MG4 X Power Vibe/Hum 65to75mph

[Bricktop X PWR]

I didn't know that it could be put into RWD only mode, do you have any more info about this about this?

I am pretty tempted to get the Xpower, and I'd like RWD only for day to day use, and would be happy to swap to 4WD when needed

Permanent 4WD in Sport Mode,
2WD in Normal, until you floor it then automatically becomes 4WD. (Reverts back to 2WD automatically)

Not floored it in any of the other modes (Snow Eco Custom) so can't comment apart from it starts off in 2WD Normal.
If you want 4WD in the Snow, put into Sport and turn off ESC.

Never left in it Sport, turned off, then come back so can't swear it will still be in Sport next rime you use it.

 

[tsedge]

I knew someone couldn't resist

What is the car like at the maximum speed of 124mph? Is it stable, is there any vibration?

What about hard cornering over 100mph with the back sliding out driving one handed while you take a selfie with the other hand?

Any good at J-turns?

I am asking for a friend who is a professional racing driver and owns his own circuit, honest.

 

[TheHypnoToad]

Never left in it Sport, turned off, then come back so can't swear it will still be in Sport next rime you use it.

Good info, thanks. On the trophy model I've found it goes back to 'normal' drive mode when starting it up, no matter what drive mode it was left in, I imagine it may be the same on the xpower.

I think I'm going to have to give the Xpower a test drive and also check that the insurace isn't silly money also.

 

[Bricktop X PWR]

What is the car like at the maximum speed of 124mph? Is it stable, is there any vibration?

What about hard cornering over 100mph with the back sliding out driving one handed while you take a selfie with the other hand?

Any good at J-turns?

I am asking for a friend who is a professional racing driver and owns his own circuit, honest.

When I was on a private track the other day, I did see an indicated 121, and I really should have kept going to check the max speed but there may have been some screaming in the car so I slowed down.
Next time I'm at his circuit I will make sure I'm alone.
Very stable though, no vibes at all.
If it wasn't my car I would happily try a J turn for you.
Perhaps when I'm about to put some new tyres on it, I'll try that.
Might be a while though.

Cornering at a ton? I will definitely wait for the circuit.
She's still the best part of 2 tonnes remember, but handles remarkably well all things considered

 

[JonnyG]

Note: 74 on the clock is pretty much a real 74 ... the MG4's speedo is very accurate. Whilst plod likely won't bother, speeding is still an absolute offence with mitigation unlikely to work, so something to bare in mind.

Read my post ....where do I say it was mph .... in my defence your honour it was all kph !!

As others have reported at setting ACC at 74 the GPS speed (TomTom and Waze) were both 73.

(all in kph your honour)

 

[MG Fred]

Good info, thanks. On the trophy model I've found it goes back to 'normal' drive mode when starting it up, no matter what drive mode it was left in, I imagine it may be the same on the xpower.

I think I'm going to have to give the Xpower a test drive and also check that the insurace isn't silly money also.

Yep, same on the xpower, goes back to normal drive mode. Definitely worth a test drive. I actually ordered the xpower just on the basis of a test drive of the normal powered trophy. It was the right sized car and I was surprised at the good ride and refinement. The xpower I drove afterwards and the performance is a hoot!

I got insurance for £380 which was quite good I think. Comparethemarket - quotemehappy. Best I could find. I got a quote a few weeks before I needed it and that quote was £100 cheaper than a quote a couple of days before I needed it, so I just accepted the earlier quote instead and updated the start date/reg plate. All down to how computer algorithms are working. Hope the tip comes in handy.

 

[JonnyG]

.....I got insurance for £380 which was quite good I think. Comparethemarket - quotemehappy. Best I could find. I got a quote a few weeks before I needed it and that quote was £100 cheaper than a quote a couple of days before I needed it, so I just accepted the earlier quote instead and updated the start date/reg plate. All down to how computer algorithms are working. Hope the tip comes in handy....

Thats a great quote for the XPower

According to Martin Lewis (MSE fame) 21-28 days prior to renewal is the best time to get new quotes (i.e lowest prices).

Martin Lewis: How changing the day you apply for car insurance may halve costs

MoneySavingExpert.com founder Martin Lewis has helped a furloughed worker save over £450 on car insurance using his 21 day renewal trick - here's how you can cut your costs and do the same

www.moneysavingexpert.com

 

[evmg1]

I believe the x power just uses one of the standard perm mag motors on the front, no fancy decoupling mechanism in the reduction box.
If the motor is idle but still being spun by the cars forward motion, the magnets will still be causing electrons to flow in the field coils 'cogging' I believe is the term.
I have a few rc cars and aircraft with brushless perm mag motors and they all display this tendency if you spin the prop or wheels.
Wonder if this is the x powers' issue ? Good old MG cost cutting strikes again alas ?

I think your spot on with that. The reading I did lead to that conclusion. When on demo I parked on the kerb and looked underneath to see if there were any vibration dampers or weights on the driveshafts.....nothing.

Here's the YouTube review that mentions this issue. See the discussion at 36:45 onwards:

On the button, exactly the issue

As promised earlier I have been out testing for 210 miles this weekend up and down the A1 (visiting relatives in Newcastle). My experience is very similar to yours. In summary :-

• For me (or perhaps my car?) it is so mild it is not an issue at all.
• It seems to come and go, even at similar speeds which is odd
• The worst I got was at 68 on an uphill gradient which felt like unbalanced wheels on a poor surface
• This lasted about 20 seconds and then as the gradient flattened out it improved.
• Cruising or setting the ACC to 74 everything was fine, no vibe feeling at all in any circumstances.
• Changing the drive modes during the vibe made no difference.
• It seems to be worse for me at aound 68 - 70 but only some of the time.
• Probably worse accelerating gently up through the range than down
• At, or above 74 nothing was felt at all
• On some stretches of road I could'nt feel it at all even when trying.
• My passenger (Mrs G) did'nt notice anything at any time.
• Car was in ECO mode and High Regen mainly but I flicked through the modes - no difference

Conclusions for me (with my car anyway) are :-

• Yes, there is some vibe at around 68'ish but not all the time
• It seems to come and go (road surface ? gradient) - I really can't explain what !
• It can easily be avoided by going a tad faster or slower when it occurs
• It would not put me off the car at all and I'm very glad I purchased it

What does that vibration do to bearings and suspension comp

Anyone had some sensible feedback from the dealers on what it is, if they recognise it and how to fix it?

 

[TheHypnoToad]

There are quite a few other EV's with similar drivetrain layouts, permanent RWD with occasional 4WD when required.

Tesla dual motor, Kia EV6, and I'm sure I'm missing plenty of the VAG branded stuff.

Has there been any reports of similar behavior from these cars when in RWD only mode? Vibration on the steering wheel would be a good telltale sign

 

[evmg1]

There are quite a few other EV's with similar drivetrain layouts, permanent RWD with occasional 4WD when required.

Tesla dual motor, Kia EV6, and I'm sure I'm missing plenty of the VAG branded stuff.

Has there been any reports of similar behavior from these cars when in RWD only mode? Vibration on the steering wheel would be a good telltale sign

I ended up buying a ioniq 5 4wd and no issues. Smooth as silk. I so wanted an xpower but the vibration was to annoying and knew it would take ages to fix. Also worried me re the resale value and issues of selling. I think I was the first to highlight the vibration

 

[fnegroni]

I ended up buying a ioniq 5 4wd and no issues. Smooth as silk. I so wanted an xpower but the vibration was to annoying and knew it would take ages to fix. Also worried me re the resale value and issues of selling. I think I was the first to highlight the vibration

How much was it out of curiosity?

 

[JustAnotherMidlifeCrisis]

I ended up buying a ioniq 5 4wd and no issues. Smooth as silk. I so wanted an xpower but the vibration was to annoying and knew it would take ages to fix. Also worried me re the resale value and issues of selling. I think I was the first to highlight the vibration

Did you experience the vibration first-hand?

 

[kin]

Yes I took a test drive before placing my order but not on the motorway. Didn't see a need at the time. I think it would really bug me if every trip along an M road meant continuous vibration through the steering wheel. You're right, I haven't experienced it in person, so it's hard to know how much weight to give it. But there's enough discussion on here to make me wonder. Unfortunately I'm the kind of person this would p*** off.

Why not take another test drive but this time on motorway obviously.

 

[evmg1]

How much was it out of curiosity?

22 plate. 12000miles. Ultimate with driver assist pack I think it is. From main dealer. 36k. And its spotless.

 

[evmg1]

Did you experience the vibration first-hand?

I drove 3 at different dealerships and the all did it and I noticed it straight away...thats I went to 3 dealerships thinking.....no....this can't be right

 

[fnegroni]

22 plate. 12000miles. Ultimate with driver assist pack I think it is. From main dealer. 36k. And its spotless.

Brand new it’s £55k
To be had for 36k is massive depreciation in one year: around 35%

So basically we are saying what everybody knows: don’t buy new unless a) you have money burning in your pocket or b) nothing else compares or c) you are leasing through a company car scheme or d) you have a huge incentive through government and/or dealer finance

 

[salty]

Brand new it’s £55k
To be had for 36k is massive depreciation in one year: around 35%

So basically we are saying what everybody knows: don’t buy new unless a) you have money burning in your pocket or b) nothing else compares or c) you are leasing through a company car scheme or d) you have a huge incentive through government and/or dealer finance

Or, E. You really want a Brand new car, you have the money, sod the depreciation, life's to short. Do it.

 

[OriginalBigAl]

A better question for your young plumber would be " do you know what BSP, BSF and BSW are along with BA ?" Wow I did,nt realise I was so far down the list. RE Ian Key.

 

[Ian Key]

A better question for your young plumber would be " do you know what BSP, BSF and BSW are along with BA ?" Wow I did,nt realise I was so far down the list. RE Ian Key.

I'll ask him when I next see him and you forgot BSC

 

[siteguru]

You also forgot AF