MG5 LR (Pre Facelift) Seized Front Wheels

Keith Lawder

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Brighton UK
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New member here. I've got an MG 5 LR (pre facelift 21 plate) which has both front alloy wheels apparently seized to the hubs.

This car is relatively new to me. I bought it in August 2023 from its first owner. It has so far run like a dream. On purchase I saw that the front tyres (Nexen N'blues - explained to me as 'original when the car was new') were getting close to the legal limit. The rears - oddly Bridgestones - were in better condition, but still getting reasonably close to replacement. When I picked up some nail damage on the front nearside the other day leaving me with a flat, it felt like the road gods were reminding me that it was time, and rather than getting one repaired I opted to replace all 4 with Goodyear Vector 4-season Gen 3s from Halfords.

My Halfords mobile fitter replaced the rears easily, but was unable to replace the front tyres because both of the alloy wheels are seized to the hubs. They could not be removed by any reasonable manual method once the bolts were out. He didn't want to use excessive force to free them and possibly damage the hubs or brakes. He kindly refunded me the fitting fee and suggested that I should raise the issue with my local MG dealer as a possible warranty repair.

I've spoken to MG (Lookers in Brighton) who said the earliest they can get me into the service bay is on 20 November! (I wasn't the happiest bunny at that point.) They also said they had never heard of this issue. So - questions please to forum members: has this ever happened to you? If so, how did it get sorted and was that under warranty? If not - ball park how much might this cost to fix?

I am currently weighing up whether to stick with Lookers MG on the possibility that this might be a warranty repair but have my car out of service for three weeks while I wait, or take it to an independent garage for repair, where (cost aside) I would hope to have the car back on the road by the middle of next week. Any insights to help this decision gratefully received.
 
Useful to know, had my tyres switch front to back when I bought the car (1 year old) & the dealer replaced the rears for free once they saw the tread was low so might pop them off to check they have been greased.
 
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Never had a problem with seized wheels
But I have had 3 different sets of alloys on my 5 in 2 years
πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
IMG_7536.jpeg

IMG_7787.jpeg

IMG_1347.jpeg
 
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Your latest appear larger and with lower profile tyres. Hs it made any noticeable difference anywhere.

Hi
They are 18” with 40 series tyres
I haven’t really noticed any difference range / road noise seems the same
Seems to handle slightly better with the wider tyres
My shed is a little fuller
Just waiting on someone to buy the wheels and tyres in the second photo βšͺ️βšͺοΈπŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
 
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Nice wheels! How do you go about finding wheels that will fit?
Hi
The the wheels in the middle photo are 16” and come with oem tyres are for sale
The stud pattern to look for is 5x112
Then the offset is how much the wheels stick out
The 18” wheels (last photo ) are
5x112
34mm offset
8.5” wheel width
235/40/18 tires
They sit level with the arches
πŸ˜ƒπŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»
IMG_1344.jpeg
 
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I've had a search and couldn't find MG4 specific seizing problems, which surprised me as I thought we would all, (as a brand) probably run into this issue.

Anyway, I popped all my wheels off just now, and they all fell away easily.
I've only done 2600 miles (which might be the reason) but gave them all a smidgeon of copper ease on the wheel faces, then put them back on.
Also gave the bolts a little smidge to be sure.

20231121_121029.jpg


Yes. I could have cleaned the inside of the wheels.
No. I really couldn't be bothered🀣
 
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On the threads?
I imagine your going to say I shouldn't have?
I've done it on all my cars (and my customers cars when I was a retail mechanic) and never had an issue.
I also use a quality Torque Wrench to torque up the wheel bolts, which is the most important thing to do IMO.

Picture of me in my garage 2012.

phone stuff nov 2012 529.jpg
 
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Torque specs are invariably for dry threads so yes, it is the wrong way to do it if you don't want to over-torque the bolt.
 
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I appreciate your concern. I really do.
Weren't you recently worried about my car ramps? πŸ€£πŸ‘
(friendly laugh, not a piss taking one)

But a tiny smidgeon is not nearly enough to affect my torque settings.

Anyway, how do you like my 3 ton jack
eh? Much safer πŸ‘

20231121_120314.jpg
 
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