I use the front windscreen demist button. Sounds like your own personal hurricane in the car, but does the job really quickly and gives warm air within a minute or so. i don't think it relies on the HV battery, just the 12v one.
It uses the HV battery to heat the air and the 12v for the fan.
It does seem to be fairly frugal on the HV battery though.
Yes as long as you have at least 30% SOC though, which considering 10 minutes of heat won't even lose you 1% is daft.
TBH - I have never tried pre heating the car at that low state of SOC as this does not leave you with a lot of range left to get you very far in distance, in these poor weather conditions.
I'm seeing 20 amps at 350 V so would assume it's around that level?
5 miles left would be low but 50! The low battery warnings in this car come on way too early for my liking. Definitely wasted time and probably energy as well. Instead of opening the door once and driving off, I had to open the door multiple times to help scrape off ice to try and hurry the defrost up.
I don't know if the Gen 2 is the same, but on the Gen 1, the Amps shown bounces up and down between whatever the figure shown is and 0, so it's actually a lot less when it averages out. ISTR someone saying it worked out at 4 to 5kW on max. FWIW once it reaches temperature and/or if you turn the heat down the Amps used and hence the kWh used, drops dramatically.
20 amps is about the average. Yeah I realise that; that is presumably the reason the panic brigade fail to use heating as they see a drop in GOM range without understanding that the power draw will lessen once it's at temperature and that the G stands for Guess!
That is a very good point !
I guess you can't have the best of both worlds, "you pay your money and you take your choice" as they say.
If you are prioritising range over cost, then it is a win.I guess you can't have the best of both worlds, "you pay your money and you take your choice" as they say.
