Isolation Switch

@Alb @KenD

Sorry, in my installation, fitting the isolation switch did NOT involve removal of the service head fuse; it was connected to a spare socket on my CU. The installer added an RCD unit to that spare socket and then connected the isolation switch.

I believe my DNO are fully aware of exactly what was done by the installer; certainly I know they corresponded with each other on several occasions, including when, after installation, I discovered that the charger was repeatedly "disconnecting", necessitating a reboot via the isolation switch. The problem turned out to be that the incoming mains voltage, which has, by law I believe, to be between 216 volts and 253 volts, was actually up to 258! Hence, the charger's overload protection was being activated.
Ah, this goes back to the source of confusion I addressed in my first post.
When people talk about isolation switches it helps if they clarify exactly what they are intending to isolate.
 
@Alb @KenD

Sorry, in my installation, fitting the isolation switch did NOT involve removal of the service head fuse; it was connected to a spare socket on my CU. The installer added an RCD unit to that spare socket and then connected the isolation switch.

I believe my DNO are fully aware of exactly what was done by the installer; certainly I know they corresponded with each other on several occasions, including when, after installation, I discovered that the charger was repeatedly "disconnecting", necessitating a reboot via the isolation switch. The problem turned out to be that the incoming mains voltage, which has, by law I believe, to be between 216 volts and 253 volts, was actually up to 258! Hence, the charger's overload protection was being activated.
It is good to know that it can be done without waiting for the supplier.
@emmrecs, Who is your installation if you don't mind?
 
There is another similar thread running on this subject on this forum, it’s called help with my power supply and I had a similar issue to emmrecs #19 when my Zappi was installed under here is a copy from that thread I had the DNO visit my home on several occasions while trying to sort mine out but never did anyone mention anything about a isolating switch mine just has a switched 40amp breaker in the consumer over 2 years since mine was fitted but maybe the rules have changed can only be for the good I suppose to have one.
Les.

I had my Zappi installed last year but only started using it from January, The charger keeps on saying fault over/under voltage unable to charge and showing 0.2KW/H always playing up. I have used it 5 times since getting my car DEC 22nd 4 times i have had the fault causing me to reset the charger or keep trying to connect it to the car. Hopefully there is a fix but haven't heard of one yet? luckily i charge at work cheaper than at home.
Hi steve1973 ok I had a similar problem with my Zappi when it first when in,so the outcome was I got in touch with the installers who came back to check everything was OK from there side of things and it was, so they then contacted the DNO on my behalf, they came the next day and found the voltage coming into my home was to high around 253 volts I think it was from memory, they then went to local substation and did something there, came back and ask me not to use it as they would need to cut off the supply to about 15 homes on the same feed so the next day they contacted all the homes to tell them they need to shut off the power for a period of time around 30-60 minutes which the did a few days later around 10 :00 am and by 10:20 all was back on and it’s been fine for the last almost 3 years so contact you installer or the DNO hope this helps.
Les
Edit at #29.
 
Last edited:
@KenD

I used a company quite local to me, in Lincolnshire, Greenvoltz.

When I ordered my car my dealer/MG "recommended" a Rolec charger (again they're actually built not far from me) and when I contacted Rolec to enquire about an installation they put me in touch with Greenvoltz.

I have to say the service received from the installer was absolutely first-class! Nothing was too much trouble and, like @Les burrows experienced, that over-voltage really did cause the installer to have to make several return visits to me and several phone calls to the DNO, resolved, as for Les, by the DNO reducing the voltage at the local substation.
 
Hi smoke, l had to have isolation switch and fuse increased to 100amp


Sorry, yes that is what was required before my install, my Octopus supplier did isolation switch free, and UK power upgraded 63amp to 100amp free as well, O and installer increased tails
EDF (or the local network provider) charged me £120 just to upgrade the fuse from 80 to 100amp. A 2 minute job.
 
EDF (or the local network provider) charged me £120 just to upgrade the fuse from 80 to 100amp. A 2 minute job.
Wow the DNO do it for free I was led to believe they're the only people that can change the main fuse may be EDF contacted the DNO and charged you a admin fee?
 
Wow the DNO do it for free I was led to believe they're the only people that can change the main fuse may be EDF contacted the DNO and charged you a admin fee?
Sounds about right !.
EDF acting as a go between with the DNO and then charged the customer for the privilege of arranging it - cheers EDF !.
I am with EDF so when I wanted our main cut out fuse upgraded from 60 Amps to 100 Amps, I did contact my local DNO myself.
Honestly, it was really hard work.
I told them why I was requesting the upgrade ( EV charger more load items etc ) and they said the main fuse upgrade should have been requested by the EV wall box installer back in 2016.
Rattling on about this application form that should have been submitted prior / or at the time of the install ????
I contacted the EV installer and he was on holiday, great !.
The person manning the phone DID know about the form that the DNO had spoken about and gave me the form number and said he would speak to the boss on his return.
After about two hours of searching, I did find the request form !.
This request SHOULD trigger a rely from the DNO.
Which it did, but getting connected with the correct department was extremely difficult.
I did get the run around for a while, until somebody from the DNO actually contacted me by phone who DID grasp the idea of what I wanted.
At first, the guy at the DNO tried to sell me on the idea of a quick and easy upgrade from a 60 to 80 Amp upgrade, but after I explained that I wanted to load shift a number of heavy load demand items into off peak times, he did agreed that a 100 Amp upgrade was the correct way to go.
He went on to explain that the 60 and 80 Amp are both are the same physical size and therefore are quickly interchangeable.
However, the 100 Amp fuse is much larger in it's physical size and therefore the service head that carry's the fuse will need replacing also.
Not a "massive job" as he put it, but more involved than a very quick 60 to 80 upgrade.
Once I DID managed to get the appointment, the work was completed in about 20 minutes.
Access was easy as the under ground incoming supply cable / meter and consumer unit is all mounted at chest height on the wall of the internal garage.
All of the work was carried out completely F.O.C.
 
told them why I was requesting the upgrade ( EV charger more load items etc ) and they said the main fuse upgrade should have been requested by the EV wall box installer back in 2016.
Most DNO websites have a request page now it's very easy
 
Found this today so an edit to #23 I said from memory around 257volts well it was 253
5ED7AC19-80F3-4529-8DAE-08342C474270.jpeg
volts on the card the DNO left me
 
I might need to ask my DNO to install the Isolation Switch. Hope it won't case confusion between EON and DNO.
 
I might need to ask my DNO to install the Isolation Switch. Hope it won't case confusion between EON and DNO.
The DNO normal only work up to and including fuse as the isolation switch is after the electric metre it will be your supplier that normal does this work
I got mine installed at the same time as tail upgrades to 25mm by my supplier OVO they quoted £40 up to £200 but never billed me I phoned them and they said it was free as they should have done it with my new electric metre the year before
 
Last edited:
I am in the process to install an EV charger with Egg. There are 2 fuse boxes with spares slots. Initially Egg said that my house meets all requirements to install the charger. However the told me that I need a Isolation switch installed.

Do I need the isolation switch?

Thanks in advance
Yes just had mine fitted and because my fuse box or distribution board had no spare fuses in they fitted a separate feed from meter and put a isolator in before the new small fuse box which has anti surge in it and the fuse to feed the charger
 
Wow, the switch that Octopus fitted for free was to switch of consumer unit completely, which in turn isolate the charger as well,
Got a quote from Octopus. They said that they will install the isolation switch between the supply and fuse box. I will double check with them. Thinking to cancel Egg and go for Octopus
 
Wow the DNO do it for free I was led to believe they're the only people that can change the main fuse may be EDF contacted the DNO and charged you a admin fee?
My mistake - it was the DNO who I contacted directly and had to fill their online form out and pay upfront for the job. I'm in Yorkshire and did press them on the cost. Was told it was no longer free.
 
Support us by becoming a Premium Member

Latest MG EVs video

MG3 Hybrid+ & Cyberster Configurator News + hot topics from the MG EVs forums
Subscribe to our YouTube channel
Back
Top Bottom