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MG Electric Vehicle Enthusiasts
MG Electric Vehicle Enthusiasts
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
Sorry, I thought you had already bought and tried another type 2 cable with no joy ?.
Does your local dealer have a working post so you can try your cable, then ask them if you can just borrow their cable to try on your car.
I can recommend a type 2 cable that I bought myself, with no problem at all.
But I would definitely go down the road of asking a local dealer about trying their all box / post first, before buying another one.
Here is the link to the one I bought a few years ago now.
Quality is very good TBF.
evonestop.co.uk
Does your local dealer have a working post so you can try your cable, then ask them if you can just borrow their cable to try on your car.
I can recommend a type 2 cable that I bought myself, with no problem at all.
But I would definitely go down the road of asking a local dealer about trying their all box / post first, before buying another one.
Here is the link to the one I bought a few years ago now.
Quality is very good TBF.
EV / Electric Car - Charging Cable - Type 2 to Type 2 | 32amp | 5m |
Premium fast PHEV EV Electric Car Vehicle Charging cable lead - Type 2 to Type 2 IEC62196 / Mennekes 16 amp 3.6 kW 5 meter cable tidy carry case
evonestop.co.uk
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G1zm0
Standard Member
arnold clark is tethered connections, I did buy another lead but it was a cheap one , so maby it was pants .
I .dont think they woukd let me and they havent for a post that needs a cable supplied .
I did try 3 different charging station ports and last time I tried an osprey post .
I .dont think they woukd let me and they havent for a post that needs a cable supplied .
I did try 3 different charging station ports and last time I tried an osprey post .
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
Okay - So you have a good idea that the Osprey unit works on your car.
If you are unsure if the cheap cable is effective, then I think you may have to bite the bullet and buy a good quality cable first.
Then when it arrives, identify it as the new cable with some tape and then go to the know good Osprey unit.
Try the new cable first and if it charges okay on that post, then you’re good to go.
Next time you need to charge, return to the very SAME post and try the cheap cable.
If it fails to charge, then you have proved it was the cheap cable and ditch it !.
In the mean time, you have the Granny as a fall back plan !.
A lot of manufacturers don’t supply EV’s with Granny units anymore, because most EV owners have a wall box and because they are slow.
We recently bought a MGS5 which is the replacement for the ZS EV.
It did not come with a Granny unit, it came with a type 2 lead instead.
I insisted on have a Granny unit instead, which they provided.
Will I ever use it ?.
No very unlikely, but they prove invaluable when this type of thing happens and you have a back up plan to hand.
Mine travels with me in the boot.
My brother had a similar problem with his untethered Rolec wall box when trying to charge his ZS EV one day.
Out of the blue,, it just refused to allow a charge and he was low on range.
He called in a panic and asked for some help.
I told him to try the Granny unit in the boot, he was not aware that the car had one !.
I worked just fine, it turned out that water had entered is type 2 plug and the car did not like the moisture it detected.
The box is badly exposed to the wind and the rain.
He replaced the cable with one in the link I sent you and ungraded the type hood that should protect the cable in bad weather.
Everybody had there own favourite between tethered or untethered, my personal choice is 7.5 mitre tethered cable on my wall box and a type 2 cable stored in the boot for public charging ( but never used in anger tbh ).
If you are unsure if the cheap cable is effective, then I think you may have to bite the bullet and buy a good quality cable first.
Then when it arrives, identify it as the new cable with some tape and then go to the know good Osprey unit.
Try the new cable first and if it charges okay on that post, then you’re good to go.
Next time you need to charge, return to the very SAME post and try the cheap cable.
If it fails to charge, then you have proved it was the cheap cable and ditch it !.
In the mean time, you have the Granny as a fall back plan !.
A lot of manufacturers don’t supply EV’s with Granny units anymore, because most EV owners have a wall box and because they are slow.
We recently bought a MGS5 which is the replacement for the ZS EV.
It did not come with a Granny unit, it came with a type 2 lead instead.
I insisted on have a Granny unit instead, which they provided.
Will I ever use it ?.
No very unlikely, but they prove invaluable when this type of thing happens and you have a back up plan to hand.
Mine travels with me in the boot.
My brother had a similar problem with his untethered Rolec wall box when trying to charge his ZS EV one day.
Out of the blue,, it just refused to allow a charge and he was low on range.
He called in a panic and asked for some help.
I told him to try the Granny unit in the boot, he was not aware that the car had one !.
I worked just fine, it turned out that water had entered is type 2 plug and the car did not like the moisture it detected.
The box is badly exposed to the wind and the rain.
He replaced the cable with one in the link I sent you and ungraded the type hood that should protect the cable in bad weather.
Everybody had there own favourite between tethered or untethered, my personal choice is 7.5 mitre tethered cable on my wall box and a type 2 cable stored in the boot for public charging ( but never used in anger tbh ).
G1zm0
Standard Member
if the charger has a lead built in then I think k it will work , ive not tried any other chargers .
when I plugged in the granny charger the battery in car was showing 36% and to.charge it to 100% it was going to take 17 hrs .
I was looking on ebay at cables and they are ones from land rover, porch and other makes , would these do? there about £40 used .
when I plugged in the granny charger the battery in car was showing 36% and to.charge it to 100% it was going to take 17 hrs .
I was looking on ebay at cables and they are ones from land rover, porch and other makes , would these do? there about £40 used .
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
The problem here is that you don't know how good the quality of these second hand cables really are ?.
You could end up right back where where you started.
EV's are not cheap, so why risk using a used one on your pride and joy.
The Granny lead gains it name from the fact that it is a bit slower in its pace / speed.
The cable has to be rated as 7kw 32amp, you can buy a 3.5kw 16amp cable but it will reduce the charging rate by about 50%.
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Jomarkh
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Any type2 to type2 single phase 32A will work
G1zm0
Standard Member
I played around with lead i have , it says 33amp.on it and I noticed the right side top pin is pushed in on the pod port end (unknown if its ment to be loke this , just seeing tip.of.it and shorter.that rest )
ive managed to get it to charge , but its charging at 3.1 kw.
its charging from 80 to 100% and taking 5 hrs to do it .
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
If your primary method of receiving a decent charge rate into your car, is extremely reliant on the public charging system, then its absolutely vital that you to have GOOD quality dependable 32Amp - 7kw Type 2 to Type 2 cable.
Your lower charging speed of only 3.5 kw's would be the Max carrying speed of the lower rated 16 Amp - 3.5 Kw lead, but you say it 32 Amps, which is odd ?.
Just a thought, when you where charging on the public post, was anybody else charging at the same time ?.
Especially from the same post as yourself, if so don't forget you will be sharing the charging capability, which will divide the rate to both cars until one car disconnects and the speed should ramp up again to 7 kw's ( as long as the post is working correctly that is ).
As a rough guide, for every hour you are connected to a post providing 7kw's, then you will put an extra 25 miles of range into the battery.
Your lower charging speed of only 3.5 kw's would be the Max carrying speed of the lower rated 16 Amp - 3.5 Kw lead, but you say it 32 Amps, which is odd ?.
Just a thought, when you where charging on the public post, was anybody else charging at the same time ?.
Especially from the same post as yourself, if so don't forget you will be sharing the charging capability, which will divide the rate to both cars until one car disconnects and the speed should ramp up again to 7 kw's ( as long as the post is working correctly that is ).
As a rough guide, for every hour you are connected to a post providing 7kw's, then you will put an extra 25 miles of range into the battery.
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
I would suggest that you try another post at a different location and you are still struggling on getting the charge to commence, or the speed is less than 7 kw's, then its a trip to the dealers unfortunately.
The will use the MG lap top to check for any charging issues and update the software first.
A third party EV garage can check the car for codes etc, but they will not be able to apply any updates to the car.
The will use the MG lap top to check for any charging issues and update the software first.
A third party EV garage can check the car for codes etc, but they will not be able to apply any updates to the car.
Lovemyev
Distinguished Member
Well….Thats a bit of a debatable question really tbh.
Normally, updates at the time of service are usually FOC.
They will first run a full system scan, which will throw up fault codes, if it detects any.
They will also check if there is any updates still outstanding against your VIN number.
Normally these would have been done at the time of the annual services.
Any outstanding updates will then be applied to your car.
But to do this, they need to be paid for the EV technicians time.
They are likely to tell you this, when you book the car in.
If you have a broken or no service history, then the dealer will be unable to claim the costs back from MG unfortunately.
If software updates are required, then this is the most cost effective option tbh.
Hopefully when you try a different post, the car will charge and be able to pull the Mac 7 kw’s
.
Normally, updates at the time of service are usually FOC.
They will first run a full system scan, which will throw up fault codes, if it detects any.
They will also check if there is any updates still outstanding against your VIN number.
Normally these would have been done at the time of the annual services.
Any outstanding updates will then be applied to your car.
But to do this, they need to be paid for the EV technicians time.
They are likely to tell you this, when you book the car in.
If you have a broken or no service history, then the dealer will be unable to claim the costs back from MG unfortunately.
If software updates are required, then this is the most cost effective option tbh.
Hopefully when you try a different post, the car will charge and be able to pull the Mac 7 kw’s
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