MG5 LR (Pre Facelift) Seized Front Wheels

Keith Lawder

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New member here. I've got an MG 5 LR (pre facelift 21 plate) which has both front alloy wheels apparently seized to the hubs.

This car is relatively new to me. I bought it in August 2023 from its first owner. It has so far run like a dream. On purchase I saw that the front tyres (Nexen N'blues - explained to me as 'original when the car was new') were getting close to the legal limit. The rears - oddly Bridgestones - were in better condition, but still getting reasonably close to replacement. When I picked up some nail damage on the front nearside the other day leaving me with a flat, it felt like the road gods were reminding me that it was time, and rather than getting one repaired I opted to replace all 4 with Goodyear Vector 4-season Gen 3s from Halfords.

My Halfords mobile fitter replaced the rears easily, but was unable to replace the front tyres because both of the alloy wheels are seized to the hubs. They could not be removed by any reasonable manual method once the bolts were out. He didn't want to use excessive force to free them and possibly damage the hubs or brakes. He kindly refunded me the fitting fee and suggested that I should raise the issue with my local MG dealer as a possible warranty repair.

I've spoken to MG (Lookers in Brighton) who said the earliest they can get me into the service bay is on 20 November! (I wasn't the happiest bunny at that point.) They also said they had never heard of this issue. So - questions please to forum members: has this ever happened to you? If so, how did it get sorted and was that under warranty? If not - ball park how much might this cost to fix?

I am currently weighing up whether to stick with Lookers MG on the possibility that this might be a warranty repair but have my car out of service for three weeks while I wait, or take it to an independent garage for repair, where (cost aside) I would hope to have the car back on the road by the middle of next week. Any insights to help this decision gratefully received.
 
Loosen wheel nuts a bit (but not removed) and then slowly lower wheel back onto ground, maintaining some support with the jack ;)
 
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Loosen wheel nuts a bit (but not removed) and then slowly lower wheel back onto ground, maintaining some support with the jack ;)
Thanks Tommy - tried w my Halfords guy already. No joy. I would've expected that to sort the issue, but they both stayed stuck.
 
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For info, on a 21 plate at least the Bridgestones will be original but the nexen will not be. The wait for a dealer appointment seems to be universally long.
 
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For info, on a 21 plate at least the Bridgestones will be original but the nexen will not be. The wait for a dealer appointment seems to be universally long.
Thanks - interesting... as if it the car had all 4 Bridgestones when showroom new then i) I was told mildly mis-advised on purchase; and ii) the first front Bridgestones and then the replacement front Nexens have burned through pretty fast. Here's hoping the Goodyears 4 seasons will hold up on the front a little longer than their predecessors did? (Goodyears seem to get good write-ups elsewhere on here.) On the MG dealer workshop wait - the fact that that is normal elsewhere and not just a Brighton thing helps me reconcile myself to it.
 
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What mileage is on the car? You could easily get through a set of fronts in 10-12k.
When I removed my wheels there were signs of corrosion and I put some copper grease on the surfaces.
28k. So on that record two front to one rear set of tyres sounds about right. And thanks for the copper grease tip. I'll guess that corrosion lies at the heart of this.
 
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As a patrol for a large breakdown company this is such a common issue with most manufacturers. The fact the Halfords fitter couldn't get them off is fairly poor. Take it to any good/reputable tyre fitting company and they will fit them for you. A little copper grease between the wheel and hub will prevent it happening again.
 
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It is quite common. Take a look at this thread:
There's no protection added at manufacture but funnily enough, it is part of the service routine.
 
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As a patrol for a large breakdown company this is such a common issue with most manufacturers. The fact the Halfords fitter couldn't get them off is fairly poor. Take it to any good/reputable tyre fitting company and they will fit them for you. A little copper grease between the wheel and hub will prevent it happening again.
That's reassuring to know, as my previous mug-punter experience of this with other cars has been that I put the vehicle up on the jack, loosen the nots or bolts and the wheel pops off. I will definitely make sure that they're greased moving forward.

It is quite common. Take a look at this thread:
There's no protection added at manufacture but funnily enough, it is part of the service routine.
Thank you. Noted and they'll be greased moving forward.
 
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Its a common problem, copper slip grease will stop it happening. I've just done the F/Brake pads on my mates Reno Kadjar 69 plate the fronts were stuck fast, so a soak with penetrating oil spray and a lump hammer and a block of wood worked in the end. My nieghbours Skoda had the same issue last year aswell.
 
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Its a common problem, copper slip grease will stop it happening. I've just done the F/Brake pads on my mates Reno Kadjar 69 plate the fronts were stuck fast, so a soak with penetrating oil spray and a lump hammer and a block of wood worked in the end. My nieghbours Skoda had the same issue last year aswell.
Thanks Malcolm - that's reassuring. My instinct had been to try the wood block and lump hammer trick after penetrating oil, but not having had this happen before, wisdom of others before starting is a good thing.

And for other readers - this question is hopefully now solved. Assuming I can free the wheels myself this weekend, I'll go to a proper tyre shop to get the two front tyres fitted. This was a first try with 'on the drive' fitters and it'll be a while before I travel that road again.
 
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Thanks Malcolm - that's reassuring. My instinct had been to try the wood block and lump hammer trick after penetrating oil, but not having had this happen before, wisdom of others before starting is a good thing.

And for other readers - this question is hopefully now solved. Assuming I can free the wheels myself this weekend, I'll go to a proper tyre shop to get the two front tyres fitted. This was a first try with 'on the drive' fitters and it'll be a while before I travel that road again.
Glad to help Keith. My neighbours Skoda Fabia’s had a slow puncture on its o/s/r and the wheel was so badly stuck, we had to remove the wheel bolts and leave the thing jacked up all night soaked in penetrating oil. The wood block and lump worked after the soaking in the end, mind your knuckles on suspension parts when taking a swing, its difficult to aim when your laying on your side.
 
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This situation is common when the centre boss of the alloy wheel come into close contact with a the dissimilar wheel hub that is made of mild steel.
As it caused by the condition that @Alb has already posted above.
When I take delivery of a new car that is fitted with alloy wheels, one job is to remove each wheel one by one.
Then clean any rust / corrosion that has formed on the hub or the centre boss of the alloy wheel.
Apply a thin layer of anti seize grease of your choice to hub and the alloy wheel boss and refit.
This simple process will prevent any further problems when it comes to removing wheels in the future.
If manufactures followed this process when the car was first built, there would not be any issues at a later date.
Some cars are sitting around for months and months before they get shipped, so the corrosion process has already started.
In most cases, the first time the wheels will get removed, is when the tyres need replacing.
This could be as long as two years in some cases, by now the corrosion has time to build up.
Here is just a couple of methods you could try ?.

Remove a Stuck Alloy Rim Without Damage


 
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A follow-up to thank those who posted here for your help. Both wheels freed using suggested methods and tyres then fitted using a local tyre shop, without needing to wait for an MG service appointment. Copper grease used. The only outstanding issue now is the fitting fee refund from Halfords.
 
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