Battery balancing

JodyS21 said:
350-400mAmps @ 450V is 180Watts, so that roughly matches the 200watts that @Lovemyev has recorded.
I don't quite get where your 1.7kW comes into it?
If your balancing is lasting 2 hours @ 400mA/180Watts, then it will have used 360kWh of power to do the balance.

The length of time it takes to balance depends on how imbalanced the battery is, we "know" it can only balance(move) a tiny amount per hour, I can't remember the figure - 1mA per hour or was it 10mA? that is the amount it can change/move per (180) cell I think it was (or is was it per cell pack (9)...
Also, I think we worked out from various peoples figures that it stops balancing once the min to max cell difference is down to about 0.016-0.020Volts. This figure could easily be a BMS configured number.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I was wrong, 1.6 - 1.7A at 230V, this is no more than 0.4 kW. Dong when balancing shows 350 - 400 mA. Initially, balancing starts at 11A, but no more than 1 minute, with an initial charge of 30.5A. Then it drops to 1.6 - 1.7A.
 
Lovemyev said:
No - I tried to resist submitting back to the dealer after the last episode !.
Nothing was touched in the car or the wall box !.
It ( for some unexplained reason ) started to charge correctly by pulling 7.1 kw’s ( as it should ) from a low state of charge ?.
Only tonight, I have decided to let the car fully charge and then balance.
We have a longer trip to make in the morning ( Monday ) and I want to do the outward and home trip on the single charge.
So, I have allowed the car to fully charge then balance.
It did the very same cycle, charged at 7.1 kw’s right up to around 97 - 98% - Then the car reduced the charge from the wall box, down to about 3.5 kw’s until it hit 100% fully charged.
At this point, my energy meter dropped to displaying about 500 ish Watts.
The car then reduced the demand right down again, when the balance was near to completing ( about 175 kw’s ).
Shortly after this, it stopped receiving anything from the wall box by opening the conductor inside the box with a “Thump”.
As best as I could tell from my energy meter, the balance time had taken just over three hours ( ish ).
Still a little longer than I expected and a bit more time than it did ( I think ) on the previous OEM factory software.
From memory, the balance then would usually take roughly, about one hour ( ish ).
I must truly admit, that I don’t balance every time I charge.
I only charge to a SOC that will cover our requirements over the coming days.
Shorter trips, I tend to only charger to around 80 - 85 %.
If I am travelling further, then I will charge to 100% and then allow the pack to conduct a balance cycle at the end.
The latter BMS update ( 15th Jan 2021 ) does give a bigger buffer at the top of the pack I believe.
This is very evident, because stronger Regen is even available when the car is fully charged !.
To have this higher level of Regen at the higher given SOC - then this regained energy has to go somewhere !.
It is being given back into the space created in the pack, by the latest update in my opinion.
It is welcome of course, but the car does react differently than it did prior to the update, but in a good way !.
I have to admit, that I have stopped stressing / chasing / matching the same balancing pack time, as the older BMS update.
Repeatability charging to the Max and then more & more hours of charging in an attempt to restore the shorter balance time has kind of taken a bit of a back seat now.
Of course, I do still carry out a balnce process, but not every single time I charge.
It becomes obsessive if you are not very careful !.
Banging the HV battery right up to 100% fully charged - then have it sit there for a couple of days, does not sit well with me sorry.
Pre update, I would charge to suit our travel needs, short trips locally and I would charge to about 80 - 85% SOC.
If I had a longer trip to take, then yes of course I would charge to 100% and then allow the charger to balance the pack.
What is right and wrong, will only manifest itself in years to come I guess ?.
I just don’t hold with the idea of fully charging the HV pack and then not using the car for days on end, leaving the pack bursting to capacity, can not help with the long term health of the HV battery surely ?.
I know will say that this is not important, because if the buffer at the top of the pack !.
But if MG have increased the size of this upper buffer on the latest update ( and the cars leaving the factory are in the same condition ) then why have they done this ?.
I personally think they are looking to protect the life cycle of the HV packs somehow.
Click to expand...
That is so weird it just eventually going from 3.5 to 7.
Was it only doing 3.5 on other wall chargers too to you know, that would indicate that it’s def the car & not the wall box that was deciding to only allow 3.5.
Unlike the car(!) I guess all the smart wall chargers are connected to the internet so could be getting updates that we don’t know about potentially.

I really wish my Ohme supplied charging data so I could see afterwards what power was being used and when, would also know when the balance was being done & duration.
As I mentioned I used to have a quick look back on my cctv cam to look when the mg badge changes, but now it’s light early in the mornings I can’t make it out!!

Yep we know the buffers bigger at the top I’ve got the obd2 that shows it.
I doubt we’ll ever know if charging to the indicated 100% is really near enough to the real 100% to cause issues, like you though I wouldn’t charge it to full if I wasn’t going to use the car for days.

My charging pattern is based a lot on the octopus go 4hour cheap tariff. Every night it’s automatically scheduled to charge for the whole 4 hour off peak period, sometimes it’s not fully charged/sometimes it is fully charged and it may get some time to do any balancing. On the same 3 days a week when we need a full charge, it comes on when the 4hour period starts and then stays on until it is unplugged. We just don’t plug it in on Friday/Saturday nights.
 
JodyS21 said:
That is so weird it just eventually going from 3.5 to 7.
Was it only doing 3.5 on other wall chargers too to you know, that would indicate that it’s def the car & not the wall box that was deciding to only allow 3.5.
Unlike the car(!) I guess all the smart wall chargers are connected to the internet so could be getting updates that we don’t know about potentially.

I really wish my Ohme supplied charging data so I could see afterwards what power was being used and when, would also know when the balance was being done & duration.
As I mentioned I used to have a quick look back on my cctv cam to look when the mg badge changes, but now it’s light early in the mornings I can’t make it out!!

Yep we know the buffers bigger at the top I’ve got the obd2 that shows it.
I doubt we’ll ever know if charging to the indicated 100% is really near enough to the real 100% to cause issues, like you though I wouldn’t charge it to full if I wasn’t going to use the car for days.

My charging pattern is based a lot on the octopus go 4hour cheap tariff. Every night it’s automatically scheduled to charge for the whole 4 hour off peak period, sometimes it’s not fully charged/sometimes it is fully charged and it may get some time to do any balancing. On the same 3 days a week when we need a full charge, it comes on when the 4hour period starts and then stays on until it is unplugged. We just don’t plug it in on Friday/Saturday nights.
Click to expand...
Yes - It is weird alright !.
The wall box is a 5 year old dumb Rolec unit, with a Wi - Fi relay installed inside to give me access to timed charging on cheaper “Off Peak” rates.
I had a long conversation with one of the Tech’s at Rolec when it was acting strangely with I put the car on charge.
He assured me there was NOTHING inside of the unit or the tethered cable, that had the ability to ramp down the charge received by the car.
He said that in simple / crude terms, the wall box could be described as a giant light switch !.
I understand where he was coming from.
He also said it would be the car that was reducing the demand, there was no other explanation !.
He even offered to speak to the dealer directly, if the problem persisted and there intervention was needed !.
That though, gave me a cold shiver down my spine.
I mean, where do you even START explaining that problem over to them !.
It actually took almost two weeks of trying to plug in the car and get the magic 7.1 kw’s - before the car started to get the idea of what I wanted and started doing the right thing !.
Did I try it on another post, yep - this was the very first thing that I though of.
But we where in full lock down in Wales and trips to the super market was down to one per week.
Our local Tesco had just had two brand new Pod Point 7.0 kw units installed.
I tried the new posts on a couple of occasions, but I could not reproduce the same problem.
I know, this could point to our wall box being the problem.
But I was more than confident is was NOT the wall box.
I have to say, I was extremely happy when the car started excepting the full load / demand on a fairly regular basis.
That was way back in Jan 2021 now and I have now forgotten how many times our wall box has been used to provide a full powered charge to the car.
Thank the Lord !.
I know you are a big supporter of resetting the accumulative trip prior to taking a longer drive.
I am more comfortable with type of practice.
For this very reason, I offer this small example.
We had a pretty decent distance to do today, so last night I topped up the battery.
I charged to 100% and then allowed the car to perform a balance.
The balance took around 3 hours to finally complete.
This morning, when booting into the Ready mode, the voltage on the pack was 449 volts ( all okay here ).
The car was in the default normal mode and Regen level 3.
The predicted range on the GOM was 201 miles !.
I knew this was a very optimistic figure, so I cleared the accumulative total on the trip.
Instantly, it revalued the prediction back down to 159 miles !.
That’s more like it GOM !!!!!!.
My point here is this, you could be fooled into thinking that you can much further than you think, given this 201 miles of predicted range.
Yes !!!!! - I know it is only a prediction folks.
But I can see how some people could be lured into a false state of security and try to achieve that predicted range and fall a lot sort !.
Hacking 40 miles straight off the head of the prediction range in seconds is hard for some people to get their heads around.
It could be seen as “Fools Gold”.
I have owned my ZS EV for 18 months and over 12,500 miles covered.
Therefore I have a better idea than the GOM of what the car can and can not achieve 🤣.
When the trips are reset, the GOM reflects the usage fairly well and is easy to live with.
You just have to be a little cautious when it reports a predicted high milage estimate, that has been predicted against the accumulative miles covered on the trip.
Everybody wants to see a range reported on there GOM as 200 miles.
But we all really know the truth here folks !.
For local stuff, I don’t even bother resetting the accumulative trip.
Trips that are likely to stretch the range ?.
Yep - I am resetting the range before I set off.
What say you ! @JodyS21 .
I think I know the answer already my friend.
Well folks ……… Are you a accumulative tripb“Reseter” before a long trip, or are from the camp of believe what the GOM reports based on that accumulative trip recording ???.
 
Lovemyev said:
Yes - It is weird alright !.
The wall box is a 5 year old dumb Rolec unit, with a Wi - Fi relay installed inside to give me access to timed charging on cheaper “Off Peak” rates.
I had a long conversation with one of the Tech’s at Rolec when it was acting strangely with I put the car on charge.
He assured me there was NOTHING inside of the unit or the tethered cable, that had the ability to ramp down the charge received by the car.
He said that in simple / crude terms, the wall box could be described as a giant light switch !.
I understand where he was coming from.
He also said it would be the car that was reducing the demand, there was no other explanation !.
He even offered to speak to the dealer directly, if the problem persisted and there intervention was needed !.
That though, gave me a cold shiver down my spine.
I mean, where do you even START explaining that problem over to them !.
It actually took almost two weeks of trying to plug in the car and get the magic 7.1 kw’s - before the car started to get the idea of what I wanted and started doing the right thing !.
Did I try it on another post, yep - this was the very first thing that I though of.
But we where in full lock down in Wales and trips to the super market was down to one per week.
Our local Tesco had just had two brand new Pod Point 7.0 kw units installed.
I tried the new posts on a couple of occasions, but I could not reproduce the same problem.
I know, this could point to our wall box being the problem.
But I was more than confident is was NOT the wall box.
I have to say, I was extremely happy when the car started excepting the full load / demand on a fairly regular basis.
That was way back in Jan 2021 now and I have now forgotten how many times our wall box has been used to provide a full powered charge to the car.
Thank the Lord !.
I know you are a big supporter of resetting the accumulative trip prior to taking a longer drive.
I am more comfortable with type of practice.
For this very reason, I offer this small example.
We had a pretty decent distance to do today, so last night I topped up the battery.
I charged to 100% and then allowed the car to perform a balance.
The balance took around 3 hours to finally complete.
This morning, when booting into the Ready mode, the voltage on the pack was 449 volts ( all okay here ).
The car was in the default normal mode and Regen level 3.
The predicted range on the GOM was 201 miles !.
I knew this was a very optimistic figure, so I cleared the accumulative total on the trip.
Instantly, it revalued the prediction back down to 159 miles !.
That’s more like it GOM !!!!!!.
My point here is this, you could be fooled into thinking that you can much further than you think, given this 201 miles of predicted range.
Yes !!!!! - I know it is only a prediction folks.
But I can see how some people could be lured into a false state of security and try to achieve that predicted range and fall a lot sort !.
Hacking 40 miles straight off the head of the prediction range in seconds is hard for some people to get their heads around.
It could be seen as “Fools Gold”.
I have owned my ZS EV for 18 months and over 12,500 miles covered.
Therefore I have a better idea than the GOM of what the car can and can not achieve 🤣.
When the trips are reset, the GOM reflects the usage fairly well and is easy to live with.
You just have to be a little cautious when it reports a predicted high milage estimate, that has been predicted against the accumulative miles covered on the trip.
Everybody wants to see a range reported on there GOM as 200 miles.
But we all really know the truth here folks !.
For local stuff, I don’t even bother resetting the accumulative trip.
Trips that are likely to stretch the range ?.
Yep - I am resetting the range before I set off.
What say you ! @JodyS21 .
I think I know the answer already my friend.
Well folks ……… Are you a accumulative tripb“Reseter” before a long trip, or are from the camp of believe what the GOM reports based on that accumulative trip recording ???.
Click to expand...
That's interesting what Rolec were saying....I don't think they told you the truth....
I was reading the other day about the communications that takes places between car and AC or DC "charger".
There's 2 levels of comms, the simple one which uses pulses on the signal connector - the frequency provided by the wall point informs the car how much power it is allowed to take. (My terminology is probably wrong btw). Then there's the advances comms that can be done over the same signal connector that allows, lets say "digital comms" to take place and this is how things like SOC can be obtained.
From what I read I think the wall point has to tell the car how much power it is allowed to use.
There's been stuff on here about how the wall point company have remotely changed peoples chargers for them to do a different rate, I think Ohme will set the unit to a different figure if you ask them to.
Yours isn't connected to Rolec/internet though, so they can't have changed yours/caused the change.

Yep I always reset the trips when doing a long journey/after it's charged, I like the confirmation that I've got a full tank and not see a potentially unrealistic figure.
The GOM is def not as clever as the human driver lol.

I've prob said this before to you, my memory is terrible! I'm assuming you're not at 100% SoH if you're getting 159 miles on a reset GOM?
If 163 is 100%.....159 would be 97-98%SoH????
 
JodyS21 said:
Yours isn't connected to Rolec/internet though, so they can't have changed yours/caused the change.
Click to expand...
Yeah - The box is an "Old School" dumb basic unit.
To be honest, there is next to nothing inside really.
There is the RCBO breaker on a Din rail.
Then there is a comms unit that is needed to speak to the car and then the main contactor that pulls in / closes when the charge commences.
Thats about it !.
You are right, there is NO option to remotely do ANYTHING !.
There is no CT clamps to monitor the charge rate either.
Simple is good when anything goes wrong of course.
I do believe there is nothing clever enough in this unit or cable that is capable of regulating the charge.
The newer smart units are a totally different kettle of fish.
Regarding the charging percentage.
It differs a little between each charge / balance.
It always REPORTS 100% and the voltage on the pack hovers around the 148 - 149 volts.
I have seen it hit 450 volts after one session.
The reported range also varies slightly, I have seen figures between 159 - 162 miles.
These figures are all taken when the trips have been reset and no pressure on the footbrake on start up.
I guess the value of the imbalance must fluctuate if part charging has taken place.
This may give reason to the differences ??.
 
Lovemyev said:
Yeah - The box is an "Old School" dumb basic unit.
To be honest, there is next to nothing inside really.
There is the RCBO breaker on a Din rail.
Then there is a comms unit that is needed to speak to the car and then the main contactor that pulls in / closes when the charge commences.
Thats about it !.
You are right, there is NO option to remotely do ANYTHING !.
There is no CT clamps to monitor the charge rate either.
Simple is good when anything goes wrong of course.
I do believe there is nothing clever enough in this unit or cable that is capable of regulating the charge.
The newer smart units are a totally different kettle of fish.
Regarding the charging percentage.
It differs a little between each charge / balance.
It always REPORTS 100% and the voltage on the pack hovers around the 148 - 149 volts.
I have seen it hit 450 volts after one session.
The reported range also varies slightly, I have seen figures between 159 - 162 miles.
These figures are all taken when the trips have been reset and no pressure on the footbrake on start up.
I guess the value of the imbalance must fluctuate if part charging has taken place.
This may give reason to the differences ??.
Click to expand...
To be honest, I'd be just as happy with a dumb charge unit that I could just set timers on. The Ohme that I'm using doesn't really actually give me any extra benefits (in fact the opposite I have to bodge it to get it to do what I want from it!)

Hmm, I'm not so sure that the exact voltage 448/449/450 actually alters its calculations, not on mine anyway :unsure:

See my spreadsheet below, my car pretty much always shows 163 miles on the N3 GOM following a full charge and reset/under no load, yet the voltage varies from 448.5 to 450.25.
Based on that, my assumption was that it uses the displayed SoC% multiplied by the WLTP 163 miles, to calculate the default (full reset) GOM. From someone else's data too it consistently looked like this figure was further multiplied by the SoH%.
It really bugs me when there doesn't seem to be a nice consistent algorithm used for things lol!
 
Coulomb said:
How much current it's allowed to use, yes, and therefore pretty much how much power (since the voltage is roughly constant).
Click to expand...
The tech team at Rolec have 100% assured me that there is NO provision in the older type dumb charging units, that can influence the charge rate to the car, both with regards to both inside the wall box or via the tethered cable, as in my case.
There are only three basic components inside of the unit.
1) The main RCBO.
2) The Comms protocol device ( that speaks to the car ).
3) The main contactor that closes and breakers, when the charge either starts or stops when the charge is complete.
That is basically it !.
I was even considering replacing my wall box at the time, in the hope WAS actually caused by the unit.
I was told in no uncertain terms that I would be wasting my money, because this would not cure the problem. The problem was with the car.
It had charged 100% perfectly on this wall box for almost 12 months without a problem, and also charged my previous PHEV for four before that at the lower ( but max rate of 3.5 kw’s that the car was able take by design ).
This problem only started as soon as it was returned from the dealership after it was stuck there for three days, pronounced dead on a lift !.
As a result of the problem they caused while switching out the drivers door wiring loom, they where instructed to upgrade the car to the latest BMS update, at the same time.
MG Tech had been given the data package from the car and was advising on a plan of action, to bring the car back to life !.
I believe my car was one of the first privately owned cars to receive the BMS update released on 15th Jan 2021.
This was the very same day that my car entered the dealership for its first service.
A date that is burnt into my mind !.
 
Lovemyev said:
Hi Cliff.
I would agree with @micky .
If you are only doing “Part Charging” due to your low usage pattern, then I would be tempted to carry out a full charge and balance about once a month, just to help keep the cells balanced.
But if you decide to take this option, try and time it that you use the car within a couple of days after you fully charged and balance.
It is not seen as good practice to fully charge and then leave the battery bursting at the seams for days on end.
This is not a good practice either.
Be kind to your battery 🔋.
Click to expand...
Since the BMS update to maximum voltage of 449V, the usable battery charge range is 2-93% of actual capacity - you cannot fully charge the battery.
It means rapid charge goes fast to 90-95% of displayed charge.
 
How often should I be carrying out a balance charge? I don’t have my EV yet but once I do the majority of my charging will be done off rapid chargers as currently in Northern Ireland alit of the public chargers are free
 
Hi all, I've searched through some forums but not found an answer - the conversation here is the closest I think that relates to my question. I've had my ZS EV for about 3 months now and it drives great. I don't have a driveway so cannot charge/ balance at home. Instead I'm mainly charging at work on a granny charger on the days I go in. This means my charging is limited to the time I'm there and battery gets to about 60/70% charged before I unplug. Only once during this time has it got to 100% charge, and indeed the logo went from pulsing to constant (made me smile as I remembered the pointers on this forum). The dash simply stated '100% charged', but as I couldn't stay longer I had to unplug and drive away. So basically I think my car has never been fully balanced. I don't really understand the technical details, but I wondered if you guys know/ think how bad this practice is for my car? Would I gradually lose range?
Thank you in advance
 
Saima said:
Hi all, I've searched through some forums but not found an answer - the conversation here is the closest I think that relates to my question. I've had my ZS EV for about 3 months now and it drives great. I don't have a driveway so cannot charge/ balance at home. Instead I'm mainly charging at work on a granny charger on the days I go in. This means my charging is limited to the time I'm there and battery gets to about 60/70% charged before I unplug. Only once during this time has it got to 100% charge, and indeed the logo went from pulsing to constant (made me smile as I remembered the pointers on this forum). The dash simply stated '100% charged', but as I couldn't stay longer I had to unplug and drive away. So basically I think my car has never been fully balanced. I don't really understand the technical details, but I wondered if you guys know/ think how bad this practice is for my car? Would I gradually lose range?
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Hi and welcome.
As I am sure you are aware, MG recommend that you carry out a balance charge about once a month.
Are you a high or low usage case ?.
Because you are unable to charge from your drive, then if you have a public charger close by ( super market etc ) you could grab a part charge there, then complete the charge and balance from the Granny at work maybe ?.
Once or twice a month would be fine.
 
Lovemyev said:
Hi and welcome.
As I am sure you are aware, MG recommend that you carry out a balance charge about once a month.
Are you a high or low usage case ?.
Because you are unable to charge from your drive, then if you have a public charger close by ( super market etc ) you could grab a part charge there, then complete the charge and balance from the Granny at work maybe ?.
Once or twice a month would be fine.
Click to expand...
Yes, I read the advice in the manual too. I think I'm a low usage case, have accumulated about 300 miles on the car over past 3 months. Some of the comments here seem to suggest that balancing could take any time between 2 to 10+ hours, and since there's no indication on the dashboard, it's difficult to plan balancing at work. I will certainly try and get to work with as much charge as possible, but just worried about the potential damage if balancing not done regularly
 
Saima said:
Some of the comments here seem to suggest that balancing could take any time between 2 to 10+ hours
Click to expand...
Yeah - I would say you are a LOW usage user alright !.
The long balancing times have been reading about, are a direct result of some HV packs being out of balance, due to problematic BMS software being installed.
Their range has been badly affected as a result of this bad software install and therefore after the BMS is updated, the balancing cycle can tend to start off very long at first.
Firstly, you don't know if your pack is badly affected in this way.
Do you know what BMS software are you running on ?.
Are you seeing between 450 - 456 volts on your HV pack after a full charge & balance, in the default mode and with all electrical items turned off, oh and with both trips reset to zero first.
This has been covered extensively on the forum already.
If you are running on the OEM 456 volt software, then your balance time will be much quicker than somebody who is on the 450 volt BMS software anyway.
On the latest 448 - 450 volt BMS update, you are talking about 2 hours (ish) to balance, when the pack is back to normal levels.
Your usage is so low, your charging cycles are likely to be equally as low.
I would not be overly concerned to be totally honest.
It is understandable that you are keen to look after your HV pack for sure, but don't get over stressed about it.
I would try and grab a high state of charge, just once a month then plug in at work with the "Granny" and then let it conduct a balance cycle.
If you arrive with an almost full HV battery, then try and time the length of balance process.
Personally, I don't think you have a problem.
But if you want some bed time reading on charging / balancing / BMS etc.
I will drop you a link to a great site.
It will likely answer many of your questions and some you have not thought about yet :ROFLMAO:.
Enjoy !.

www.mgevownersclub.co.uk

Update information

The MG5 recall is for the earlier activation of brake lights using Kers 3. The other item is the confirmation of 35 kg limit on the roof bars which requires an extra page being glued into the...
www.mgevownersclub.co.uk
 
Lovemyev said:
Yeah - I would say you are a LOW usage user alright !.
The long balancing times have been reading about, are a direct result of some HV packs being out of balance, due to problematic BMS software being installed.
Their range has been badly affected as a result of this bad software install and therefore after the BMS is updated, the balancing cycle can tend to start off very long at first.
Firstly, you don't know if your pack is badly affected in this way.
Do you know what BMS software are you running on ?.
Are you seeing between 450 - 456 volts on your HV pack after a full charge & balance, in the default mode and with all electrical items turned off, oh and with both trips reset to zero first.
This has been covered extensively on the forum already.
If you are running on the OEM 456 volt software, then your balance time will be much quicker than somebody who is on the 450 volt BMS software anyway.
On the latest 448 - 450 volt BMS update, you are talking about 2 hours (ish) to balance, when the pack is back to normal levels.
Your usage is so low, your charging cycles are likely to be equally as low.
I would not be overly concerned to be totally honest.
It is understandable that you are keen to look after your HV pack for sure, but don't get over stressed about it.
I would try and grab a high state of charge, just once a month then plug in at work with the "Granny" and then let it conduct a balance cycle.
If you arrive with an almost full HV battery, then try and time the length of balance process.
Personally, I don't think you have a problem.
But if you want some bed time reading on charging / balancing / BMS etc.
I will drop you a link to a great site.
It will likely answer many of your questions and some you have not thought about yet :ROFLMAO:.
Enjoy !.

www.mgevownersclub.co.uk

Update information

The MG5 recall is for the earlier activation of brake lights using Kers 3. The other item is the confirmation of 35 kg limit on the roof bars which requires an extra page being glued into the...
www.mgevownersclub.co.uk
Click to expand...
Great stuff, thanks. I think I'm on the old BMS. I checked when it charged to 100% and it read 456v. But yes, plan is to try and get at least one balance at work. Will look through the link, thanks for that, and will try my best not to get paranoid about battery issues ;)
 
Saima said:
Great stuff, thanks. I think I'm on the old BMS. I checked when it charged to 100% and it read 456v. But yes, plan is to try and get at least one balance at work. Will look through the link, thanks for that, and will try my best not to get paranoid about battery issues ;)
Click to expand...
Yeah - You appear to be on the OEM factory software then.
No problem with that, if your range has not been affected, stick with it.
When you get chance, there is really good info in the link.
It explains a lot of questions that you may have.
No - Don't get paranoid about it !.
 
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