V2L

[BugEyed]

If you have a solar/battery system it is possible that your system may have an AC Generator input. I guess this could be used?

Not all of these meet the requirements for connection to the UK grid. Check before using it.

 

[Coulomb]

Not all of these meet the requirements for connection to the UK grid.

Usually, the generator input won't connect to the grid, only to your house loads. I suppose that doesn't necessarily prevent some authority from trying to stop you.

Some inverters can blend AC-in (grid or generator) with solar and/or battery (if present), so you could use the car to supply only the shortfall between solar and the present load; there are all sorts of ways you can configure this. If the inverter accidentally burped some energy back into the V2L connection, it would (I believe) merely charge the car battery with that energy. But it sure helps to know what you're doing before you attempt anything like this.

My pair of PIP-4048MS inverters (now nearly 6 years old, but uprated versions are still available) only have one AC input; you connect them to either the grid or a generator, never both. They don't have the ability to blend AC-in with solar or house battery. If you connect a generator, the generator has to carry all of the load or none of it (only charging the house battery). So I would not be able to run my whole house from a V2L car without upgrading my solar energy system. But if the house battery gets low, the inverter might put the whole house load on the V2L, possibly overloading it.

Though I could use my separate 48 V battery charger to charge the house battery directly; then the house battery and/or solar could supply the shortfall between load and what the car can supply via the 48 V battery charger. AC-in would still be connected to the grid, so if the house battery gets low, it would merely switch to grid power.

So IF I were to update to a facelift ZS EV, I might consider wiring the separate house battery charger permanently with an inlet near the carport. On days when the house battery runs low but the car has spare energy, I could just plug the car into that inlet via a suitable cable, and top up the house battery so I can continue to avoid buying somewhat-dirty-but-slowly-getting-cleaner grid energy.

With four sources of power (car battery, house battery, solar, grid), there are a lot of combinations to consider.

 

[inneseaton]

In conclusion:

V2L does work without powering up the car to READY State, so DRLs do not have to be on and the car can be locked.

There is a drain on the 12V battery when V2L is enabled in this way - It appears that the software in the car does not look after the 12V battery when V2L is active and car is off and it may flatten the battery making it impossible to start the car if V2L is used for extended times - suggest to give yourselves two hours use before at least using the app to connect to the car.

Using the App to quiz the car will revive the battery. However, there is a momentary loss in the output to the V2L when the App connects to the car.

Note that the drain on the 12V battery is not related to the power draw on the V2L connector. Merely having the V2L enabled causes the drain in 12V battery.

If the car is on and in the READY State then the 12V battery is not an issue.

I can second this - exactly the same experience with our ZS EV when camping recently.

 

[Coulomb]

The contactors have to be on when V2L is running, so the DC-DC is available. I can't see why the auxiliary battery wouldn't be charged, certainly it should not be draining. Unless I'm missing something major, this has to be an easily fixed goof in some firmware. Frustrating.

Watching some BYD videos recently, it seems that at least BYD seem to be treating firmware and apps as important. SAIC should take note. SAIC will have competition in the value for money market segment very soon, and poor software certainty turns customers off (if not before their first purchase, certainly by the next purchase).

 

[aleks57]

In order for the DC-AC inverter to start working, voltage is needed to start it and maintain it in working condition. so use 12V battery.
please excuse my english

 

[Poor yoric]

Just to add (as it was us that had to call the AA to the campsite):

When V2L is connected and the car is powered down (yes, it works fine) - there is a 2 amp load on the 12v starter battery. Nobody who has looked at the car can figure out why or what this is for, but it is there nonetheless. Just bear in mind that if you plan to leave the V2L plugged in for any length of time, the 12v battery may take a beating! The only way we managed to get round this was leave the car in Ready state (DRLs on).

This does somewhat limit the usefulness of V2L (we only intended to use it when camping to avoid paying for electric hookup).

If you connect to the VTL adaptor using a 2-way mains adaptor, could you not also run a charger to keep the 12v battery topped up?

 

[MichaelJHunt]

If you connect to the VTL adaptor using a 2-way mains adaptor, could you not also run a charger to keep the 12v battery topped up?

I have a trickle charger so will try this.

 

[Coulomb]

In order for the DC-AC inverter to start working, voltage is needed to start it and maintain it in working condition. so use 12V battery.

Yes, you need that small puff of energy from the auxiliary battery to pull in the contactors, perform pre-charge, etc. But as soon as you do, you have the DC-DC available to replace that energy and more, and hold in the contactors via energy from the main battery via the DC-DC.

 

[MichaelJHunt]

Installed the Thai ODB2 onto my Android Dongle.

Using the app I can turn off the DRLs.

Maybe useful for those using V2L if they are powering up the car for overnight power while camping.

 

[Lovemyev]

I have a trickle charger so will try this.

I was just about to ask this question, when @aleks57 beat me to it .
Connecting a small smart charger ( Like the CTEK unit ) to the 12 volt battery, while using the V2L ?.
But turning off the DRL’s is a great shout @MichaelJHunt.
Belt and braces, I never travel anywhere with out my 12 volt booster pack.
It lives in its case, stored under the drivers front seat.
I use to carry it in the boot, but thought better of it, so it’s is better sited under the drivers seat, for use in an emergency situation.
It could be different to access, if the battery is completely flat !.
I bought it straight away, when we first had our ZS EV Gen 1.
Strangely enough, I have used it plenty of times to help out other ICE owners, but never in anger on our EV’s !.
Fingers crossed I never have too !.

 

[drmcw]

Caught some of the MG4 podcast yesterday and one bit that stood out for me was when Miles said that the MG V2L has a different resistance to other V2L so you cannot use the Kia or Hyundai adapters for example. Is the 470 ohm resistor correct? I haven't seen anyone get an official MG "discharge gun" yet, so wondering if the resistor could be "wrong" and the reason the 12V battery is not being charged? Wishful thinking I suppose and suspect the reason is just design as usual!

 

[Coulomb]

I haven't seen anyone get an official MG "discharge gun" yet, so wondering if the resistor could be "wrong" and the reason the 12V battery is not being charged?

I suppose it's possible, but I really highly doubt it. For all the world, it looks like the computer monitoring the type-2 port is just checking for a yes / no answer: is this resistance indicating V2L, or is it indicating a charge cord amp capacity? Having a "yes but don't charge the auxiliary battery" answer just makes no sense, at least to me.

[ Edit: added "auxiliary". ]

 

[MichaelJHunt]

Caught some of the MG4 podcast yesterday and one bit that stood out for me was when Miles said that the MG V2L has a different resistance to other V2L so you cannot use the Kia or Hyundai adapters for example. Is the 470 ohm resistor correct? I haven't seen anyone get an official MG "discharge gun" yet, so wondering if the resistor could be "wrong" and the reason the 12V battery is not being charged? Wishful thinking I suppose and suspect the reason is just design as usual!

The issue is the software in the car, not the resistor in the cable.

 

[drmcw]

Just seen a bit more of the podcast and at 1:02:45 the V2L question is raised and looks like Miles will ask the question.

 

[Gadget Geek]

Hi folks,

Currently experiencing a power cut since 01:30. If I had my MG ZS TLR, I could just plug in and run a few things. As it is, I have an inverter connected to my Kona 12V accessory battery in utility mode, an extension cable through the back door and a few home comforts plugged in to that. Won't quite power the kettle unfortunately.

 

[Lovemyev]

Won't quite power the kettle unfortunately.

Maybe consider purchasing one of these for the future ?.
Handy 1 litre kettle rated at 1000 Watts, ideal for use on the move with our V2L cable as well !.

Amazon product ASIN B06XC1RQFV

 

[Gadget Geek]

Maybe consider purchasing one of these for the future ?.
Handy 1 litre kettle rated at 1000 Watts, ideal for use on the move with our V2L cable as well !.

Amazon product ASIN B06XC1RQFV

Already got one, just got it out of the garage.

 

[Lovemyev]

Already got one, just got it out of the garage.

Boom - Sorted !.

 

[Les burrows]

Caught some of the MG4 podcast yesterday and one bit that stood out for me was when Miles said that the MG V2L has a different resistance to other V2L so you cannot use the Kia or Hyundai adapters for example. Is the 470 ohm resistor correct? I haven't seen anyone get an official MG "discharge gun" yet, so wondering if the resistor could be "wrong" and the reason the 12V battery is not being charged? Wishful thinking I suppose and suspect the reason is just design as usual!

Would appear this chap did some testing on this subject in this video in the other thread.
Les.

 

[Susanna]

@Gadget Geek
I have started to make my coffee in the microwave - guarantees that I only heat exactly what I need, and I could run that from the MG in the event of a power cut (if only I had it……)