@MickeySw, you may be right and I agree that 14.7/8 is too high unless it is charging, hence my request for the conditions under which measurements are taken.

I have never seen a voltage above 12.8V when using the App so I would say that using the App does not normally trigger the DC-DC Converter. However, there is at least one occasion when this does happen which I have just checked, as described below.

My car is connected to my Ohme e-Pod, not charging but with a car-schedule set for 0:30 start to battery set limit (UK Octopus Go). I used the App to check the LV battery which showed with refreshes, 12.3V, 12.2V, 12.1V, 12.2V. I exited the App and checked the Ohme App which showed the car had started charging. Accessing the App again showed the battery level to be 14.2V which, to me, means the DC-DC Converter is active. I have also seen this when the charging has been completed and I have accessed the iSmart App to see if charging had been completed. (Now I use the Ohme App.)

It is probable that the early start of the charging with a car-schedule is part of the software that pauses charging when a locked car is unlocked but resumes charging a little while later, irrespective of the locked state.

As for not needing boosting, it could be that there is an LV battery drain and the car has automatically activated the DC-DC converter and that @DoctorWolf just happened to view the battery level at that time.

@DoctorWolf will need to take a series of readings using the App with the car powered off (not just out of Ready mode) and locked and not connected to an EVSE/Charger to see if the LV battery drains significantly. Perhaps the dealer will do that.
 
Accessing the App again showed the battery level to be 14.2V which, to me, means the DC-DC Converter is active.
14.2V sounds about right, 14.8V seems therefore way too high for a MG4
As for not needing boosting, it could be that there is an LV battery drain and the car has automatically activated the DC-DC converter and that @DoctorWolf just happened to view the battery level at that time.
Too much of a coincidence imho.

My best guess is that somehow the low voltage isn't always read correctly which triggers the faults when driving and activates the DC/DC unnecessarily when the car is off?
Perhaps the dealer will do that.
Nice try...
 

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