Paulie's MG5 upgrades blog, Wheels, Suspension, Foot rest, & much more!

[Alibro]

So today I followed your example (sort of ) and removed the stupid lump of foam they called a foot rest.

I just pulled off the plastic panel, pulled back the carpet and ripped out the block of foam, then pushed the carpet down as flat as I could and refitted the panel. I't is nowhere near as neat as your upgrade but I just wanted to see how it felt with no foot rest. TBH I think it needs something so I'll have another look at it again at the weekend.

 

[Gomev]

I think my issue with the footrest was that it was not wide enough.

 

[Alibro]

I think my issue with the footrest was that it was not wide enough.

So unfortunately removing the lump of foam and pushing the carpet out of the way resulted in discomfort through lack of support. Who'd a thunk it?
So today I cut a piece of foam similar in shape but a bit smaller and jammed it in behind the rubber foot rest in the carpet. I haven't tested it on a long journey yet but so far so good. The carpet still wants to sit in it's original position but squashes down when I push against it so it feels much better than the factory position.

 

[Paulie68]

I've recovered some from my Hernia operation, so up to doing very light tasks now.

Started by finishing the rear number plate change.

Started with some careful measuring and marking up for the planned plate placement with masking tape. Then applied the double sided tape, 2 layers of this to clear the raised bolt mounting holes.

The mounting holes were also sealed using clear external tape as we don't want water leaking into the tailgate through these. Difficult to see in the above pic, so here's a blow up.

End result, as it should be, no spare holes hidden by an afterthought plastic trim.

Again, the tip for all when fitting number plates with adhesive pads. It goes without saying that it needs to be done in dry conditions only and surfaces should be perfectly clean and free of any wax etc. Best to wipe the area over with an alcohol solution/wipes before starting, but for perfect adhesion every time, use a heat gun (or hairdryer if you don't have one) to get the surface nice and warm before applying the adhesive tape. Then do the same to warm the rear of the plate immediately before setting it onto the tape.

 

[Paulie68]

Back to the foot rest for a moment...

Bad news here, I've found that my solution is still not quite right. Although much better than the intolerable, original rest position, it's now too flat and I'm finding on longer trips the total lack of support under my ankle is annoying me, so I need it set higher for some support. Having test driven with a temporary wedge taped on top of the rest, I've found the sweet spot, so need to remove and re-work the new rest to get it to the angle as shown below. So that's the next little job. (I really hate doing the same job twice! )

 

[Alibro]

Back to the foot rest for a moment...

Bad news here, I've found that my solution is still not quite right. Although much better than the intolerable, original rest position, it's now too flat and I'm finding on longer trips the total lack of support under my ankle is annoying me, so I need it set higher for some support. Having test driven with a temporary wedge taped on top of the rest, I've found the sweet spot, so need to remove and re-work the new rest to get it to the angle as shown below. So that's the next little job. (I really hate doing the same job twice! )

View attachment 34536

When I saw your first plan I though it was great but after trying to live with nothing for a few days I wondered if you'd gone too far. My solution (rip out the polystyrene block and replace it with a smaller one) is fairly close but the carpet is still in the original position and pushing it down is a pain so I'll need to do something more like yours.

 

[Paulie68]

Not been doing anything much to the car except using it, due to buying another house and renovating it. Damn thing has all but taken over my entire life!

Anyway, did squeeze in a silly little task today to correct something that's been bothering me since I bought it. The body panel alignment on this car is generally excellent throughout, except for the tailgate which has never sat right, with the shut lines at the right hand side sitting about 2mm behind the side panel which also made the area where the inner and outer R/H side rear lights meet look naff.

So I worked out the issue, the rear R/H hinge needed moving back about 2mm. Two options here, the way I did it, adjusting between the hinge and tailgate itself using suitable shims, or adjusting the hinge to body. I discounted the latter as it would mean dropping the headliner, disturbing the hinge to body seal, and I don't know how much adjustment is actually available here. If the mounting hole isn't sufficiently slotted, it might involve filing, which in turn would mean a whole new can of worms and more dismantling.

So the easy option it was, loosen the hinge, slide in a couple of stainless steel M6 washers, 2mm thick x 20mm diameter.

Like an idiot I didn't take a before picture but here is the end result. Perfect shut lines now!

 

[MG Clive]

Good work @Paulie68, I really like this kind of engineering.

 

[skikky]

So I've actually been stalking this thread for a little while and thought I'd like to join in.
Has anyone started off with any 3D printable covers for the wheels to reduce wheel drag?
There's lots for this for the Nissan Leaf but nada for the MG5.
I was going to steal a friend to help me make aero covers if no one else has, in particular for the very ugly looking 16 inchers.

 

[Archev]

So I've actually been stalking this thread for a little while and thought I'd like to join in.
Has anyone started off with any 3D printable covers for the wheels to reduce wheel drag?
There's lots for this for the Nissan Leaf but nada for the MG5.
I was going to steal a friend to help me make aero covers if no one else has, in particular for the very ugly looking 16 inchers.

Do you mean the “spoked” style alloy wheels ?
I think they’re the smartest wheels ever.
Each to their own

 

[skikky]

Do you mean the “spoked” style alloy wheels ?
I think they’re the smartest wheels ever.
Each to their own
View attachment 39091

Precisely those!! I think they're super awful looking compared to my old car. I think covering them up a little with some aero covers to make the wheel flat would look nicer whilst simultaneously increasing efficiency by ~5% if Tesla and Nissan can be believed

 

[Archev]

Precisely those!! I think they're super awful looking compared to my old car. I think covering them up a little with some aero covers to make the wheel flat would look nicer whilst simultaneously increasing efficiency by ~5% if Tesla and Nissan can be believed

You’re wrong but enjoy the Aeros and post some pictures if you go that way.

 

[Paulie68]

So I've actually been stalking this thread for a little while and thought I'd like to join in.
Has anyone started off with any 3D printable covers for the wheels to reduce wheel drag?
There's lots for this for the Nissan Leaf but nada for the MG5.
I was going to steal a friend to help me make aero covers if no one else has, in particular for the very ugly looking 16 inchers.

The facelift lower spec car already has Aero covers on 16" wheels. The earlier model 16" wheels are a bit "busy" for any sort of clip in aero covers between spokes I'd think.

 

[Paulie68]

I'm going to call in to my local MG dealer this afternoon to start the ball rolling regarding a warranty claim for my corroding wheels (all 4) and rust developing and spreading shockingly fast under the bonnet around all the pressed holes. Not happy, the car is just over 8 months old with 5k miles on it, so very poor show. Hoping the dealer and MG deal with this properly, I'll let you all know later today...

 

[skikky]

The facelift lower spec car already has Aero covers on 16" wheels. The earlier model 16" wheels are a bit "busy" for any sort of clip in aero covers between spokes I'd think.

Honestly I didnt know that. Its probably likely theyre also 16" 6.5 I imagine, but I dont fancy spending that much on a new set of wheels
I've got a sparkle of an idea in my head. Need to get a scan of the alloy first and then I'll see if the idea I have works

 

[skikky]

I'm going to call in to my local MG dealer this afternoon to start the ball rolling regarding a warranty claim for my corroding wheels (all 4) and rust developing and spreading shockingly fast under the bonnet around all the pressed holes. Not happy, the car is just over 8 months old with 5k miles on it, so very poor show. Hoping the dealer and MG deal with this properly, I'll let you all know later today...

Oh man, hopefully you can get that sorted. I'm guessing its a facelift given its age?
My pre facelift is coming up 3 years old very soon and no signs of even surface corrosion, so I think I got lucky

 

[Paulie68]

Oh man, hopefully you can get that sorted. I'm guessing its a facelift given its age?
My pre facelift is coming up 3 years old very soon and no signs of even surface corrosion, so I think I got lucky

Yes, only 8 months old. The wheels, I don't care as I'm changing to a style I like better and selling them on, so just need them corrosion free to sell, but the under bonnet is upsetting me as it's clearly made from untreated and minimally painted steel. (at least the under panel anyway) I've not seen such fast rusting and spreading from hole edges since the old days pre the use of zinc coated steels, many years ago now.

 

[Gomev]

Precisely those!! I think they're super awful looking compared to my old car. I think covering them up a little with some aero covers to make the wheel flat would look nicer whilst simultaneously increasing efficiency by ~5% if Tesla and Nissan can be believed

Personally, and it's always down to personal taste, is that I have never seen a flat aero cover that is nicer looking than an alloy.
Oh and is the supposed 5% (maybe nothing) actually worth all the effort and expense. As a project to keep yourself amused maybe but practically/financially ???

 

[skikky]

Personally, and it's always down to personal taste, is that I have never seen a flat aero cover that is nicer looking than an alloy.
Oh and is the supposed 5% (maybe nothing) actually worth all the effort and expense. As a project to keep yourself amused maybe but practically/financially ???

Yeah I'm just not a fan of the spoked alloys personally, they look a bit weird for my liking.
The covers would just be 3d printed, so no real cost outside of filament. PETG, ABS and ASA all cost about £18 for 1kg of filament.
But yeah that 5% is a free 10 miles, so may as well, since I've not got much on haha

 

[mechanikaldan]

Yeah I'm just not a fan of the spoked alloys personally, they look a bit weird for my liking.
The covers would just be 3d printed, so no real cost outside of filament. PETG, ABS and ASA all cost about £18 for 1kg of filament.
But yeah that 5% is a free 10 miles, so may as well, since I've not got much on haha

You could get a set of lightweight aero wheels in 5x112. Rotiform maybe? Or vw steel wheels with an aero wheel trim?