TimothyN

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We have had a lot of discussion on here on the importance of having a BS 1363/A socket installed if you are going to use a granny charger at a continuous 13 amps.

I did all the right things, got that installed, and imagine my surprise when it was actually the plug on the granny charger which melted. You would really think that they would have thought of that.

Looking carefully at that photograph, I see that it is /A.
 
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They are supposed to have a temperature sensor in the plug that turns them off if they overheat.

It looks like in your case the fuse wasn't up to the job.
 
The fuse and fuse holder are the real problem with granny chargers, even on your kettle you will find that the live pin is much hotter than the neutral pin after boiling a full kettle a few times. If you are pulling 10 amps for several hours then the heat from the 13amp fuse can be considerable and eventually increase the resistance between holder and fuse which could eventually cause arcing.
 
The protection fuse is intended to be the weakest point in the circuit, for safety reasons of course.
But in actual fact, you rarely see the fuse itself actually fail !.
I consider that the two thin clamping points that that retain the 13 Amp fuse inside the plug, to be the weakest point.
The three main contact posts of the plug are pretty substantial, but the fuse carrier clamping points themselves are pretty thin and therefore vulnerable.
The load passes through the live post, up through the fuse ( held by the thin clamping points ) then leaves via passing through the fuse itself and then onto the Granny unit.
Over repeated use and lengthy charging sessions, heat builds up around the area of the live pin itself and has to pass through those thin fuse retaining clamps.
Heat weakens / fatigues the material of the clamps and its ability to apply the same level of clamping force onto the fuse, and naturally it becomes weak and then compromised.
When this process commences, it’s only a matter of time before burning occurs to the casing of the three pin plug body.
Very rarely is this picked up by the owner, unless the plug is removed periodically from the outlet.
We are dealing with constant high load / demands over long periods of time.
It’s a similar situation on other high load appliances like microwaves / fast boil kettles and irons of course.
However, these items are only intended to be used for much shorter periods of time.
As battery packs get larger, then they need to be changed for longer periods of time of course.
This places a much higher strain on the electrical system used to provide the energy to the charger in the car.
Just to be clear here, so am not bashing owners who use Granny units.
This situation is not just isolated to the use of Granny units, although charging large packs over greater periods of time, will place a LOT strain on that unit without a doubt.
Wall boxes are better equipped to deal with the higher loads, but can also be vulnerable to the problems caused by heat build up equally.
There is enough evidence to support wall box overheating/ failure problems.
Purely speaking for myself here, I consider that if you intend to charge using a Granny unit regularly over longer period of time, you have to be super vigilant and do not become complacent with your regular safety checks.
If you are a low user case, or have a smaller battery pack, or a PHEV owner, then these Granny units are going to be mainly okay fundamentally.
If you are a higher user case and have a larger pack, then of course your risk of failure is increased massively.
Many manufacturers do not supply Granny units with their cars anymore, stating that the demand has fallen away due to the length of time they take to charge the car.
Although this is true, I can’t help but think there is other reasons why they are not encouraging there use anymore, if you get my drift.
 
That plug doesn't look compliant. It looks like the contacts for the fuse were not very good which caused it to heat up.

Definitely something you should get a decent brand for.

Thought it was. Back to me MG supplied one now, and no problems (so far) it's just a bit awkward with only having a 4m cable. Need at the very least a 5m.
Gonna do me homework on the next one I buy. 🙂👍
 
Over repeated use and lengthy charging sessions, heat builds up around the area of the live pin itself and has to pass through those thin fuse retaining clamps.
Heat weakens / fatigues the material of the clamps and its ability to apply the same level of clamping force onto the fuse, and naturally it becomes weak and then compromised.
When this process commences, it’s only a matter of time before burning occurs to the casing of the three pin plug body.
Very rarely is this picked up by the owner, unless the plug is removed periodically from the outlet.

This is a really helpful and thoughtful reply, thank you.

So there is an argument for prophylactically changing plugs and sockets very few months?
 
I see that one can supposedly charge at 13 amp, is that that what you found? I stick with 10 amp on my granny charger to reduce the heat build up.

I thought is was a 10 amp one I'm gonna have to make absolutely sure, on the next one I buy. 🙄
 
I thought is was a 10 amp one I'm gonna have to make absolutely sure, on the next one I buy. 🙄
Sorry, What I meant was did you select to charge at 13 amp if it was indeed capable of doing so. Just curious.
 
I thought is was a 10 amp one I'm gonna have to make absolutely sure, on the next one I buy. 🙄

I imagine that your charger will be fine. You could most likely replace the plug with a good quality replacement plug and select charging rate to 10 amps. And replace your single wall socket with a 1363/EV spec one.
 
I imagine that your charger will be fine. You could most likely replace the plug with a good quality replacement plug and select charging rate to 10 amps. And replace your single wall socket with a 1363/EV spec one.

Already replaced the socket to a 1363/EV socket, first thing I did. The charger was binned immediately, no way was I trusting that again. Will get another Granny Charger and make sure it's 10 amp. 👍
 
There are granny chargers available that have temperature sensors in the plug, these are far safer and will error and shutdown when excessive inlet (13 A) plug temperatures are observed.
In a quick search I found the Third Rock EV charger has this facility and is stated in both the features and specifications.
Looking at the cable between the plug and the electronics unit it will state something similar to: 3 X 2.5 + 2 X 1.5. 5 conductors in total. The 2.5 being the main conductors for L, N, E (2.5 mm sq) and the 2 X 1.5 the two sense wires for the embedded sensor in the plug.
The specifications for the unit I have included. There will be others too with this facility, I've shown the Third Rock unit as a guide.

13A_3kW_Portable_EV_Charger.webp
 
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