Reduced range following garage visit! Hurrah!

[Lovemyev]

Is this not just because regen braking is not reduced even on a full charge on the 449v?

 

[Pict]

As others have said you should reset your GOM at every charge to get more accurate readings.

I am not sure why many people advocate the continual resetting of the accumulated data.

When I charge and set off on a journey I want to see the estimated range based on my current/past driving performance which I intend to continue, not based on a factory set figure under ideal conditions.

The only time I reset the accumulated data is if I know my driving is going to be considerably different ( a 200 mile motorway journey rather than going round towns for example) so it can learn my performance for that particular journey

 

[SCB86]

I reset the trip after each charge because it gives me a more reliable indication of range, the same way I would after filling my car with fuel.
My current driving will then either increase or decrease my range and that gives me the most accurate range predictions based on real time driving.

 

[Pict]

I reset the trip after each charge because it gives me a more reliable indication of range, the same way I would after filling my car with fuel.
My current driving will then either increase or decrease my range and that gives me the most accurate range predictions based on real time driving.

The range for an ICE vehicle would be calculated on the current mpg achieved (not the manufacturer's figures), so why not base your EV range on your current performance rather than the manufacturers.

Surely resetting after every charge just then gives you the same estimation (163 miles or whatever the current figure is)

 

[JodyS21]

The range for an ICE vehicle would be calculated on the current mpg achieved (not the manufacturer's figures), so why not base your EV range on your current performance rather than the manufacturers.

Surely resetting after every charge just then gives you the same estimation (163 miles or whatever the current figure is)

If you are doing pretty identical types of journeys consistently then in theory keep your trip data and allow the GOM to use the previous data.
Real world though most people don’t constantly do the same types of driving each time they use the car.
Also perhaps just as important, conditions varying from day to day - rain, wind, sun, temp, affect it so much that in the real world the GOM based on previous data isn’t very accurate.
Because of these things, resetting the trip means you are seeing a GOM calculated on a consistent identical baseline, which you can then kind of trust bearing in mind you know what type of driving you’re going to be doing.

Everyone has their own preferences of course

 

[SCB86]

@JodyS21 you put it more adroitly than me

 

[rbpasapera]

After resetting the accumulated data GOM shows 180 miles (Eco mode) on a full charge. In a typical week I drive 117 miles and range shows 87-ish miles left on GOM.

I'm averaging 5.4 mi/kWh so GOM will show 216 miles when car is fully charged, if I don't reset the trip, GOM will drop faster and I will end up getting same 87-ish miles left on GOM.

I don't really understand GOM, that is why I reset the trip after each AC charge to 100%.

 

[Cocijo]

I had a trip the other day to check out a new charging hub. 90% motorway and about 85miles round trip.
On the way I took it steady - 60mph and 70mph in places but no hard acceleration and tried to keep power at or below 20% where possible. I got 3.9mpk.
Coming back I drove as I normally would not dropping below 70mph and hard acceleration in places. I got 2.7mpk coming back.
It’s what I expected and shows how range can change dramatically.

I generally average around 4mpk on my none motorway trips in summer.

Using available capacity of 42kwhr the 3 areas with different consumption would give approximate ranges of;
2.7mpk=114miles 3.9mpk=163 4mpk=168miles

if using HVAC and in cold weather these can be further reduced by 20-40miles in my experience.

A high speed journey on the motorway in winter with heating on can drain your pack in well under 100miles.
If you are aware of your expected journey consumption based on your type of route, speed etc you can predict quite accurately what to expect in terms of range.

 

[Lovemyev]

I am not sure why many people advocate the continual resetting of the accumulated data.

When I charge and set off on a journey I want to see the estimated range based on my current/past driving performance which I intend to continue, not based on a factory set figure under ideal conditions.

The only time I reset the accumulated data is if I know my driving is going to be considerably different ( a 200 mile motorway journey rather than going round towns for example) so it can learn my performance for that particular journey

I can totally understand if you doing the same journey in a very regular basis, in fairly similar weather conditions, then naturally you feel resetting the trips is unnecessary.
I understand this totally, because the GOM has become pretty much redundant and can therefore be disregarded.
Because you are more than fully confident that the car will make the trip every single time.
A different matter if you are setting off on a NEW trip that you have never conducted before and you are basing your trip on the over inflated predicted range on the GOM.
Erh ….. No thanks, I prefer to reset the GOM for this type of journey thanks.
I think we al know by now, just what the car is capable range of the car is now.
And it’s not an over inflated range of 215 miles ( that I have seen ) that’s wishful thinking.
The weather conditions in the U.K. are subject to constant changes as we all know.
Your previous trip could have been at 21 degrees, no wind, no HVAC and one person in the car, on a flat road, diving with efficiency in mind.
You achieve 5 m/kWh.
The following day, it is heavy rain and wind, you have the car fully loaded the heater is on.
This is a new trip that you have never done before, it is over the mountains and you intend to use the predicted range on the GOM without resetting your trips ?.
Good luck !.
Keep your AA recovery card close by .

 

[Pict]

Everyone has their own preferences of course

 

[Pict]

Keep your AA recovery card close by .

Why? I don't drive around oblivious to gauges/indications/GOM. I can easily see when the battery is getting low even if GOM gives contrary advice.

This is a new trip that you have never done before, it is over the mountains and you intend to use the predicted range on the GOM without resetting your trips ?.

I think I said if the upcoming journey is going to differ from that on which the current range is calculated then a reset may be in order

 

[Lovemyev]

Why? I don't drive around oblivious to gauges/indications/GOM. I can easily see when the battery is getting low even if GOM gives contrary advice.

Okay - I am curious to learn how do you judge your remaining range then ?.
Can I guess you using the white bars on the on the HV battery gauge then ?.
If so, then why not reset the trips meters at the beginning of the longer trips ?.
At least the predicted range offered by the GOM and the HV battery indicator gauge is working on a similar basis ?.
In bright sun light, the white bars on the HV gauge can be difficult to see, so you toddle the HV battery switch that displays the GOM reading.
You have not reset the accumulative range, so the prediction is over estimated.
This could create a small problem.
Nobody is suggesting that either method used is right or wrong, it’s what ever the individual is more comfortable with.
For first owners of an EV - I would suggest a reset of the trips to avoid any confusion.
Maybe we can agree on that at least .

 

[JodyS21]

Okay - I am curious to learn how do you judge your remaining range then ?.
Can I guess you using the white bars on the on the HV battery gauge then ?.
If so, then why not reset the trips meters at the beginning of the longer trips ?.
At least the predicted range offered by the GOM and the HV battery indicator gauge is working on a similar basis ?.
In bright sun light, the white bars on the HV gauge can be difficult to see, so you toddle the HV battery switch that displays the GOM reading.
You have not reset the accumulative range, so the prediction is over estimated.
This could create a small problem.
Nobody is suggesting that either method used is right or wrong, it’s what ever the individual is more comfortable with.
For first owners of an EV - I would suggest a reset of the trips to avoid any confusion.
Maybe we can agree on that at least .

Worth saying what’s been said at other times for any newbies:
The HV battery gauge/white bars are not a consistent scale for how much battery there is, which makes it very difficult to use it to simply see your remaining battery percentage.
Personally I don’t even look at it because of this.
In a smallish battery EV, the precise battery remaining is so important, it’s not a good idea to rely on a rough non linear gauge.

 

[SCB86]

Worth saying what’s been said at other times for any newbies:
The HV battery gauge/white bars are not a consistent scale for how much battery there is, which makes it very difficult to use it to simply see your remaining battery percentage.
Personally I don’t even look at it because of this.
In a smallish battery EV, the precise battery remaining is so important, it’s not a good idea to rely on a rough non linear gauge.

Just a shame MG don't see fit to give us a battery percentage!

 

[Maylandmale]

So, had a knocking on my steering wheel. Took it into local dealer. Not sorted yet. They are ordering a part. However the car is fine to drive so I do have it back. However: before the car went in my GOM would show 213 on a full charge. On my first full charge since having it back, it’s down to 156! Showing 449v. Is it simply because they’ve reset everything and the miles will come back up shortly? I don’t know if they’ve done anything with the BMS - hope not! Will speak to them Monday to see but just wondering if anyone had any thoughts?
Shawn

I'm glad I'm not the only one with a knocking from the steering column, I have read somewhere in here that the tilt mechanism needs tightening.

 

[Lovemyev]

I'm glad I'm not the only one with a knocking from the steering column, I have read somewhere in here that the tilt mechanism needs tightening.

I have it also, like a few other owners.
It has not deteriorated any further, but it is still knocks when travelling from lock to lock.
Some owners have cured the problem by tightening the steering column mechanism, while some have had the complete steering column replaced under warranty.

 

[SCB86]

MG told me there was nothing wrong with my steering despite an obvious clunk and slight play. We shouldn't have to be making adjustments to a safety critical part just because MG can't build them properly and the dealers are useless.

 

[Kithmo]

On mine I had to tighten the tilt mechanism nut to the extent that the tilt lever was no longer functional, i.e. too tight to move. It seems to have cured it, though I no longer have tilt adjustment.