Access to internal fuse box

[Hairyfool]

The handbook refers to "remove the dashboard end cover plate and lower trim panel"

Removing the panel reveals two screws holding the trim panel clips but even though I have taken them out and releasing the clips allows no real movement of the trim panel.

How do you access the fuse panel?

 

[Ozzie1989]

Do a search for dash cam on this forum and there are lots of threads about the fuse box. Here's one I just found:

"I used the fuse box to the right of the driver's knee. Open the door. Gently pull away the door seal, then you can pry out the cover that's to the right of the fuse box. Then you can access the fuses easily. It's still a bit fiddly but possible."

 

[Hairyfool]

I have already removed the end panel as suggested if you read my post.

My question is how to remove the front trim panel as indicated in the handbook as this would give better access

 

[GorillaWheels]

Sorry that link didn't work and I don't seem to be able to delete my post.

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

 

[GorillaWheels]

Photo credits go to lan Edwards & Robert Michal Przechowski on the MG5 Fans & Owners Facebook page. I'm sure they won't mind me posting them in it helps someone

 

[Hairyfool]

Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for although the "give it a good pull" wasn't a step I was willing to do without knowing there was no more fixings to worry about.

The second picture with the "dash lowered" is particularly useful as it shows the dog pins that engage with the under fascia. With three along the top, two more down the right side, at least three on the left. Possibly more, all of which confirm the "good pull" needed.

 

[Hairyfool]

The reason why I would like a better view of the fuse board is because I need both the ACC and Continuous feed options as my dash cam has the low power parked protection function.

The ACC via F1 is fine but finding a true continuous feed and not one that goes off after 25 minutes when the car fully goes to sleep is always problematic with modern electronics. I would normally look for a courtesy light feed but none are listed as covering that function. Testing is much easier when you can actually see the fuse box. I can see on the photo I took of the fuse box shows F35-36 (empty) do have one of the contacts fitted so are at least worthy of investigation.

 

[Alb]

That is a ridiculous amount of dismantling just to get to the fusebox. These things are meant to be accessible. I'm glad I managed my camera installation via the side panel alone.

 

[Hairyfool]

I have seen worse. I am trying to remember which car it was which required unhooking the fuse box from its retainers so it would then hang down on its cables below the trim to see it. Fine it theory but in practice the cables were too stiff/short and you ended up upside down in the footwell to see it.

This method of trim fixing is far from uncommon, it produces a very neat finish and makes for VERY fast assembly. I am even a little surprised at the two screws under the end panel, it looks like a fix for a squeak or rattle in pre production.

I fitted Car Audio and other accessories for many years going back to the release of the Mini Metro. BL always fitted a White/Green accessory wire ending in a bullet type socket. I spent 2 1/2 hours on my 1st fitting stripping the entire console trying to find it knowing that once I had I could use it time and again. Eventually found it on the PASSENGER side of the heater matrix. 20 minutes to fit a radio, speaker and aerial after that.

I don't think I could get upside down in a footwell any more

 

[IanE]

That would have been a french car no doubt, I remember well having to remove the glove box to access the fuse board, and if anyone opened the door whilst you had one of the plugs on the board off the lights and windscreen wipers would come on and stay on.