Recent content by WigglePig

Note that in general the "Min" and "Max" levels are cold levels so if it is cold and at rest on the "Max" then that's fine. It may well head over "Max" when hot but that is also fine.

I really must sort out some sort of tool to read OBD2 codes (I already have an ELM-based bluetooth dongle so should be able to do this fairly straightforwardly. This is of interest to me as I have noticed a huge drop in GoM range this winter and I suspected a problem, although the GoM has...

Just get a qualified, certified professional electrician to do the work, it’s cheaper and safer in the long run.

Unless the bushings are worn and knocking then creaking can usually be remedied with application of a bit of silicone spray. On parts availability, I'm having fun trying to get a pair of rear shocks...

Indeed there was, and one of the other things that update did was to reduce the deceleration available in regen level 3. Grr.

Hmm. Since I got involved in this discussion my 5 has started showing 14.0 V when the vehicle is running…

Easily fixed with a bit of filing… But that aside I said I thought they would look good, not that they would fit…

I think a set of Mk1 Fiesta XR2 “pepper pot” alloy would look just the jobbie.

It can often put a nice score in the disc too, especially if it’s a nice hard granite chip or a bit of flint.

I have a big spreadsheet that covers my vehicle from new. I shall get it tidied up, make a graff and post it…

It's also missing a motor isn't it? Scratch that!

The reason I bought the MG5 in 2021 is that I had compared similarly-sized estate cars and the 5 came out significantly better on price (I paid £20k for mine.) So yes, EVs can be cheaper than ICE but it varies wildly depending on what you want.

Have you tried to get spare parts for your vehicle from third party suppliers at all? I'm talking about things like shock absorbers, small standard parts, etc. MG have provided no information to the maintainers of the parts databases so none of them can indicate which entirely standard parts...

14.7 V suggests charging a lead acid battery but the resting terminal voltage should be somewhere around 12.6 V, with float charging around 13.8 V. I'm still pretty convinced there's something not right with the way that MG EVs treat their 12 V battery or at least how it reports.

Yup, the battery isn't reaching full charge is what I would suspect. My PFL 5 usually shows 13.8 V which is fine as a float charge voltage but no good for reaching full charge which is going to need 14.4+ V