Archev's adventures in the Berlingo

I spent a fair amount of time today reading up about the parallel roads. I had seen them marked on the OS map just like any other forest or moorland track, except they could be seen to follow the contours, rather obviously didn't connect to anything, and were specifically labelled "parallel roads". I was vaguely curious about what they were. I had no idea they were so famous. I only decided to ride Glen Roy because it looked like a nice bike ride!

For the first third of the ride, to the viewpoint, I had no idea. Then I read the blurb at the viewpoint (not every word at that stage) and the penny dropped. The rest of the ride was interesting as I was imagining I was at the bottom of this huge, cold loch at various depths depending on where the lowest unblocked exit channel was at the time. It was also particularly pleasant because the road was closed to traffic beyond the viewpoint, as workmen were installing new concrete bridges over three of the burns coming down the hillside. It was possible to cycle over them though (or walk the bike), and when I got to the third one the men were actively working with a huge HGV parked solidly in the middle of the road. I asked if it was OK to take a bike round, and they said sure thing, on you go. But it meant that I wasn't going to encounter traffic.

It was slightly eerie in that the broken clouds were quite dense, so the atmosphere alternated between bright sunshine bathing the glen, and ominous gloom. Although like all these Highland roads it undulated, the gradient wasn't much and I only had to walk one section near the beginning. I didn't go beyond Turret Bridge where the tarred road ends, as I'd had enough of rough tracks the previous day, but from all I've read it might have been interesting and I might go back some day.

I met another woman on an e-bike, a pretty sturdy chunky affair. While I was pushing Hilda up the steep part near the beginning she rode past me almost effortlessly, motor humming. She didn't look like Superwoman, and I thought, what the heck? But when I was standing around the viewpoint she came back the other way and came over to talk. (She had only been part of the way up the glen.) She told me it should be possible to get a bike past the bridge repairs, and all about her great-grandfather who had had a farm there with about a bazillion sheep, but went bankrupt and it was now derelict. Not a word about the parallel roads though!

So I asked her. Is that bike of yours the standard 250 watt motor? Oh no, she said, I think it's 650 watts. Well that explained her zooming up that hill. So do you have to have insurance and road tax and wear a helmet and all these extra regulations then? Oh no, she said, so long as it doesn't go faster than 15 mph. I'm pretty damn sure she's wrong about that! She said she needed it because she has a lung condition, and that's a really big point. So long as the motors are governed to cut out at 15 mph, what does it matter how powerful they are? It just means you can get up steeper hills without half killing yourself, and makes it easier for disabled or older people. But I really don't think that thing is legal. (She told me she has some mechanism to get it in the car, but it must be something like the Berlingo to take it.)

Back to the parallel roads. I can't imagine how anyone could think they were man-made. It's so hard to know how much I would have worked out for myself because I had speed-read the information board before I really started to think about them, but to me they just screamed loch shores. Yes I could see that mythical explanations might exist (Fingal again, natch), but to imagine they were made by mundane people (even nobility) is nuts. People don't excavate roads several metres wide that far up the side of a glen, they travel near the bottom by the river. Obviously. There is no record of anyone ever using them for travel.

Darwin's sea-shore explanation seems wildly implausible too, because the lines are so straight and narrow. Hey, tides? And rough seas and breakers? These lines look so much like the level shoreline of a relatively calm loch. And if it was the sea, why not in all the other glens in the Highlands? And where are the sea-shells? But none of these things dissuaded him at first because it all fit with his pet theory. But eventually he had to give in.

I was hoping to find a series of maps showing the different loch heights based on modern OS mapping (it's so easy to understand when you have access to that). But all I could find were figurative landscape realisations that don't show it so well. If only the OS mappers had used a distinctive symbol for the shorelines instead of marking them as if they were tracks it could be obvious even on the normal OS map, but as it is it's very hard to differentiate them from all the normal tracks in a lot of places.

The best short explanation I found was this one.


The three loch levels being dictated by the heights of the three overspill cols (four if you count the 355-metre one where the top of Loch Gloy flowed down five metres into the top of Loch Roy above Turret Bridge) is the crucial point, which an entire BBC documentary I watched completely failed to mention.

I think the idea that the collapsing ice sheet allowed the water to drain "into Loch Ness and then into the North Sea" is just a mistake that is repeated in more than one article. The more thoughtful articles point out that the Great Glen was itself filled with ice at the time, one notes it as the (future) Great Glen, and diagrams that include it show "Loch Spean" being contiguous with Loch Lochy.

I usually have some reason to do the bike rides I choose, a literary reference or something, but I just picked Glen Roy off the OS map as being not too taxing and about the right length for a pleasant afternoon. I got more education than I bargained for.
 
I spent a fair amount of time today reading up about the parallel roads. I had seen them marked on the OS map just like any other forest or moorland track, except they could be seen to follow the contours, rather obviously didn't connect to anything, and were specifically labelled "parallel roads". I was vaguely curious about what they were. I had no idea they were so famous. I only decided to ride Glen Roy because it looked like a nice bike ride!

For the first third of the ride, to the viewpoint, I had no idea. Then I read the blurb at the viewpoint (not every word at that stage) and the penny dropped. The rest of the ride was interesting as I was imagining I was at the bottom of this huge, cold loch at various depths depending on where the lowest unblocked exit channel was at the time. It was also particularly pleasant because the road was closed to traffic beyond the viewpoint, as workmen were installing new concrete bridges over three of the burns coming down the hillside. It was possible to cycle over them though (or walk the bike), and when I got to the third one the men were actively working with a huge HGV parked solidly in the middle of the road. I asked if it was OK to take a bike round, and they said sure thing, on you go. But it meant that I wasn't going to encounter traffic.

It was slightly eerie in that the broken clouds were quite dense, so the atmosphere alternated between bright sunshine bathing the glen, and ominous gloom. Although like all these Highland roads it undulated, the gradient wasn't much and I only had to walk one section near the beginning. I didn't go beyond Turret Bridge where the tarred road ends, as I'd had enough of rough tracks the previous day, but from all I've read it might have been interesting and I might go back some day.

I met another woman on an e-bike, a pretty sturdy chunky affair. While I was pushing Hilda up the steep part near the beginning she rode past me almost effortlessly, motor humming. She didn't look like Superwoman, and I thought, what the heck? But when I was standing around the viewpoint she came back the other way and came over to talk. (She had only been part of the way up the glen.) She told me it should be possible to get a bike past the bridge repairs, and all about her great-grandfather who had had a farm there with about a bazillion sheep, but went bankrupt and it was now derelict. Not a word about the parallel roads though!

So I asked her. Is that bike of yours the standard 250 watt motor? Oh no, she said, I think it's 650 watts. Well that explained her zooming up that hill. So do you have to have insurance and road tax and wear a helmet and all these extra regulations then? Oh no, she said, so long as it doesn't go faster than 15 mph. I'm pretty damn sure she's wrong about that! She said she needed it because she has a lung condition, and that's a really big point. So long as the motors are governed to cut out at 15 mph, what does it matter how powerful they are? It just means you can get up steeper hills without half killing yourself, and makes it easier for disabled or older people. But I really don't think that thing is legal. (She told me she has some mechanism to get it in the car, but it must be something like the Berlingo to take it.)

Back to the parallel roads. I can't imagine how anyone could think they were man-made. It's so hard to know how much I would have worked out for myself because I had speed-read the information board before I really started to think about them, but to me they just screamed loch shores. Yes I could see that mythical explanations might exist (Fingal again, natch), but to imagine they were made by mundane people (even nobility) is nuts. People don't excavate roads several metres wide that far up the side of a glen, they travel near the bottom by the river. Obviously. There is no record of anyone ever using them for travel.

Darwin's sea-shore explanation seems wildly implausible too, because the lines are so straight and narrow. Hey, tides? And rough seas and breakers? These lines look so much like the level shoreline of a relatively calm loch. And if it was the sea, why not in all the other glens in the Highlands? And where are the sea-shells? But none of these things dissuaded him at first because it all fit with his pet theory. But eventually he had to give in.

I was hoping to find a series of maps showing the different loch heights based on modern OS mapping (it's so easy to understand when you have access to that). But all I could find were figurative landscape realisations that don't show it so well. If only the OS mappers had used a distinctive symbol for the shorelines instead of marking them as if they were tracks it could be obvious even on the normal OS map, but as it is it's very hard to differentiate them from all the normal tracks in a lot of places.

The best short explanation I found was this one.


The three loch levels being dictated by the heights of the three overspill cols (four if you count the 355-metre one where the top of Loch Gloy flowed down five metres into the top of Loch Roy above Turret Bridge) is the crucial point, which an entire BBC documentary I watched completely failed to mention.

I think the idea that the collapsing ice sheet allowed the water to drain "into Loch Ness and then into the North Sea" is just a mistake that is repeated in more than one article. The more thoughtful articles point out that the Great Glen was itself filled with ice at the time, one notes it as the (future) Great Glen, and diagrams that include it show "Loch Spean" being contiguous with Loch Lochy.

I usually have some reason to do the bike rides I choose, a literary reference or something, but I just picked Glen Roy off the OS map as being not to taxing and about the right length for a pleasant afternoon. I got more education than I bargained for.
I enjoyed your explanation. I’m in my tent at Laggan. It’s raining fairly hard just now but forecast to ease off in a couple of hours.
My number one bike’s in the Berlingo along with the battery from #2 as a spare so if it’s half decent tomorrow I might “do” the parallel roads trail. They certainly have engendered a lot of theories from magical to mysterious to geological wonders.
 
Which Laggan for crying out loud? I was getting bemused by the bloody things most of last week.

There's Laggan in between Loch Lochy and Loch Oich in the Great Glen.

There's Laggan north of Dalwhinnie on the A86.

There's Loch Laggan which is fairly close to that last one, although on the other side of the great watershed as all today's reading has confirmed. (The name of the col, Muckul - various spellings, could it just be Muckle? - isn't given on the OS map. I have a book about walking the great watershed, I must see if that's mentioned.)

There's Lagan a' Bhainne, the point on the Corrieyairack pass I had hoped to reach but in the end decided not to go so far. I presume you are not there.

So you're either in the Great Glen or close to the A9. I think. I'll bet there are more of them around. (Have you any idea how many Tarbet/Tarberts there are? Or Obans. I'm also getting confused between two Moys at the moment.) I don't even know what it means, although the guide to the Corrie Yairack suggests "dell", whatever the hell that is. Other than the name of my computer.

It's nine miles from the road-end to the Turret Bridge. The only part I had to walk was a stiff climb up from a bridge just about a mile in. I still had 38% left of my 250 watt-hour battery when I got back, and I wasn't trying to conserve it. There is a CPS charger right on the road-end and it was working yesterday. Also a nice wee tea-shop/restaurant that closes at four.

You can get past the bridge works with a bike. It's a really really nice ride. If you want to study the flooded valley system in serious depth, this is the itinerary for you.


By the way, I discovered when I got home that I had actually picked up midge bites, presumably on the last day (Glen Roy) or (more probably given the location of the bites) the last night up at Culachy. They're not really annoying but my knees look as if I have measles. And when I discovered the problem my anti-midge kit was inaccessible in the car which wasn't fully unpacked, still had the bike in it, and was in the garage on the charger. Sigh. So it would pay to take precautions still. I had all the kit and saw a few of the varmints, but thought there were so few they weren't worth bothering about. Silly me.
 
Well the what three words address is :-
fruity.somewhere.tonight
I kid you not, that square is the entrance to the Tigh an Each campsite at Balgowan just east of Laggan north of Dalwhinnie.
My own little square on the world’s surface bears the title :-
///sailor.wriggled.routs and the heavens are attempting to sweep me away in something akin to mr Noah’s reason for taking boatbuilding lessons. It’s fairly tiddlin’ doon right now. So I’m around an hour away and it’s supposed to be a better day. I’ll see what it’s like weather wise.
 
Well the what three words address is :-
fruity.somewhere.tonight
I kid you not, that square is the entrance to the Tigh an Each campsite at Balgowan just east of Laggan north of Dalwhinnie.
My own little square on the world’s surface bears the title :-
///sailor.wriggled.routs and the heavens are attempting to sweep me away in something akin to mr Noah’s reason for taking boatbuilding lessons. It’s fairly tiddlin’ doon right now. So I’m around an hour away and it’s supposed to be a better day. I’ll see what it’s like weather wise.
What 3 words
much underused tool
I love it

Oops wrong thread. ;)
 
@Archev, speak to us! Or do I have to drive up to Laggan and call out the mountain rescue team?
It’s OK I’m still here and breathing. I took laziness and haven’t even taken the bike out of the car. I just drove to Fort William and had a charge and a sandwich - sorry 😔
I’m back to the same campsite again for tonight. It’s a shame really as it has been a beautiful day with only a hint of a shower a couple of times.
I’ll see what tomorrow brings 🤩
 
That's the point. You do what you like. You don't have to be out there "making the most" of every single minute. Tomorrow morning looks nice, so if you got up early... No, what am I saying!
Nice try 🤩. Aye the forecast for rain tomorrow has been flip flopping between 11:00 and 14:00 all day today.
The sky just started leaking hard half an hour ago as I opened my Wayfarers pasta bolognaise. Don’t know where the rain’s coming from, there’s blue sky all round.
IMG_3939.webp
IMG_3940.webp
 
That's the point. You do what you like. You don't have to be out there "making the most" of every single minute. Tomorrow morning looks nice, so if you got up early... No, what am I saying!
Nice try 🤩. You just can’t get the adventurers sometimes.
Victory is thine 😃
 
Nice try 🤩. Aye the forecast for rain tomorrow has been flip flopping between 11:00 and 14:00 all day today.
The sky just started leaking hard half an hour ago as I opened my Wayfarers pasta bolognaise. Don’t know where the rain’s coming from, there’s blue sky all round. View attachment 40307View attachment 40306

I thought you got that van so you wouldn't have to sleep outside!
 
I like camping too!
But Mrs S does not...unless the tent has Premier Inn on the outside of it.

I used to read Famous Five as a kid and loved the idea of settling down in the heather for a night's kip.

I used to pretend that's what I was doing.

I have slept sans tent a couple of times in the garden and it took me straight back to that Enid Blyton book!
 
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