My turn with "Vehicle control system fault"...

AnMgZsUser

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Location
Cambridgeshire, UK
Driving
MG ZS EV
Well, it happened. 22 plate MG ZS EV. I don't know what triggered it but this was my restart sequence:
  • switching car on with two taps of power and no brake pedal, so that I could tap "finish charging" on the entertainment panel
  • pulling the power cord
  • tapping the power, but having forgotten to press the brake, had to then press the break and press power again. Likely this was < 2 second gap. From what I've read online this "quick stop/start cycle" might be the culprit. I've certainly had a similar situation in the past where stopping and starting the car too fast caused an issue.

When the car started, all the alerts came... the most significant, that wouldn't go away even through a power cycle was:
  • limited power, limiting speed
  • vacuum system fault
  • vehicle control system fault

The brakes were rock solid - no vacuum at all. I have a "good" ODB2 BT adaptor (Vgate icar pro) and tried a few different apps, but none could communicate with the car (something I'd dearly love to know why... if anyone knows what protocol should be used, or how to coerce that thing to work please let me know).

The MG Assistance (AA) was called, and once they arrived they could communicate with the car with their bosch kit, but unlike others have experienced, this did not make the problem go away, even clearing the faults they could see. They also tried disconnecting the 12v battery for at least 5 minutes, the problem was still there. I went to get a drink and let the AA guy tinker with it, thankfully being the sort not to give up on a problem. When I came back he was about to try something daunting...

Since the "vacuum system fault" was evident with the rock solid brakes, he decided to try to manually power the vacuum pump, to see if that was working. He did this by removing the pump connector from the loom and applying 12v across it - side note: I didn't question this, if the dealership said that he broke it more I'd be having choice words with MG about their choice of "assistance" provider and insisting since it fell under the assistance, it's still on them to fix it. When he did this, all the alerts magically went away. He plugged the pump back into the loom, I pressed the brake and the pump kicked in as it should.

Manually powering the vac pump in fact fixed the problem.

His theory was that the software got into a "chicken and egg" scenario, where either it believed there was a switch problem because there was no vacuum, or the switch was actually stuck because there was no vacuum, and therefore wouldn't start the pump, and the act of forcing the pump fixed the issue. I've emailed my local dealer to see what they say on the matter. But I've experimented (a bit), and driven 35 miles since and no problem reoccurrence. His suggestion is that should it happen next time, tap the vacuum switch (he pointed it out), disconnect and reconnect the pump, and if that doesn't work, call them and try to repeat the fix.

That's my story. I certainly won't be fiddling with the wiring myself, and wouldn't recommend people do so if they experience the same sort of thing. Best to call MG Assistance and let them have a crack at it...
 
Last edited:
@Kithmo, it was a 7kW AC charge.
@BugEyed, it felt solid - you can still brake a little (there is a very small play in the system) but not much. This is normal in vacuum assisted brake systems once the brake peddle has been pressed a couple of times without the vacuum pump engaging, resulting in total loss of vacuum.
 
I'm at a loss to understand how an issue with the valve/vacuum system is in anyway linked to a (failed) charge. A worrying fault though and potentially across all MGs.
 
I'm at a loss to understand how an issue with the valve/vacuum system is in anyway linked to a (failed) charge. A worrying fault though and potentially across all MGs.
I think that the software that runs these EVs is now so complex, it's easy to see that the developers will be reusing bits of code from one module to another and also it's likely impossible to test it for every scenario which can lead to wierd and wonderful errors.
 
The 2022 ZS manual is so vague about stopping a charge.
On AC it says turn off the power (charger ?) then unplug it.
On most AC chargers you can't turn off the charger.
Does unlocking the car put it in a "connected but not charging" state like the gen 1, so you can unplug it, or do you have to go to the app or infotainment system to stop it every time ?
It seems a bit of a faff to me if so.
 
I think that the software that runs these EVs is now so complex, it's easy to see that the developers will be reusing bits of code from one module to another and also it's likely impossible to test it for every scenario which can lead to wierd and wonderful errors.
"Ghosts in the machine" Asimov called it.
 
TBClear I don't think it was a failed charge that did it. I think it was the fact I "stopped" then "started" the car within maybe a second (or 2 at an outside chance). Or possibly started, then stopped before it'd finished it's start up process? In any case - yeah, software. :(

I'm unclear on the rules of disconnecting the charger, but the car was already unlocked for a period while charging, so the charging cable was locked. AFAIK there's 3 ways to sort this: Lock then unlock the car, pull the cable. Finish charging on the app, pull the cable. Finish charging on the infotainment, pull the charger. This last point is what I did, but to do it I had to start the car (but I did so without brake, so... power on the car without starting it?)
 
Not related to a charging process, but our VW PHEV did a similar thing a few years ago.
We where travelling along a dual carriageway and the car suddenly sent out a TPMS warning to the dash panel, a few seconds later it started throwing up multiple errors and lights on the dash.
Then the car started running very rough and I had to pull over to a safe place very quickly.
The car was running on two cylinders at this point.
I turned off the car and waited a few minutes.
Then tried restarting the car, it started okay and I drove it straight to our local VW dealer.
The following day, the car was placed on the diag computer and it was found that the main RCU model required a huge update.
Every module on the car was updated, thirty updates in one go !.
The EV Tech said he had never applied that many updates at a single time in his time with VW.
When I asked him why the car flagged SO many faults, he said that if a single major fault is detected by the system, it can trigger a daisy chain of warnings and codes that the ECU can not deal with, so it will and can shut down the car due to the amount of errors recorded.
Many of these codes are none related to the original fault.
The codes where cleared and the update to the RCU was carried out, we had the car for 2 years after this and the problem never returned.
 
Well, it happened. 22 plate MG ZS EV. I don't know what triggered it but this was my restart sequence:
  • switching car on with two taps of power and no brake pedal, so that I could tap "finish charging" on the entertainment panel
  • pulling the power cord
  • tapping the power, but having forgotten to press the brake, had to then press the break and press power again. Likely this was < 2 second gap. From what I've read online this "quick stop/start cycle" might be the culprit. I've certainly had a similar situation in the past where stopping and starting the car too fast caused an issue.

When the car started, all the alerts came... the most significant, that wouldn't go away even through a power cycle was:
  • limited power, limiting speed
  • vacuum system fault
  • vehicle control system fault

The brakes were rock solid - no vacuum at all. I have a "good" ODB2 BT adaptor (Vgate icar pro) and tried a few different apps, but none could communicate with the car (something I'd dearly love to know why... if anyone knows what protocol should be used, or how to coerce that thing to work please let me know).

The MG Assistance (AA) was called, and once they arrived they could communicate with the car with their bosch kit, but unlike others have experienced, this did not make the problem go away, even clearing the faults they could see. They also tried disconnecting the 12v battery for at least 5 minutes, the problem was still there. I went to get a drink and let the AA guy tinker with it, thankfully being the sort not to give up on a problem. When I came back he was about to try something daunting...

Since the "vacuum system fault" was evident with the rock solid brakes, he decided to try to manually power the vacuum pump, to see if that was working. He did this by removing the pump connector from the loom and applying 12v across it - side note: I didn't question this, if the dealership said that he broke it more I'd be having choice words with MG about their choice of "assistance" provider and insisting since it fell under the assistance, it's still on them to fix it. When he did this, all the alerts magically went away. He plugged the pump back into the loom, I pressed the brake and the pump kicked in as it should.

Manually powering the vac pump in fact fixed the problem.

His theory was that the software got into a "chicken and egg" scenario, where either it believed there was a switch problem because there was no vacuum, or the switch was actually stuck because there was no vacuum, and therefore wouldn't start the pump, and the act of forcing the pump fixed the issue. I've emailed my local dealer to see what they say on the matter. But I've experimented (a bit), and driven 35 miles since and no problem reoccurrence. His suggestion is that should it happen next time, tap the vacuum switch (he pointed it out), disconnect and reconnect the pump, and if that doesn't work, call them and try to repeat the fix.

That's my story. I certainly won't be fiddling with the wiring myself, and wouldn't recommend people do so if they experience the same sort of thing. Best to call MG Assistance and let them have a crack at it...
I’ve had a very similar issue however nothing has seemed to fix the problem. Car has been with the dealership for almost 2weeks now waiting for some parts that should hopefully fix it once and for all
 
Hi kayapps and mgzsuser.

Have any of you experienced thenissue again and/or have any information on a permanent fix?

My ZS has the same issue and is now at the dealership for repair.

Im weary that they will just ‘reset’ it without a definite solution…

Thank you in advance
 
Hi kayapps and mgzsuser.

Have any of you experienced thenissue again and/or have any information on a permanent fix?

My ZS has the same issue and is now at the dealership for repair.

Im weary that they will just ‘reset’ it without a definite solution…

Thank you in advance
What happened to yours? We have the same issue now with a 71 plate ZS LR. Our local dealer is having all kinds of fun trying to get it working again. Changing the vacuum pump and switch hasn't made all the errors go away.
 
What happened to yours? We have the same issue now with a 71 plate ZS LR. Our local dealer is having all kinds of fun trying to get it working again. Changing the vacuum pump and switch hasn't made all the errors go away.
For me it was (as I understood) replacing the vacuum pump and some sensors and then a reset.

I'm still weary that the issue will return. The issue was resolved in ~2 days after I delivered the car to them.
 
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