised ).
Top entry via any gland is never a good option either, where possible enter from the side or even better, from the bottom and include a drip loop into the incoming / out going cables.
This will allow water to run down the outside of the cable and then drip from the loop made in the bottom of cable.
The choc block strip looks a little undersized, and the multi stranded single conductors, looks like they have been twisted together and then inserted into the choc block.
No cable crimping ferrules used back then of course.
Over time the terminal screws in the choc block have become loose and heat / burning has commenced.
Today, there are better quality alternatives for both back boxes and terminal connectors.
A wiska box / crimping ferrules and Wago connectors would be a big improvement over the previous install.
The earth / CPC connections don’t look right to me either ?.
Two single conductors are sharing the same terminal connector in the choc box ( okay ) but we then have another single earth / CPC conductor living on its own in the terminal strip next door ?.
I can’t see a jump across the back, so how has the earth continuity been maintained here ??.
Of course we are unable to see the whole install.
Maybe a qualified person can correct me if I wrong here 👍.
Some wall boxes ( even new units ) come pre wired with a short length of appropriate sized cable, from the manufacturer.
They do not want you to have access to the internals.
Therefore you have no alternative but to use a junction box to connect the wall box to the supply cable.
It’s really is surprising that the wall boxes was still working TBH.
Is this wall box protected by suitably rated breaker in the CU or by a stand alone CU.
Strange, as I would have thought that this would have been intermittently tripping before reaching this stage ?.
It sounds like you intend to update your wall 13 year old box in the not too distant future regardless.
The regs have changed regarding the installation of wall boxes now, so you may need some upgrades to your home electrics when you do the switch over.
 
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