JimGS

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MGS5
I have had my S5 for a month and understood the full charge range to be 288 miles on the Trophy extended range variant, I am getting varying full charge ranges, today 280 miles, previous charge 294 miles other charges as low as 274, is anyone else getting similar?
 
Range displayed in ANY EV is just an estimation, and referred to by most as a Guessometer. The actual achieved range is dependant on driving style, speed, weather, hilliness, etc.
Don't worry, it is perfectly normal.
And the WLTP figure given is a specified test , not a promise.
 
I have had my S5 for a month and understood the full charge range to be 288 miles on the Trophy extended range variant, I am getting varying full charge ranges, today 280 miles, previous charge 294 miles other charges as low as 274, is anyone else getting similar?
As has been said it's just a best guess from previous journeys, if you had spent a few weeks just pottering about town and then did 100% charge it would likely be a high estimated range, it would soon adjust if you undertook a longish motorway type journey. You would see it drop quite quickly (losing more miles than you were actually doing) as it adjusted to your current journey type.
 
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I’m very new to EV’s and recently took delivery of an MG S5 EV Trophy ..
I do notice having A/C on impacts the displayed range .. By about 9 miles.
I've been advised that using the heated seats and steering wheel is better than using the A/C if you need the range, as this uses the 12V Battery .. Be interested to see how it manages over winter..
 
I’m very new the EV’s And recently took delivery of an MG S5 EV Trophy ..
I do notice having AC on impacts the displayed range .. By about 9 Miles
I've been advised that using the heated seats and steering wheel is better than using the AC if you need the range, as this uses the 12v Battery .. Be interested to see how it manages over winter..
Welcome to the forum.
You are correct that the heated seats and wheel are from the 12V battery but that is charged from the HV battery. Be interesting to see what you find works best.
 
I’m very new the EV’s And recently took delivery of an MG S5 EV Trophy ..
I do notice having AC on impacts the displayed range .. By about 9 Miles
I've been advised that using the heated seats and steering wheel is better than using the AC if you need the range, as this uses the 12v Battery .. Be interested to see how it manages over winter..
Winter range will take a hit due to the low temperatures in winter of course.
HV batteries are a bit like ourselves, they are not keen on cold weather and are a little unwilling to offer up their stored energy reserves 🤣.
The cabin heater is greedy in the amount of energy it takes from the traction battery TBF.
At full whack it can pull 7kW.
Heated seats and steering wheel is completely different.
It’s worth remembering here, that ICE cars are similar in this respect.
They are much less efficient at lower ambient temperatures and as a result, they consume more fuel.
EV’s are a bit like us in many respects, they perform better with the sun is out !.
When considering buying an EV it is important to consider this.
Will the range of this NEW EV car, suit my needs in coldest of winter conditions ?.
If the answer is - Yes !.
Then you have chosen wisely.
If it only matches your summer demands, then you are going to either struggle on long longer trips in the winter time, or just accept that you WILL be spending more time charging on route and therefore plan accordingly if required.
 
I've been advised that using the heated seats and steering wheel is better than using the A/C if you need the range, as this uses the 12V Battery...
The important thing is that the heated steering wheel and seats use far less power than the heater heating the entire cabin. The difference is likely more than 10:1.
 
I do notice having A/C on impacts the displayed range .. By about 9 miles.
That is 9 miles in total for a journey using 100% to 0% charge not 9 miles per journey.

What you need to ask yourself is do you want to be comfortable driving the car or do you need that few miles extra range and save yourself a few pennies in electricity, and those 9 miles could be recovered by changing your driving style if that extra range is important.

I just get in the car, turn the HVAC on and enjoy driving and don't worry about the range or how many kWh I'm using as it's a lot cheaper than an ICE car and I didn't worry about the economy then so why should I now 😁
 
My understanding is going up a hill uses far more battery than the amount of Regen when going back down the same hill.
On that basis I’m wondering on a long journey if it’s best to use low Regen and let the car cruise when coming off the accelerator. On high Regen you typically have to use more throttle to maintain speed. Any thoughts on what’s most economical?
 
I use adaptive regen and I’m averaging 4.3 mi/kWh this is mixed driving including fast roads and around town
 
My understanding is going up a hill uses far more battery than the amount of Regen when going back down the same hill.
On that basis I’m wondering on a long journey if it’s best to use low Regen and let the car cruise when coming off the accelerator. On high Regen you typically have to use more throttle to maintain speed. Any thoughts on what’s most economical?
On a motorway I use low regen, in town I use high.

The important thing for me when I switched was that I just wanted to drive the car the same as my old ice car.
I want to be comfortable (temp wise) so use the heating or AC as normal and I drive at the speed limit.

Some people I know wear extra layers and heep the heating low/ off in winter and cruise along at 60/65 on the motorway.
That for me just plays into the hands of the anti EV brigade, I drive as normal and charge when I need to, same as me old ice car
 
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On a motorway I use low regen, in town I use high.

The important thing for me when I switched was that I just wanted to drive the car the same as my old ice car.
I want to be comfortable (temp wise) so use the heating or AC as normal and I drive at the speed limit.

Some people I know wear extra layers and heep the heating low/ off in winter and cruise along at 60/65 on the motorway.
That for me just plays into the hands of the anti EV brigade, I drive as normal and charge when I need to, same as me old ice car
True. However I wear extra layers in winter anyway, irrespective of if I am driving. I pretty much drove mostly at 60 to 65 in my previous ICE anyway, often the motorway speed in the outside lane was no higher. Regarding heating or cooling. I will turn it on until the temp is comfortable. Once it is comfortbale for me and passengers, it doesnt need to remain permanently on to remain comfortable. Its mainly opening the doors that make a big change, from the convection effect. I will switch it on and off and change settings as necessary in the course of the journey. NB At home I do likewise. I dont blast the heat out or have the a/c (portable unit in lift office) on permanently.
 
Once it is comfortbale for me and passengers, it doesnt need to remain permanently on to remain comfortable
The heater in the car is very similar to using an electric fire in the house, its instant heat but when it’s turned off, the temperature will drop quickly.
There is no residual heat retained, like in an ICE car.
Getting the cabin up to a comfortable temperature, is when the heater is working flat out, holding that temperature when it is reached, is much easier.
So therefore turning it on & off maybe less efficient.
Having heated seats and steering wheel is a brilliant facility to have for almost instant heat, but if the air in the cabin is cold this does not make a comfortable place to be.
I guess you have to ask yourself this question?.
If I was driving a ICE car in this situation, would I have the heater on today ?.
If the answer is yes, then why should it be different, just because it’s an electric car ?.
When choosing an EV it’s import that you have a car that can meet your requirements in winter conditions, without making any compromises regarding heater use.
If you are constantly worried about the range of the car when driving in winter conditions and being comfortable in the cabin, then planning in more charging stops has to be strongly considered, or an EV with a bigger pack of course 👍.
 
My understanding is going up a hill uses far more battery than the amount of Regen when going back down the same hill.
On that basis I’m wondering on a long journey if it’s best to use low Regen and let the car cruise when coming off the accelerator. On high Regen you typically have to use more throttle to maintain speed. Any thoughts on what’s most economical?
Personally used low regen on out of town and high regen in town start/stop traffic, found snow was best on motorways, (low regen and light throttle once joined and just cruising.)

Hi comment re snow mode was for my MG4
 
my mg4 showed 302 range in summer but as the weather has been more autumnal 278 this morning !?
 
I use single pedal / Normal mode all the time now as I find it quite relaxed. So how does that compare with the other regeneration modes on a mixed journey? Currently get between 4.2 and 4.5 per charge.
 
On the open road high regen slows the car down too much and you use more power getting back up to speed than you save with regen. I use low regen on out of town journeys or just leave the car in default driving mode.
 
my mg4 showed 302 range in summer but as the weather has been more autumnal 278 this morning !?
Never pay much attention to my full charge GOM,as it's just based on the previous periods driving journey/style and will very quickly change if you undertake a longer faster drive.

I know with experience of the car and previous evs on mixed driving I have about 240-250 in milder weather and 185-195 in the winter.
I just base my journeys on that.
 
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