Reverse Camera SE LR

[BrownChair]

The box doesn't support AHD. If you look at the description of 99.19ï¿¡ 50% OFF|Rear Camera For SAIC Motor MG4 MG MULAN Reverse Cam Decoder With Dynamic Guideline Backup Car Interface Box - the seller has "This box only supports CVBS camera.It is not as clear as AHD. But it's enough for daily use."

 

[Edd Beesley]

Yea, I had to replace the full cable from the glovebox to the camera.

I replaced the existing camera with the new one, ran the new cable from the glovebox to the camera, and cut the orange wire on the camera to make CVBS mode as I ordered the 1080P version. The hole required for the new camera is bigger than the previous one, so I had make the whole bigger.

One thing I did differently from you is that I never removed the spoiler. I just thread the camera wire from outside hole through the existing hole on the inside where reverse wire come through. - the wire you are pointing at here

The new cable is very similar to the old one. On the glovebox side, its the same yellow RCA connector that goes into the video plug with a power wire forking out which goes in the same pink power wire. On the camera side, its the 4 pin small connecter

I want to mount the camera without removing the spoiler - sounds like the cable can be threaded but how did you tighten up the nut on the back of the camera? I was wondering if I could reach inside by removing the number plate light but I can’t see how that’s done, either?

 

[BrownChair]

I want to mount the camera without removing the spoiler - sounds like the cable can be threaded but how did you tighten up the nut on the back of the camera? I was wondering if I could reach inside by removing the number plate light but I can’t see how that’s done, either?

I didn't use the bolt. Instead, when drilling the hole, i made it slightly smaller so that the thread of the camera would "screw" into the hole. It's tightly screwed in and so I didn't feel the need for a bolt

 

[DixieTGS]

I was wondering about the bolt too and in the end decided to remove the spoiler. Right close to where the camera comes through there is a sort of oval hole (15mm approx) in the metal which is covered by a 50mm rubber patch on the other side. You could break the patch for better access but still don't think you could usefully tighten the nut to any degree.

Also in that area you may find the wiring looms are different to the video. Mine has an equal number of wires in each of the body to boot lid corrugated hoses.

I think there is a 99% chance of me damaging the other cables trying to get the phono connector through them, which would be really bad as I think some of them are aerial leads .

After looking at other options I decided I had to cut the phono off. I'll find out if the video is degraded when I solder them back together on another day. On the plus side I used the left hose and didn't have to route under the seats.

If I had a sleeve expander of a large enough diameter and length, that may have done the job. Looking on line it would cost about £55. The searches also brought up animal castration rubbers pliers for about £15 which had good diameter and 4 prongs, but small length. Also they didn't look quite man enough .

Regarding the troublesome white connectors on the spoiler removal: There is a latch on the right of the side facing you and another on the left of the side facing away. You can just use a screwdriver to release the front ones and tilt the spoiler a little to get the latch in to the hole.

For the rear latch on the RHS of the car it is angled a bit towards you and a screwdriver can be used with a bit of patience. For the left clip, rear latch you would need something like a screwdriver with a 5 to 10 mm bit at right angles on the end, perhaps cut out from a bit of metal or perspex? I took the easy way out and bought the suggested tool . (Still a bit fiddly but was always going to work).