DIY V2L cable "waterproof"? Or

DB00nowthen

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MG4 Trophy LR
The water proof version of this at 5m length is £192

Pretty sure one could source the cable and the weather resistant socket. Do anyone know if the type-2 end that plugs into the car is the same as on a standard charging cable? If it were, I wonder if all one would have to source would be the "weatherproof" socket. But would not want to guess if it is wired the same.

I have a fully functional V2L adaptor that I got fro Ali-express. And wondering if I should have bought this:

Objective is to be able to power a kettle and a camping induction hob (they are about 800w). Anyone using/made something similar?


›››
 
I have a basic system, which was around £40 (Ali express) for cable / fayree head unit (similar quality to my ohme pro head!), £5 resistor in head, £13 for box (Parkside Lidl?), extension socket ? (?? £8 wilko - sadly no longer!), it lived for 6 months (not connected), but outside for 6 months last winter with the instruction booklet / inside water resistant / insect free.
 

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The water proof version of this at 5m length is £192

Pretty sure one could source the cable and the weather resistant socket. Do anyone know if the type-2 end that plugs into the car is the same as on a standard charging cable? If it were, I wonder if all one would have to source would be the "weatherproof" socket. But would not want to guess if it is wired the same.

I have a fully functional V2L adaptor that I got fro Ali-express. And wondering if I should have bought this:

Objective is to be able to power a kettle and a camping induction hob (they are about 800w). Anyone using/made something similar?


›››
 

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  • 3.5KW 13A Type 2 V2L with BS1363 AC Socket.jpg
    3.5KW 13A Type 2 V2L with BS1363 AC Socket.jpg
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Why risk electrocuting yourself, frying the battery or burning out your heated hair rollers with a dodgy socket bought on eBay and made by a man in his shed with a soldering iron?

No doubt the V2L cable from EV cables.com wont electrocute you but I wouldn’t touch a cheap adapter even with an earthed barge pole.
 
Why risk electrocuting yourself, frying the battery or burning out your heated hair rollers with a dodgy socket bought on eBay and made by a man in his shed with a soldering iron?

No doubt the V2L cable from EV cables.com wont electrocute you but I wouldn’t touch a cheap adapter even with an earthed barge pole.
Where can earthed barge pole? 🤡 And fair point.
 
Why risk electrocuting yourself, frying the battery or burning out your heated hair rollers with a dodgy socket bought on eBay and made by a man in his shed with a soldering iron?

No doubt the V2L cable from EV cables.com wont electrocute you but I wouldn’t touch a cheap adapter even with an earthed barge pole.
If you look at what's inside, though, there's nothing much to go wrong.

Here's a stripdown of a Hyundai one - will be very similar.

They do have a thermal fuse, but the only circumstance in which that would go is if you plugged in a ludicrously faulty plug under a high load.
 
While on the subject of V2L (and I've had no problems with the safety aspect of the "dodgy adapters - they are only basically connectors after all), I've noticed something odd about using it to power our washing machine.

I had charged my Trophy to 100% in anticipation of a long journey this morning. However, the trip got cancelled at the last moment and, as I wasn't planning to use the car for a couple of weeks, and being unable to drive currently (don't ask!), I decided to discharge the battery down to a level of around 80%. I connected up a 2kW oil filled heater and started the discharge with no problem.

After a few hours (down to 96% at this point), my wife decided to do some washing, so I unplugged the heater and plugged in the washing machine (0.5kW per cycle) instead. Just turning the machine on in order to program it, i.e. before any real power being drawn, caused the car to switch off discharge. I tried 3 more times and still switch discharge off each time.

Unplugged the washing machine and tried powering a 2kW kettle - no problem. Same success with a toaster and also with the oil filled radiator.

Anyone any ideas as to why my car seems to be allergic to my washing machine but not any other appliance??
 
While on the subject of V2L (and I've had no problems with the safety aspect of the "dodgy adapters - they are only basically connectors after all), I've noticed something odd about using it to power our washing machine.

I had charged my Trophy to 100% in anticipation of a long journey this morning. However, the trip got cancelled at the last moment and, as I wasn't planning to use the car for a couple of weeks, and being unable to drive currently (don't ask!), I decided to discharge the battery down to a level of around 80%. I connected up a 2kW oil filled heater and started the discharge with no problem.

After a few hours (down to 96% at this point), my wife decided to do some washing, so I unplugged the heater and plugged in the washing machine (0.5kW per cycle) instead. Just turning the machine on in order to program it, i.e. before any real power being drawn, caused the car to switch off discharge. I tried 3 more times and still switch discharge off each time.

Unplugged the washing machine and tried powering a 2kW kettle - no problem. Same success with a toaster and also with the oil filled radiator.

Anyone any ideas as to why my car seems to be allergic to my washing machine but not any other appliance??
Maybe check the integrity of the wiring in the washer plug and its cable. And or it may have some kind of issue that the car thinks is a faulty circuit? Don’t know, but I’d imagine something like that. Or it just doesn’t like domestic chores 🤡
 
IMG_0232.jpeg
I made mine from a normal 32A type 2 charge cable. The resistor in the Plug needs changing to a 2000 Ohm, and you choose what type of socket to fit. I went for a rubber 2 gang socket, so that I can slot it through my letterbox to run the washing machine etc


IMG_0230.jpeg
 
Mine is from around 10 months ago, so perhaps from lack of knowledge put in a 470 ohm (as at the time you couldn't get a V2L from MG). Never heard of a 2000 ohm - but just read that the lower the resistance the 'more power' it will take ! - not that I've tried but never had a trip out todate, and that with a 20 yr old washer dryer attached, once or twice over the year. I have found that the MG4 aircon is incremental (so always switch it off) - but I have seen (with aircon on) 5.1Kw on the central display, albeit for 10 mins before I realised what was going on, as knew that I couldn't be pulling more than 13 amps as the plug fuse would have gone.
 
After a few hours (down to 96% at this point), my wife decided to do some washing, so I unplugged the heater and plugged in the washing machine (0.5kW per cycle) instead. Just turning the machine on in order to program it, i.e. before any real power being drawn, caused the car to switch off discharge. I tried 3 more times and still switch discharge off each time.

Unplugged the washing machine and tried powering a 2kW kettle - no problem. Same success with a toaster and also with the oil filled radiator.
Maybe the electric motor in the washing machine draws too much current the moment you switch it on? The stationary motor draws much higher inrush currents than motors that are already running.

Another explanation would be that the voltage and current of the motor are not in phase (due to the inductive nature of the motor). Therefore, it may be consuming more apparent power than real power.

My guess is inrush currents. Some washing machines have a smoother start-up of the motor that does not consume as much power in the initial phase.
 
Maybe the electric motor in the washing machine draws too much current the moment you switch it on? The stationary motor draws much higher inrush currents than motors that are already running.

Another explanation would be that the voltage and current of the motor are not in phase (due to the inductive nature of the motor). Therefore, it may be consuming more apparent power than real power.

My guess is inrush currents. Some washing machines have a smoother start-up of the motor that does not consume as much power in the initial phase.
I'd totally agree with that if it weren't for the fact that the washing machine doesn't start up immediately.

First of all (when plugged into the mains) the display on it lights up in order to then program it, so the only current being drawn should only be measured in mA. When attached to the car, the display never shows any sign of coming to life. In fact, the indicator light on the extension cable extinguishes the instant I turn the washing machine programming dial.

Secondly, the first draw of any real current would come after the programming has been accepted and the "start" button pressed. That's when the water inlet valve opens to fill the machine. That's why I don't think it's to do with inrush current.

It's a real puzzler that's for sure!
 
Is the washing machine connected to the water supply by a metal pipe? Or earthed to the water supply in any other way? Or even just having some part of the chassis grounded in some way?

If it is then the differing earth potentials (the car doesn't have an earth as such, so the earth pin will float relative to real earth) may be causing the V2L to trip.
 
While on the subject of V2L (and I've had no problems with the safety aspect of the "dodgy adapters - they are only basically connectors after all), I've noticed something odd about using it to power our washing machine.

I had charged my Trophy to 100% in anticipation of a long journey this morning. However, the trip got cancelled at the last moment and, as I wasn't planning to use the car for a couple of weeks, and being unable to drive currently (don't ask!), I decided to discharge the battery down to a level of around 80%. I connected up a 2kW oil filled heater and started the discharge with no problem.

After a few hours (down to 96% at this point), my wife decided to do some washing, so I unplugged the heater and plugged in the washing machine (0.5kW per cycle) instead. Just turning the machine on in order to program it, i.e. before any real power being drawn, caused the car to switch off discharge. I tried 3 more times and still switch discharge off each time.

Unplugged the washing machine and tried powering a 2kW kettle - no problem. Same success with a toaster and also with the oil filled radiator.

Anyone any ideas as to why my car seems to be allergic to my washing machine but not any other appliance??
Most probably the washing m/c is tripping the car's RCD due to earth leakage. You can easily confirm this by temporarily removing the earth connection in the machine's 13A plug or the V2L socket. If the washing m/c then works ok you'll know where the fault lies.
 
Mine is from around 10 months ago, so perhaps from lack of knowledge put in a 470 ohm (as at the time you couldn't get a V2L from MG). Never heard of a 2000 ohm - but just read that the lower the resistance the 'more power' it will take ! - not that I've tried but never had a trip out todate, and that with a 20 yr old washer dryer attached, once or twice over the year. I have found that the MG4 aircon is incremental (so always switch it off) - but I have seen (with aircon on) 5.1Kw on the central display, albeit for 10 mins before I realised what was going on, as knew that I couldn't be pulling more than 13 amps as the plug fuse would have gone.

Mine is the same, made when you couldn’t get an MG cable, and 470 Ohm. I quoted the 2000 Ohm as that is the MG specification.

I use the V2L for lawn mowing as well as the washing machine and tumble dryer (not at the same time!) and have had no problems. Being able to draw a bit of extra power may be useful, hence I haven’t changed the resistor to a 2000 Ohm
 
View attachment 19751I made mine from a normal 32A type 2 charge cable. The resistor in the Plug needs changing to a 2000 Ohm, and you choose what type of socket to fit. I went for a rubber 2 gang socket, so that I can slot it through my letterbox to run the washing machine etc


View attachment 19750
How do you wire this to the 3 pin sockets, which only have brown blue and yellow wires. The Type 2 seems to have more than 3 colours of wires as per photo. Thanks
 

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