Anyone fitted a Dash Cam yet? If so how did it go? Touch Screen with gloves on?

The ZS ev has a usb port directly behind the rear view mirror which is a fabulous idea. Small 5 inch mini usb cable and job done. Took about 30 seconds.
I have fitted at least 5 dashcams on family cars. None were difficult. You can buy a piggyback fuse kit for a few pounds on Ebay. Find a 5v fuse that is not powered when the ignition is off, connect to there then run the cable behind the dash panel at and behind the A pillar and across the window trim to the camera. Its not hard, and there was no wire showing anywhere on any of my installs.
 

4 Pcs Car Trim Removal Tool Kit Panel Door Pry Dash Interior Clip Set Plastic UK​


This will be your best friend.
 
Kapper2 said:
I was going to go with Halfords to get mine fitted but read that they didnt' install on hybrids, so went with RAC - they came to the house and fitted both cameras for me. For my fuse I asked them to fit it to the live ignition - i didn't want them to fit it to a fuse that would leave it on all the time. As an FYI - I had the 622W + rear camera.
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Halfords done mine, works well, they done a cracking job, this is my 3rd car they have done now
 
Is the MG one not available in UK ?

Fitted as Standard extra here


Screenshot_20220507-120557_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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I have partly removed the end panel from the dash but no fuse box/board seems to be immediately visible, does the face panel (With the drop down tray) also need removing, I noticed a couple of screws that hold it in place were visible when the end panel was pulled away. I have not removed the end panel fully due to lack of time.
 
Hi A
If you take a look through the drop down box you will see the fuse board behind it you have to take the the side panel off remove the screws to move forward the dash
 
ajw1100 said:
I have partly removed the end panel from the dash but no fuse box/board seems to be immediately visible, does the face panel (With the drop down tray) also need removing, I noticed a couple of screws that hold it in place were visible when the end panel was pulled away. I have not removed the end panel fully due to lack of time.
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Pull away the door rubber from the end panel.
Remove the end panel, there is a little screwdriver gap at the bottom.
Remove the two black self tapping screws from the end that become visable.
Then you need to remove the whole panel that houses the bonnet and fuel cap release.
A couple of firm tugs at the bottom of this panel should do it, it pulls away.
Hey Presto, fuse box!
 
chilljohn said:
not sure if you have already seen and discounted this way , i used just the ignition on option listed in the pdf with a garmin mini 2 , no issues at all (link can take a few mins to start loading so if blank give it a min Dash Cam Link
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Great photos and tutorial so as I had some time to try this today. Removed the end panel and 2 screws, then set about the lower dash panel. Tried to remove the panel starting from the right side and managed to get it to come away a little, then tried the left side, wouldn't budge. After about 20 mins of struggle trying pull this way and that way. Got a mirror under the dash to try to see where and what was holding it in place I gave up and then returned the lower panel right side to its original seating, (its gone back but does not seem to be exactly 100% correct as the tongues on the moulding by the 2 screws is not quite tight) and I have replaced the 2 screws, side cover and trim.
When you say "Prise down to lower trim panel" I am somewhat at a loss, do you insert a prise tool in the slot on the upper edge of panel and lower edge of dash panel or pull down using leverage at the bottom edge? I did not want to damage the dash so tried to remove from the bottom, obviously not the best option!

If a fuse blew when you were out and about you'd probably need the AA to replace it! Why hide the fuse box and make it so difficult to access?
 
ajw1100 said:
Great photos and tutorial so as I had some time to try this today. Removed the end panel and 2 screws, then set about the lower dash panel. Tried to remove the panel starting from the right side and managed to get it to come away a little, then tried the left side, wouldn't budge. After about 20 mins of struggle trying pull this way and that way. Got a mirror under the dash to try to see where and what was holding it in place I gave up and then returned the lower panel right side to its original seating, (its gone back but does not seem to be exactly 100% correct as the tongues on the moulding by the 2 screws is not quite tight) and I have replaced the 2 screws, side cover and trim.
When you say "Prise down to lower trim panel" I am somewhat at a loss, do you insert a prise tool in the slot on the upper edge of panel and lower edge of dash panel or pull down using leverage at the bottom edge? I did not want to damage the dash so tried to remove from the bottom, obviously not the best option!

If a fuse blew when you were out and about you'd probably need the AA to replace it! Why hide the fuse box and make it so difficult to access?
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The lower panel confused be for a while. After removing the end panel and screws, pull the bottom of the main lower panel from the bottom along it's length, it does just pull off. I found by pulling along the lower edge for a while it just pops off. There is nothing holding it on apart from plastic retainers that pull out.

It worried me that I would break it but after a few tugs on the lower edge it started to pop off.

With the panel removed, it's easy to find and use a fuse, the A pillar guard reveals a channel once the door rubber is pulled off and the roof lining hides the cables be just pushing it into the void above. All quite easy, but a little nerve wracking when doing it on a new car.
 
Thank you a1970man, I will have another go, close my eyes and pull..........


EDIT:
Okay, is that pull down to floor or pull back to seat?

It sure is nerve racking on a new car, more so when it's your own :cautious:
 
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ajw1100 said:
Thank you a1970man, I will have another go, close my eyes and pull..........


EDIT:
Okay, is that pull down to floor or pull back to seat?

It sure is nerve racking on a new car, more so when it's your own :cautious:
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Pull back to seat. Start at one corner and give a gentle tug every few inches. You're looking for one bit to give a little then move along to slow pop each lug a little. Don't pull just in one place, you need to ease the panel off all together.

Once your done you'll look at the back and see how it works.
 
Well, spent about an hour and a half this morning, got end panel off and removed two screws. Gently began to pull the panel away evenly starting from the door end, all went well but needed a good pull along the bottom edge. Got as far as the last 'clip?' above the OBD socket, it just did not want to let go :(
tried looking in the gap from lower panel edge, no go. Got out my endoscope and poked that up but still could not identify the problem.
By feel it seems there is a clip to the far left of the panel near the top edge and maybe one at the lower edge.
Anyone taken a piccy of the reverse side of the panel? :unsure:
 
If/when anyone succeeds in removing the lower panel to access the fuses would you please take a photo of the reverse side of the panel and where it attaches to the main dash?

Thank you

(y)(y)(y)(y)
 
ajw1100 said:
I fitted a dash cam to my present car and connected it to the fuse box, I would like to do this to the HS (when I get it) if it is reasonably possible for a DIY job. Any suggestions?

Just thought that come the cold weather and no heating without ICE on does the touch screen function if you have gloves on? It would be a bit of a faff if you had to take one off to make a change :unsure:.
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Garage connected my dash cam from previous car, I hadn’t noticed that it wasn’t connected via the ignition so when I parked at the airport it hadn’t switched off and when I got back the battery was flat, make sure they don’t wire it up this way.
 
I have the Nextbase 522GW, for around 10,00 miles now - it's been fine. Hardwired in by the MG garage in Gloucester, for about £40. Painless. the extra wiring kit was £20 from Halfords who declined to fit it, saying they weren't sure how.
 
Single Mom said:
I fitted the Nextbase 522GW camera myself last Sunday into the car using the cigarette lighter and also a back camera. It was easy and is all working fine. `I am looking into getting it hardwired. I had an appointment booked with Halfords to get it done. Just before my appointment someone else who had the same car as mine was just having the camera remove for the third time. So they refused to put the camera in my car for me. So that is when i went home and did it myself. I called MG garage to ask about fitting a camera in hardwire they didn’t encourage getting one fitted. I then phone Nextbase they was very helpful and said it can be done. I have looked at videos online also. So i may try it myself. If anyone has done the hardwired which fuse did they use. I was thinking of using horn or the USB charger.
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I have one but run to the USB port , I have a wire kit but I don’t know what the fuses are on the drivers side by door. I have a phev
 
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