How do you turn off the heating

[admiralross2400]

This is probably dead easy and I'm just being daft...but the manual isn't really clear. How do you turn off the heating and AC so it's not drawing power, but leave the fan on and not have the air recirculating. When I press the power button to turn it off, it switches to recirculation mode and if I turn that off I'm not convinced it's not turning other bits back on.

Hope that makes sense

 

[pjmuk]

You just turn the temperature down to low, then set the air direction and fan speed to suit

 

[admiralross2400]

Ahh perfect. That makes sense. I didn't know if low just set cooling on the AC to max . Cheers for that. Might eek a but more miles/kWh (currently averaging about 3.1/3.2).

 

[Alb]

It will cool at that setting but only if you decide to switch the A/C on.

 

[Alb]

Another solution would be to swap your car with @iainfm

 

[iainfm]

Another solution would be to swap your car with @iainfm

Came here to check if there was a way to switch it off, and therefore there was a way to switch it on!

 

[admiralross2400]

Well it definitely worked. Turned it off and did an 11.2 mile ride and only used 5% so looks like my range has went from about 160/170 to 220ish. Cheers all!

 

[StEvnut]

Ahh perfect. That makes sense. I didn't know if low just set cooling on the AC to max . Cheers for that. Might eek a but more miles/kWh (currently averaging about 3.1/3.2).

Changing the thread slightly- started to get low on power a couple of times on a long run and range needed to get to a charge point or home. Switched off a/c and heating and slowed down but with wife , luggage, 2 damp dogs and wet coats I wasn’t popular! Windows just steam up!! Having said that I’ve learned to plan for less range and just get on with driving normally. Everyone happy! Average now 3.0m / Kw over 1400 miles on a long return trip from Scotland to the S coast of England, motorway speeds, and some local A & B roads. Cold temperatures and hills etc.
Just thought it might help some new members to know what the real winter consumption is. Not to bad. I’ve heard worse from other much more expensive manufacturers.

 

[Rookery]

Changing the thread slightly- started to get low on power a couple of times on a long run and range needed to get to a charge point or home. Switched off a/c and heating and slowed down but with wife , luggage, 2 damp dogs and wet coats I wasn’t popular! Windows just steam up!! Having said that I’ve learned to plan for less range and just get on with driving normally. Everyone happy! Average now 3.0m / Kw over 1400 miles on a long return trip from Scotland to the S coast of England, motorway speeds, and some local A & B roads. Cold temperatures and hills etc.
Just thought it might help some new members to know what the real winter consumption is. Not to bad. I’ve heard worse from other much more expensive manufacturers.

You are absolutely right when it's cold I work on a range of 170 miles as worst case scenario.
Turn off the heating with the heat control knob just push it down but your car will steam up.

 

[admiralross2400]

You are absolutely right when it's cold I work on a range of 170 miles as worst case scenario.
Turn off the heating with the heat control knob just push it down but your car will steam up.

Turning it off with the button just puts it on recirculation mode and turns off the fans so it will steam up. If you turn the dial all the way to the left till it gets to "lo" then the heater is off, you can then turn the fan speed to its lowest setting. Make sure to turn off the AC too. I find this gets me up to 4/5 miles/kWh. But running with heating on still gets me about 3 even on a motorway, so not too big a deal unless you're worried about getting that extra 30/40 miles.

 

[Rookery]

Turning it off with the button just puts it on recirculation mode and turns off the fans so it will steam up. If you turn the dial all the way to the left till it gets to "lo" then the heater is off, you can then turn the fan speed to its lowest setting. Make sure to turn off the AC too. I find this gets me up to 4/5 miles/kWh. But running with heating on still gets me about 3 even on a motorway, so not too big a deal unless you're worried about getting that extra 30/40 miles.

Thanks for that I'll give it a go.

 

[glwday]

I’ve heard it said that the USB uses 12v power, might this be a way of getting heat without sacrificing range? 2-in-1 Car Heater | Coopers of Stortford

 

[Dave53]

I’ve heard it said that the USB uses 12v power, might this be a way of getting heat without sacrificing range? 2-in-1 Car Heater | Coopers of Stortford

The main batteries charge the 12v so not sure you would save much with a heavy use 12v heater

 

[aread2]

USB supplies quite low power:

USB 1, 1.1 and 2 supply 0.5A (x 5v = 2.5 Watts)
USB 3 standard supplies 0.9A, charging can supply 1.5A ( x 5v = 7.5 Watts)

The 12v Socket is probably fused at 10A ( x 12v = 120 Watts), or possibly 15A ( x 12v = 180 Watts)

And of course it all comes from the main batteries anyway.

If you've got the Exclusive, then heated seats typically put out about 50 Watts.

 

[glwday]

Thanks, I just find there’s a limit to how many minutes I can bear to have the heated seat on, and of course it doesn’t heat my fingers or feet!

 

[iainfm]

For info, having tried running a 120W ptc heater from the 12V socket today, I would not recommend pulling that sort of current from it for long. The plug got extremely hot, despite being rated at 15A!

 

[Kithmo]

For info, having tried running a 120W ptc heater from the 12V socket today, I would not recommend pulling that sort of current from it for long. The plug got extremely hot, despite being rated at 15A!

Are you sure it's not a 150W heater, I couldn't find any below 150W when I was looking a few years back for one for my Prius.
You should be ok at 120W, according to page 56 of the manual. (although at the recommended limit).
"Note: The voltage of the front console power socket is 12 volt, and the power rating is 120 watt. Do Not use electrical equipment with the power exceeding the rating."
FWIW The fuse is 15A which means it'll take 180W before it blows

 

[Ozzie1989]

Are you sure it's not a 150W heater, I couldn't find any below 150W when I was looking a few years back for one for my Prius.
You should be ok at 120W, according to page 56 of the manual. (although at the recommended limit).
"Note: The voltage of the front console power socket is 12 volt, and the power rating is 120 watt. Do Not use electrical equipment with the power exceeding the rating."
FWIW The fuse is 15A which means it'll take 180W before it blows

The fuse rating is often higher to prevent excessive heat build up in the fuse box (thus posing a fire risk in itself). A 10amp fuse running at 10amp will get very hot quite quickly, and after several longer times at this temperature will start to weaken the fuse, thus creating a higher resistance causing more heat again.

By fusing at 15a the manufacturer is still protecting the cabling from a complete short circuit or obvious overload (as the cable can handle this for a short period of time easily) and by putting in the book 10a 120w maximum they are protecting themselves if you abuse that and set fire to your car

Now the alternative that I'm surprised no-one has mentioned yet is heated bikers gear. This plugs into the 12v socket on the bike to keep the rider warm in winter. My mate has a set of leggings, long sleeve vest type top, gloves and insoles. They all interlink with a cable coming out at the gloves that he connects to the 12v socket adaptor. A set however will set you back £300+ and you can even get battery operated ones now.

 

[iainfm]

Are you sure it's not a 150W heater, I couldn't find any below 150W when I was looking a few years back for one for my Prius.
You should be ok at 120W, according to page 56 of the manual. (although at the recommended limit).
"Note: The voltage of the front console power socket is 12 volt, and the power rating is 120 watt. Do Not use electrical equipment with the power exceeding the rating."
FWIW The fuse is 15A which means it'll take 180W before it blows

Yes, well, it was advertised as 120W. It's a ptc+fan module in a plastic housing. I've no idea what it's meant for to be honest.

I guess 12V @10A would be OK, but 14V @ 10A may be pushing things a little?

 

[Ozzie1989]

Yes, well, it was advertised as 120W. It's a ptc+fan module in a plastic housing. I've no idea what it's meant for to be honest.

I guess 12V @10A would be OK, but 14V @ 10A may be pushing things a little?

If it's a 120w heater then it will draw 10a at 12v but only 8.57a at 14v.

Divide Watts by Voltage to get Amps (sorry if I'm teaching to suck eggs!)