- Joined
- Feb 7, 2024
- Messages
- 2,301
- Reaction score
- 3,774
- Points
- 1,056
- Age
- 70
- Location (town/city + country)
- Mannum South Australia
- Driving
- MG4 (2022-2025)
Apologies for the long post, I tend to get a tad carried away sometimes ....
The reverse cycle most definitely removes the moisture from the air inside the cabin. The smart ones turn the fan off to allow the hot refrigerant to melt and ice on the inside unit, and when it is in cooling mode, they turn the reverse cycle on and the fan off to melt the ice build up.
Tesla have a very complex system where it goes through a cold evaporator to remove the moisture from the air, then the second evaporator to control cabin temp.
The moisture from the air is removed at the inside unit by controlling the temp to the dew point until it senses the inside evaporator/condenser (depending if it's heating or cooling) changes temp to indicate the moisture has been removed, then returns controlling the room temp ..... sometimes the air stops coming out the vents, but you can hear the fan is still running, it is going through a defrost cycle or moisture removal cycle .....
The heat pump system can be up to 4 times more efficient than an electrical element type heater, so they aren't near as hard on the battery drain through the winter months.
The MG has active grille control so it can stop the cold air passing across the outside unit to allow it to be defrosted if needed, but the ability to still function down to -25°C means it can still draw heat from ice .....
The modern heat pump systems using HC refrigerants work incredibly well, I changed the refrigerant in the motorhome engine driven air con to Hychill minus30, and the improvement over R134a was immediately noticeable, the fans actually cycled when pulling 40°C down to 22°C, where that never happened with the R134a refrigerant. We wouldn't see -10°C very often over here, so the mix of propane and butane works great, but in the colder climates, you would need a lot more propane in the refrigerant mix because it liquifies at around -42°C at atmospheric pressure, where Butane is around 1°C ......
T1 Terry
The reverse cycle most definitely removes the moisture from the air inside the cabin. The smart ones turn the fan off to allow the hot refrigerant to melt and ice on the inside unit, and when it is in cooling mode, they turn the reverse cycle on and the fan off to melt the ice build up.
Tesla have a very complex system where it goes through a cold evaporator to remove the moisture from the air, then the second evaporator to control cabin temp.
The moisture from the air is removed at the inside unit by controlling the temp to the dew point until it senses the inside evaporator/condenser (depending if it's heating or cooling) changes temp to indicate the moisture has been removed, then returns controlling the room temp ..... sometimes the air stops coming out the vents, but you can hear the fan is still running, it is going through a defrost cycle or moisture removal cycle .....
The heat pump system can be up to 4 times more efficient than an electrical element type heater, so they aren't near as hard on the battery drain through the winter months.
The MG has active grille control so it can stop the cold air passing across the outside unit to allow it to be defrosted if needed, but the ability to still function down to -25°C means it can still draw heat from ice .....
The modern heat pump systems using HC refrigerants work incredibly well, I changed the refrigerant in the motorhome engine driven air con to Hychill minus30, and the improvement over R134a was immediately noticeable, the fans actually cycled when pulling 40°C down to 22°C, where that never happened with the R134a refrigerant. We wouldn't see -10°C very often over here, so the mix of propane and butane works great, but in the colder climates, you would need a lot more propane in the refrigerant mix because it liquifies at around -42°C at atmospheric pressure, where Butane is around 1°C ......
T1 Terry
