Range and things!!

[Laurence Brown]

OK, Lovemyev, I will do this in the morning after this overnight charge.
Lets see what the predicted range will be in Normal, and as you suggest.
I notice the HVAC (? - I am just going to call it my Blowers from now on, need a bloody degree in physics to understand the abbreviations and tech stuff in this forum), I notice the blowers, really do make a difference to the charge range, I reckon by 8% or 9% generally, and the ECO on top of that, so averaging out at around near enough 20%.
We shall see.. I'll report back. Have a pleasant evening.

 

[Lovemyev]

OK, Lovemyev, I will do this in the morning after this overnight charge.
Lets see what the predicted range will be in Normal, and as you suggest.
I notice the HVAC (? - I am just going to call it my Blowers from now on, need a bloody degree in physics to understand the abbreviations and tech stuff in this forum), I notice the blowers, really do make a difference to the charge range, I reckon by 8% or 9% generally, and the ECO on top of that, so averaging out at around near enough 20%.
We shall see.. I'll report back. Have a pleasant evening.

Hi Laurence - Sorry about the abbreviation !.
HVAC - Heating / Ventilation / Air Conditioning ( Or "Blowers" if you prefer ).
They are a little different, only because the "Blower Fan" as you like to call it, is powered by the 12 volt battery under the bonnet.
The heat to the cabin is provided by an electric cabin heater, it pull's it's power from the HV circuit.
So, you can run the "Blowers" and the power required will be fairly small, but as soon as you start to demand heat, then DOWN goes you range.
It can be anything from 10 - 20 reduction in range, depended on the level of heat required.
The bigger demand for heat, the greater the effect on lost range from the GOM ( Sorry, "Guess - O - Meter" ).
A/C ( Air Conditioning ) has a very similar effect, but the loss in range is slightly less.
Again, depending on the level of cooling you require in the cabin.
When using Eco mode, the effectivity of the heating / cooling is reduced in order to preserve the range.
It's a personal thing really, but I don't use the Eco mode setting.
I just find ( and others have said the same ) that achieving similar results in NORMAL is very possible when the car is driven in a conservative fashion.
Using the car on a regular daily basis and in the default mode NORMAL and Regen 3 - I just find your driving style adapts to this setting after a while.
Quickly you become able to control the power / Regen with your right foot.
Almost discounting the need to apply the footbrake until the last few seconds.
NEARLY one pedal driving.
I hope SOME of this makes sense ????.
Thanks.

 

[sparkygoat]

The “Predicted” range will be higher when you select Eco mode.
After carrying out a FULL charge and rebalance, when you enter the car and are then ready to start.
First, do not apply pressure to your footbrake, then press the start button once, then once again.
Now using the buttons on the right hand side of the steering wheel, score through the menu’s until you see the trip recorders showing on the dash panel.
Reset both of them by pressing the okay button on the wheel when requested.
Do it for BOTH your present, then accumulated total trip.
This will then realign the predicted forecast in the GOM to give you a more accurate prediction of range, prior to making a longer trip.
A predicted GOM range of +200 miles is based on a record of your previous driving style and types of journeys, and is plainly not achievable in actual miles covered.
I always use the default mode of NORMAL and Regen level 3 when requesting the car for a prediction on my range after a full charge & balance.
Oh …… Please ensure all your HVAC system is switched off also, otherwise it will have an instant impact on the reported range.

Regeneration results in about 20-30% of the car's kinetic energy being coverted into heat and only about 70% into battery storage. I find that I'm getting noticeabley better miles/kwh by using level 1 where I don't expect to be doing a lot of braking. In town where it's hard to avoid braking I use level 2 or 3. Previously I was typically getting 3.3 to 3.7. But now on same regular journeys using Kers 1 I'm getting 3.6 to 4.2. All acedemic really, because whatever you're getting it's a lot cheaper than diesel or petrol!. Even if it was the same price, you don't need to go near a petrol station and the drive is so smooth and and quiet.

 

[JodyS21]

Regeneration results in about 20-30% of the car's kinetic energy being coverted into heat and only about 70% into battery storage. I find that I'm getting noticeabley better miles/kwh by using level 1 where I don't expect to be doing a lot of braking. In town where it's hard to avoid braking I use level 2 or 3. Previously I was typically getting 3.3 to 3.7. But now on same regular journeys using Kers 1 I'm getting 3.6 to 4.2. All acedemic really, because whatever you're getting it's a lot cheaper than diesel or petrol!. Even if it was the same price, you don't need to go near a petrol station and the drive is so smooth and and quiet.

To be honest I can't be bothered with switching the KERS mode constantly, we always use 3, maybe I should.
I assume though that on motorway etc, by just be gentle on easing off the accelerator pedal it stops the KERS kicking it and effectively coasts - like it does in level 1.

 

[Lovemyev]

To be honest I can't be bothered with switching the KERS mode constantly, we always use 3, maybe I should.
I assume though that on motorway etc, by just be gentle on easing off the accelerator pedal it stops the KERS kicking it and effectively coasts - like it does in level 1.

Just depends on your diving style and more likely to be on your usage case to be honest.
I have seen returns of 5 M/Kwh on more than a few occasions on both short and long trips where i have pushed the range of the car and I never altered my mode / Regen levels.
I don't like to "Over Think It" - a bit of a "Same Move Steve" situation really .
Use the default mode and off you go !.
If I though it would made a huge difference to the range, then the "Flicking & Switching" constantly maybe worth the effort.
It's not that I just can't be bothered, but I just think that I can closely match the Eco mode by driving manually anyway ?.
Just to say, I did try out the Eco mode when I first got the car, but it never really impressed me that much ???.
Everybody is different ( thank goodness ) it's what ever feels RIGHT for you !.

 

[Mike]

When I had my ZS I left it in Normal and KERS 3. I could never remember which way to push the buttons and they are a long reach from the steering wheel! Which ever one I wanted it was always wrong, so I didn’t bother. Like @Lovemyev i was able to get reasonable economy driving this way, but used either the manual speed limiter or MG Pilot. My usage profile meant that my economy was never great as I would drive say 20-100 miles but I would stop every 5-10 miles and see a client for an hour or so. So I was always heating up the cabin or cooling it down.

You get used to feathering the throttle all the time. In my new EV I have paddles and I use them a lot as they are so easy & instinctive to use. It has a coast mode which is great, but you can achieve that in level 3 by feathering your foot. It’s just easier!!

My general fully charged state at 449V was around 140 miles in Normal with HVAC on. Never bothered with Eco. I wanted my HVAC to work properly.

 

[Laurence Brown]

Hi Laurence - Sorry about the abbreviation !.
HVAC - Heating / Ventilation / Air Conditioning ( Or "Blowers" if you prefer ).
They are a little different, only because the "Blower Fan" as you like to call it, is powered by the 12 volt battery under the bonnet.
The heat to the cabin is provided by an electric cabin heater, it pull's it's power from the HV circuit.
So, you can run the "Blowers" and the power required will be fairly small, but as soon as you start to demand heat, then DOWN goes you range.
It can be anything from 10 - 20 reduction in range, depended on the level of heat required.
The bigger demand for heat, the greater the effect on lost range from the GOM ( Sorry, "Guess - O - Meter" ).
A/C ( Air Conditioning ) has a very similar effect, but the loss in range is slightly less.
Again, depending on the level of cooling you require in the cabin.
When using Eco mode, the effectivity of the heating / cooling is reduced in order to preserve the range.
It's a personal thing really, but I don't use the Eco mode setting.
I just find ( and others have said the same ) that achieving similar results in NORMAL is very possible when the car is driven in a conservative fashion.
Using the car on a regular daily basis and in the default mode NORMAL and Regen 3 - I just find your driving style adapts to this setting after a while.
Quickly you become able to control the power / Regen with your right foot.
Almost discounting the need to apply the footbrake until the last few seconds.
NEARLY one pedal driving.
I hope SOME of this makes sense ????.
Thanks.

So, I charged all night, then did as you suggested a reset the accumulated trip clocks to zero.
They both reset to zero with one long press on OK.
So I attach my overnight charge details.:
Voltage is now at 448v.
The mileage suggested by GOM was 160, I put it on ECO and it shows 179.
I also attach the OHME's oh-so-small-you-can't-read-it display. Even with my glasses on it means nothing to me. What's the high temperature for, 31 degrees?
It cost £7.21 and offered 36.0kWh energy with Octopus Flexible pinned at 20.03 p/kWh.
So, casting your professional eye over these figures, how am I doing?

 

[JodyS21]

So, I charged all night, then did as you suggested a reset the accumulated trip clocks to zero.
They both reset to zero with one long press on OK.
So I attach my overnight charge details.:
Voltage is now at 448v.
The mileage suggested by GOM was 160, I put it on ECO and it shows 179.
I also attach the OHME's oh-so-small-you-can't-read-it display. Even with my glasses on it means nothing to me. What's the high temperature for, 31 degrees?
It cost £7.21 and offered 36.0kWh energy with Octopus Flexible pinned at 20.03 p/kWh.
So, casting your professional eye over these figures, how am I doing?

Looks ok-ish. Ideally would be 163 on the GOM in N3 (under no load) at 100% charge, you'd hope for 449-450v too.
Possibly your car isn't fully balanced hence why you're missing a tiny bit.

The Ohme charger was running at 31c, pretty irrelevant.

The Ohme doesn't really work properly with our car as it has no idea of the state of charge etc.
However, looking at the charge history on the app, if you've got your tariff rates setup correctly, does show how much juice is really did supply and at what estimated cost.
- I try to just put 4 hours in at night on my octopus go tariff, I usually get about 26.8kWh in for £1.34.

 

[Gomev]

So, I charged all night, then did as you suggested a reset the accumulated trip clocks to zero.
They both reset to zero with one long press on OK.
So I attach my overnight charge details.:
Voltage is now at 448v.
The mileage suggested by GOM was 160, I put it on ECO and it shows 179.
I also attach the OHME's oh-so-small-you-can't-read-it display. Even with my glasses on it means nothing to me. What's the high temperature for, 31 degrees?
It cost £7.21 and offered 36.0kWh energy with Octopus Flexible pinned at 20.03 p/kWh.
So, casting your professional eye over these figures, how am I doing?

Re voltage and GOM, its almost there, so not bad at all. Another one or 2 charges and balances and you will be at max capacity, 449/450v and 163 miles.

 

[sparkygoat]

To be honest I can't be bothered with switching the KERS mode constantly, we always use 3, maybe I should.
I assume though that on motorway etc, by just be gentle on easing off the accelerator pedal it stops the KERS kicking it and effectively coasts - like it does in level 1.

In the Mg5 LR I find it easier to shove it into kers1 on longer journeys where minimal braking is involved. I too, started feathering the go pedal in kers3 but that needs too much conscious work for me as I'm dead lazy. So reverted to kers1 on longer drives. Definitely adds a bit to the m/kWh. Depends on your driving style of course. Always shove it into kers 3 when in town though. Regarding eco v normal v sport, all this seems to do is give the guessometer a more optimistic forecast. I just leave it in default normal.

 

[Lovemyev]

So, I charged all night, then did as you suggested a reset the accumulated trip clocks to zero.
They both reset to zero with one long press on OK.
So I attach my overnight charge details.:
Voltage is now at 448v.
The mileage suggested by GOM was 160, I put it on ECO and it shows 179.
I also attach the OHME's oh-so-small-you-can't-read-it display. Even with my glasses on it means nothing to me. What's the high temperature for, 31 degrees?
It cost £7.21 and offered 36.0kWh energy with Octopus Flexible pinned at 20.03 p/kWh.
So, casting your professional eye over these figures, how am I doing?

I appears that you are running on the new BMS software update !.
Somebody at the dealership had been doing his / her job correctly to the MG service update protocol at least !.
Reported voltage if 448 volts and 160 miles confirms your cars BMS software version really.
As others have said, your about there or about regarding the stats.
To be totally honest, don’t get TOO paranoid about the figures, it will spoil your enjoyment of the car.
Just double check you have NOTHING turned on when you do your voltage / range checks and that you have cleared BOTH trips prior.
A lot will reflect on age / mileage covered and type of charging sessions used.
E.G. - Rapid / fast / Granny.
For ref, my car has covered 16,000 miles and charged almost 99% of the time on our walk box.
It now reports 448 - 449 volts and a predicted range of 155 miles every time I charge and balance now.
AmI bothered, not really.
Still enjoying the EV drive ( when I get the fault hand brake fixed of course ).
But that’s in another thread !.