Wheel nut cover removal tool

Gomev

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When I replaced the 'gunk and pump' with a full size spare I discovered that the wheel nut cover removal tool - tweezers - was missing.
Could somebody please post a picture of theirs as looking online seems to be more than 1 type, so that I can purchase similar from a cheap online source.
Thanks in advance.
 

w1bble

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When I replaced the 'gunk and pump' with a full size spare I discovered that the wheel nut cover removal tool - tweezers - was missing.
Could somebody please post a picture of theirs as looking online seems to be more than 1 type, so that I can purchase similar from a cheap online source.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Lovemyev

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When I replaced the 'gunk and pump' with a full size spare I discovered that the wheel nut cover removal tool - tweezers - was missing.
Could somebody please post a picture of theirs as looking online seems to be more than 1 type, so that I can purchase similar from a cheap online source.
Thanks in advance.
This looks like it will do the job !.
The picture of the wheel bolt and the plastic cover cap, look extremely close to the OEM parts I think ?.

 

Robf

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On a note of concern
I would check very, very carefully re jacking up an EV with a third party single point jack. The batteries make the car much heavier than a ICE car and you need to check that there are identified single jacking points on the car, plus that the jack is capable of lifting the weight. Do check, and if in doubt, call the AA who do have the right equipment.
 

w1bble

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On a note of concern
I would check very, very carefully re jacking up an EV with a third party single point jack. The batteries make the car much heavier than a ICE car and you need to check that there are identified single jacking points on the car, plus that the jack is capable of lifting the weight. Do check, and if in doubt, call the AA who do have the right equipment.

if you get the real spare wheel it arrives with a suitable jack etc, one assumes it's rated for the vehicle as it's MG dealer supplied.
 

Robf

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if you get the real spare wheel it arrives with a suitable jack etc, one assumes it's rated for the vehicle as it's MG dealer supplied.
I was really refering to the third party ones being bought of ebay? Just wondering, does the user manual cover jacking and identify single jacking points?
 

Lovemyev

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I was really refering to the third party ones being bought of ebay? Just wondering, does the user manual cover jacking and identify single jacking points?
Yep 👍.
They use the same positions that the factory used to support the body shell cradle around the factory.
There is four approved jacking points on each corner of the car.
It this point the body shell is very strong and rigid.
It’s where the inner and outer cills and the floor pan are welded together.
These points are shown in the manual.
Do NOT place any type of lifting jack on the HV battery pack !!!.
It’s an easy target, because it looks nice a flat to jack up the car.
DO NOT USE THE PACK, TO JACK !!!!!.
 
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Gomev

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On a note of concern
I would check very, very carefully re jacking up an EV with a third party single point jack. The batteries make the car much heavier than a ICE car and you need to check that there are identified single jacking points on the car, plus that the jack is capable of lifting the weight. Do check, and if in doubt, call the AA who do have the right equipment.
As noted above by @Lovemyev the manual does cover it. I have a 2 ton scissor jack.
Useful points made though for everyone to note if thinking of using a spare either spacesaver or full sized.
 

Alb

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the body shell is very strong and rigid.
Strong maybe but rigid, no.
You'll notice that you only lift one corner of the car using these points i.e. the body is twisting.
In contrast, on my other car, either jacking point on each side lifts that entire half of the car so you could jack at the front to change a rear wheel if you wanted.
 

Lovemyev

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Thanks @Alb for providing the page from the manual.
It clearly shows the point where the car is carried around the factory.
It is indicated by the little triangle symbol on the underside of the outer cill.
Do NOT do what my neighbour did and jacked up his car directly on the outer cill itself and crushed it !..
The jack MUST span across the seam where it is at its most strongest point.
Clearly shown on the page.

C86EC2EB-3656-4597-9FDC-7C7E1EFA2172.jpeg
 

Lovemyev

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Strong maybe but rigid, no.
You'll notice that you only lift one corner of the car using these points i.e. the body is twisting.
In contrast, on my other car, either jacking point on each side lifts that entire half of the car so you could jack at the front to change a rear wheel if you wanted.
It’s about as rigid as it’s going to get considering the extra weight of the car and a big hole ( maybe ) cut in the roof for the sun roof 🤣.
The extra weight of the pack is a negative here alright.
In most FWD cars, when you lift the front corner, the same rear corner will likely rise with it.
The back end of a FWD car is extremely light.
This can be seen in tyre wear values.
Not with an EV !.
The pack is heavy and will therefore the rear end will be reluctant to rise like the front of the car.
These lifting points n the cill, are the same four lifting locations used by the dealer to pick up the car on a two poster lift.
When lifting up a convertible sport car on a two poster lift, if you need the doors open for any reason what so ever, you need to have them slightly BEFORE you lift up the car off the ground.
Otherwise you will never get them doors open once the car has left the ground !.
The car has a lost a lot of its structural strength because of the lack of the roof etc.
Same applies if you had the doors open, lift the car and they will NOT close now.
Ask me how I know 😂.
 

BugEyed

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The weight of the pack is less than the additional load allowed in the car when fully loaded, so we need to keep this in perspective - it is not a BEV specific issue. Lifting safely, particularly on uneven or insecure ground, always requires care. This is particularly the case when using a scissor jack with small contact points both with the car and the ground.
 

East Coast Cruiser

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Does the tool to remove the nut covers come with the car and if so where is it normally please?
I should have kept the one I had with the Duster when I sold it on!
 
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