getting air flow into the cabin without the fan operating?

I would expect a centrifugal heater fan to draw about 6-800 watts on full power. As they only use resistors to provide slow running, this just wastes power. Therefore on a 4 hours trip, about 3Kw of power is used, a bit more from the HV battery - say 3.5 Kw. That's 3.5kW that you cannot use for powering the car. Also, in terms of the GOM, as soon as you turn on the HVAC system, it deducts about 20mile per hour from your GOM reading. That doesn't change anything really, of course, but it does make you a bit edgy. For max miles,
As you cannot actually change the rain, wind, temperature, incline etc, - HVAC you can influence and it must be off.
 
Tim Green said:
I would expect a centrifugal heater fan to draw about 6-800 watts on full power. As they only use resistors to provide slow running, this just wastes power. Therefore on a 4 hours trip, about 3Kw of power is used, a bit more from the HV battery - say 3.5 Kw. That's 3.5kW that you cannot use for powering the car. Also, in terms of the GOM, as soon as you turn on the HVAC system, it deducts about 20mile per hour from your GOM reading. That doesn't change anything really, of course, but it does make you a bit edgy. For max miles,
As you cannot actually change the rain, wind, temperature, incline etc, - HVAC you can influence and it must be off.
Click to expand...
The heater does draw a lot as you say, but the fan alone without the heater draws very little from the HV battery by way of charging of the 12v.
 
The hester blower alone takes the power I suggested. If the heater element is added it takes much more. On ICE cars the heater is about 6kWhrs when the engine is hot, so they must have a similar electric heater for the ev. Imagine the heat loss of the surface area of the car when travelling at 50 miles an hour in an ambient temp of 0C.! There is only a thin sheet of metal between 20C inside and 0C outside.
 
I don't know where you got 6-800 watts from, the blower motor fuse is only 40A.
12 x 40 = 480W max or it would blow the fuse. :unsure:
 
Well I accept I was using figures from systems I have worked on in the past, which were obviously larger, and for ICE cars. However, the principle remains the same, even at 400W. When out in my Mk1 this evening I checked the fan at full power with no heat. The dashboard display showed 1A at 420V which seems to correlate. Interestingly, turning the heater to full showed a very unstable current reading which is probably due to the heater using a switch-mode control system to provide a proportional control, directly on the HV batteries. So less wasted power there than I envisaged. However, powering up any part of the hvac system will reduce the possible mileage.
 
BarryJ said:
When driving the car along, is it possible to get air flow into the MK1 ZS EV without opening a window and getting "ear drum buffering" or running the power hungry fan? If not, is it the same issue with the MG5? even with the sun roof tilted in the ZS the cabin gets stuffy, especially in the rear seat area and the boot where our greyhound travels. Any thought please?
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Switch off HVAC with automatically puts into recirc mode (orange on) then press recirc button to activate airflow into car (orange light off). gives small amount of airflow depending on car speed.
 
Kithmo said:
Set the HVAC temperature to the same as the outside ambient temperature and the the AC off then you can do what you want with the fan and the draw on the HV battery will be negligible. The fan runs off the 12v.
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If this runs off the 12v why is there a range drop of 15 to 20 miles on the mg5 excite long-range when fan is switched on
 
jonno58 said:
If this runs off the 12v why is there a range drop of 15 to 20 miles on the mg5 excite long-range when fan is switched on
Click to expand...
The blower ( fan ) motor is powered from the 12 volt battery under the bonnet.
If heat or cooling is called for in any level of setting, then the traction battery is required to power these services.
The remaining predicted range on the GOM will reflect this high power demand by displaying the range reduction.
 
ARealHuman said:
Yes, the airflow isn't that great without wither the sunroof tilted open, or a window open a bit. Both these methods help draw the air through the vehicle. I use the sunroof method a lot, even in light rain, to pull air into the car.
Click to expand...
Driving in eco mode also reduces air flow and steaming up will occur.
 
in my old diesel I never switched climate control off ... when I picked up my ZS, first think was to check it was off... then kept opening and closing the window whilst driving home ... I really hope I won't become paranoid and never turn it on .😂

solution 1:

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Its only an issue if you are on a long trip. Around home I just treat aircon as for any other car and it works fine.
 
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