USW300 sub installation

[wylex4]

Hello all!
I have just purchased an Inphase USW300 sub and would like to install it in my MGZS EV (2021)

I have two queries I wanted to ask:

1. What is the best route to run the power lead to the battery? I’m struggling to find a location on the firewall where I can sneak in with an editing cable.

2. I am intending to wire it using the High Level method as the standard headunit does not have RCA outputs. Can someone explain the best way to splice into the speaker cables. I have taken the head unit out and identified which are the cables I need to join to, but unsure of the best method or location to join to them and run back to the sub.

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

[rayzfun]

You’re going to have problems using the high level input as MG4 DK has found. You’re going to need to get a high to low line converter as the head unit will not recognise the amp or sub. I’ve just purchased a Kenwood kac-m1184 and for it to work a kicker kisload4 line converter

 

[wylex4]

You’re going to have problems using the high level input as MG4 DK has found. You’re going to need to get a high to low line converter as the head unit will not recognise the amp or sub. I’ve just purchased a Kenwood kac-m1184 and for it to work a kicker kisload4 line converter

Ah ok, I’ll have a look at that. Thanks!

 

[scoobeesnac]

How did you get on @wylex4 ? I'm thinking of doing the same - I assume it worked well with tapping the speaker wires - are you happy with the sub?

As a follow-up to this - I tried the USW300 direct to the high-level inputs, the pin out seems to be the same as the MG4 on the ZS EV MK2 - where all speakers are featured along the top of the connectors.

Unfortunately the sub didn't add anything to the car from my test, the speakers themselves seem to hit 40Hz and so the sub wasn't quite the solution I was looking for - I wanted to reduce the door vibrations and get 'more' filling bass at lower volumes but the sub seemed to either add nothing or make a lot of occasional boomy muddiness. I read that the suggestion was to put the head-unit bass at 0 - but that lowered the bass to the sub further, even on max. gain and highest cut-over.

The other issue was that it would benefit from a switched live connection as the supplied battery connection is permanent live - not great for an EV.

I expect it would help to add some sound insulation to the doors and probably upgrade the system if I want to move forward on that - just wanted to mention this in case anyone else was thinking about the same.