Which LED bulbs for MG ZS EV side repeaters?

SCB86

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So today I changed all of my external and internal bulbs for LED but I'm having issues with the side repeaters. I can't find LED bulbs that don't cause hyper flash, despite buying two different types of "canbus" compatible bulbs.

Have of you guys managed to find any that work? It irks me that they're the only bulbs left on the car that I can't change to LED.
 
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Seems like a lot of faff for something that doesn’t really need doing. What exactly are the benefits?
Personal preference; I like the crisp colour, extra brightness and instant illumination of LED's.
LED brake lights in particular have been proven to reduce stopping distances of cars behind due to the immediate nature of them lighting up, it reduces reaction time.
You can say the headlight bulbs don't need upgrading, but doesn't mean it's not worth it for the extra light upgraded bulbs provide etc.
Plus on an electric car I think all bulbs should be LED to help reduce battery drain (not much obviously)
 
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Seems like a lot of faff for something that doesn’t really need doing. What exactly are the benefits?
I found the original headlight's very poor, I didn't fell comfortable with that output. So I changed to LED's, and it was really an uplifting experience. See the pictures and you will see.
I also changed reverse, interior and trunk light. And maybe more will come.
LED's for me is both about safety and good looks.
 

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So today I changed all of my external and internal bulbs for LED but I'm having issues with the side repeaters. I can't find LED bulbs that don't cause hyper flash, despite buying two different types of "canbus" compatible bulbs.

Have of you guys managed to find any that work? It irks me that they're the only bulbs left on the car that I can't change to LED.
Hi SCB,

Yesterday I finally got round to changing the indicator LED's in the rear.

I used the Twenty20 ones for the front and they work fine without any Hyperflshing whatsoever, but they don't do the WY16W equivalent for the rear at the moment so I bought the rather expensive "Cree Bulbs" from LedPerf.com which claim 100% guaranteed against hyper flashing and Cambus errors.

Guess what? as soon as I fitted the "Cree bulbs" to my MG ZS EV I got Hyperflashing! so had to refit the incandescent bulbs back in.

I must admit the Red Stop/Tail and Tail LED bulbs in the rear make the car look great, much better than the "washed out red" look of the incandescent bulbs, but for me I have given up on the indicators unless anyone else had had success changing these without creating hyperflashing.

One solution would be to change the flasher relay for an electronic type, not on option on this type of vehicle as the flashing evidently (I have found out) is controlled by the cars management computer, so no flasher relay installed at all.

I don't want to go down the route of installing resistors, as for heat dissipation, you have to drill and screw the body of the resistors to the bodywork of the car - not an option on a new car.

But at least the front LED's look good and more distinguishable over the previous bulbs.

Andy (Blackpool)
 
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Hi Andy,
I was hoping that a flash relay could be the solution if I was to make the change my self. But now I can rule that out😒
 
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Hi Andy,
I was hoping that a flash relay could be the solution if I was to make the change my self. But now I can rule that out😒
Hi Jeps,

From what I learned from another forum, the clicking sound you hear during indicating or using the hazard warning lights comes from the drivers door speaker, and is generated by the cars management computer, which also controls the flashing rate.

I believe on some cars you can change the setting to LED or Incandescent in the computer software, but thats a dealer level option and until the law is updated, they wouldn't implement that in the UK.

I changed the headlights to LED which have improved visibility and aesthetic look, as the colour matches the running lights and the rear Red LED’s also make a nice improvement.

I have also changed the numberplate, interior passenger and boot bulbs for LED which are much brighter and better than before.

Andy (Blackpool)
 
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Hi SCB,

Yesterday I finally got round to changing the indicator LED's in the rear.

I used the Twenty20 ones for the front and they work fine without any Hyperflshing whatsoever, but they don't do the WY16W equivalent for the rear at the moment so I bought the rather expensive "Cree Bulbs" from LedPerf.com which claim 100% guaranteed against hyper flashing and Cambus errors.

Guess what? as soon as I fitted the "Cree bulbs" to my MG ZS EV I got Hyperflashing! so had to refit the incandescent bulbs back in.

I must admit the Red Stop/Tail and Tail LED bulbs in the rear make the car look great, much better than the "washed out red" look of the incandescent bulbs, but for me I have given up on the indicators unless anyone else had had success changing these without creating hyperflashing.

One solution would be to change the flasher relay for an electronic type, not on option on this type of vehicle as the flashing evidently (I have found out) is controlled by the cars management computer, so no flasher relay installed at all.

I don't want to go down the route of installing resistors, as for heat dissipation, you have to drill and screw the body of the resistors to the bodywork of the car - not an option on a new car.

But at least the front LED's look good and more distinguishable over the previous bulbs.

Andy (Blackpool)
Hi Andy,

If you want bulbs that don't cause hyper flash for the rear these are what I fitted.
eBay item number: 124096970464

Theyre only £8 and whilst not as bright as the Twenty20 front bulbs they're still brighter than the originals and cause zero issues 👍🏻

Now if I could just find similar bulbs for the side repeaters....! 😭
 
Upvote 0
Hi Andy,

If you want bulbs that don't cause hyper flash for the rear these are what I fitted.
eBay item number: 124096970464

Theyre only £8 and whilst not as bright as the Twenty20 front bulbs they're still brighter than the originals and cause zero issues 👍🏻

Now if I could just find similar bulbs for the side repeaters....! 😭
Hi SCB,

Have you tried the Twenty20 ones yet in the side repeaters?

I will give the one you suggested a try.

How did you find getting the mirror glass out?

Did it unclip easily or do you think using a sucker would be a better option as a removal tool rather than sprising the glass from the bottom as it says in the manual?

Andy (Blackpool)
 
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I like it, I'll probably do the same.
18 months and 2 years at the very max for me, I get bored with the same old car (unless its a classic, but even then my Minis & Fords could do with a change if the price was right.
 
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Hi Andy,

If you want bulbs that don't cause hyper flash for the rear these are what I fitted.
eBay item number: 124096970464

Theyre only £8 and whilst not as bright as the Twenty20 front bulbs they're still brighter than the originals and cause zero issues 👍🏻

Now if I could just find similar bulbs for the side repeaters....! 😭
Hi SCB.
Do the bulbs have a name? I don't seem to be able to find them on the item number.
 
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Hi SCB.
Do the bulbs have a name? I don't seem to be able to find them on the item number.
Not sure why the item number doesn't work.

Put this in to the search bar:

2x T15 W16W 20 SMD 3030 Error Free Canbus LED Car Reverse Back Light Bulbs Amber
 
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Hi SCB,

Have you tried the Twenty20 ones yet in the side repeaters?

I will give the one you suggested a try.

How did you find getting the mirror glass out?

Did it unclip easily or do you think using a sucker would be a better option as a removal tool rather than sprising the glass from the bottom as it says in the manual?

Andy (Blackpool)
It takes some bravery to pull the glass off - the handbook tells you to tilt the glass manually upwards and prise it off. I managed it several times, you just have to get past the worry of breaking it.

There are three Philips screws to undo and then a clip behind that that the plastic wing mirror cover is attached with. I ended breaking tabs on both of my mirrors but it went back together no issue.

The bulb holder is held in with two screws. Once you undo those the bulb holder is pressure fitted and held in with sealant/hot glue.
The handbook says you need to reseal it after changing the bulbs.
However I found that you can push it back in with the old sealant in place.

After putting it all back together I suggest trying the heated mirrors to make sure they work and also your blind spot monitoring light.

It tells you in the manual to disconnect the wiring that attaches to the glass, but seeing as it's so fragile I didn't. It's possible to unclip the glass and let it hang down without damaging the wiring and then dismantling the housing.
 
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