A while back I was faced with a similar issue with a Nissan 240K.
I contacted a mate who was active in the rally car scene and he offered this solution.
Remove the shock and drill a hole near the top of the stroke and drill a hole in it, be aware they are pressurized and will blow out when you drill through.
Drain the oil (cycle the stroke of the piston while inverted) and note the viscosity. Usually they are filled with "Motorcycle fork oil" viscosity is usually 10W (no heat modifier) and the volume of oil.
Tap the hole.
Rinse the inside to remove swarf.
Add the removed volume of oil with one of increased viscosity (we used 20W which was perfect) and plug the hole with a tyre valve with a base tapped to suit.
You can then pressurize the shock with nitrogen (for consistent performance as the shock warms) or just air. I used air, it was fine. (If you want to go just atmospheric pressure you can just plug the hole).
Experimentation will be required as I don't know what the original pressure was. In my case, we used atmospheric pressure which was fine. Adding air "Stiffens" the shock effectively increasing the spring rate. You could probably work the pressure out with the shock out of the car before modification by adding weight to work out the compression factor.
Best to muck around on a pair of extra shocks, either new or used. MG4 subframes and suspension look very similar, so maybe something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126524173478 would do for experimentation.
These comments relate mainly to the rear shocks, the main problem in my experience. My view is the factory front shocks would be sufficient if the rears were better. If you wanted the fronts done as well, I would recommend buying the KW set and modifying to retain the original springs.
I also would prefer to retain the standard ride height but I am going to install the KW set with the minimum lowering setting which is 15mm.