Does anyone offer something like a V2L socket inside the vehicle?

mrg9999

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MG ZS EV
I know it's only day 2 of my ownership

It seems to me that a 13A (BS 1363) covered/ switched socket inside the vehicle might be nice to avoid having to have a V2L cable dangling out the front.

Does anyone provide such?
 
A few other manufacturers offer the provision for a three pin socket outlet inside the car.
Which is handy for charging a lap top etc.
I think the small Honda EV has this facility?.
MG have decided to discharge via the charging port, which makes sense as it can carry 2 kw’s +.
Some owners have even managed to exceed this discharge figure with a modification to the V2L adaptor.
Pulling north of 2 kw’s is via a three pin plug will create some heat at the plug of course.
Could one be added inside of the car, is what you are asking I think ?.
I guess it’s possible, but a small inverter powered from the 12 socket would do this…… maybe ??.
 
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A few other manufacturers offer the provision for a three pin socket outlet inside the car.
Which is handy for charging a lap top etc.
I think the small Honda EV has this facility?.
MG have decided to discharge via the charging port, which makes sense as it can carry 2 kw’s +.
Some owners have even managed to exceed this discharge figure with a modification to the V2L adaptor.
Pulling north of 2 kw’s is not possible via a three pin plug of course.
Could one be added inside of the car, is what you are asking I think ?.
I guess it’s possible, but a small inverter powered from the 12 socket would do this…… maybe ??.
Pulling more than 2kw is entirely possible. Plenty of devices such as kettles do this.
 
Pulling more than 2kw is entirely possible. Plenty of devices such as kettles do this.
This very true of course, however if you offer a three pin socket outlet, then some one may get the idea that it is fair game for anything fixed with a three pin plug.
Small electrical appliances like a lap top charger etc is not a problem, even a small micro wave / kettle.
Both of these items are used very briefly of course.
However, I would be a little concerned if some was to use this facility to power a Granny lead pulling a constant 10 Amp load to another EV over a longer time frame.
It maybe okay, but personally I would not like to push it that hard myself.
 
This very true of course, however if you offer a three pin socket outlet, then some one may get the idea that it is fair game for anything fixed with a three pin plug.
Small electrical appliances like a lap top charger etc is not a problem, even a small micro wave / kettle.
Both of these items are used very briefly of course.
However, I would be a little concerned if some was to use this facility to power a Granny lead pulling a constant 10 Amp load to another EV over a longer time frame.
It maybe okay, but personally I would not like to push it that hard myself.
I agree, I was just correcting your original statement that pulling anything more than 2kw is not possible on a 3 pin.
 
I agree, I was just correcting your original statement that pulling anything more than 2kw is not possible on a 3 pin.
I have just popped over to the Honda e forum and screen grabbed the text below from the manual.
It appears that Honda have given out advice on the max load that can be pulled via the internal three pin socket outlet.
I am sure other manufacturers will decide there own safety limits.
It is fairly low on the Honda and not as good as you might think, only 1500 watts max.
This was my original concern, when you offer up a three pin socket, people think they can plug anything into it !.
Recommended V2L discharge on the MG is a max of 2.2 Kw’s if I remember correctly.
It is discharging through a type 2 gun and then into a suitably sized cable and outlet.
Some members have made the decision to upgraded their discharge equipment, to carry / supply more than 2.2 Kw’s and proved that it works successfully.
But that is for the individual to make that call.


IMG_0243.jpeg
 
I have just popped over to the Honda e forum and screen grabbed the text below from the manual.
It appears that Honda have given out advice on the max load that can be pulled via the internal three pin socket outlet.
I am sure other manufacturers will decide there own safety limits.
It is fairly low on the Honda and not as good as you might think, only 1500 watts max.
This was my original concern, when you offer up a three pin socket, people think they can plug anything into it !.
Recommended V2L discharge on the MG is a max of 2.2 Kw’s if I remember correctly.
It is discharging through a type 2 gun and then into a suitably sized cable and outlet.
Some members have made the decision to upgraded their discharge equipment, to carry / supply more than 2.2 Kw’s and proved that it works successfully.
But that is for the individual to make that call.
The limitation in the context of v2l is on the resistor inside the adaptor and not the 3 pin plug, until you reach the ~3kW @Grriff mentioned.
 
I understand, I was just making the point that the max output through the three pin adapter in the Honda e is designed / limited to draw 1500 Watts or ideally less ( see above ).
It states that electric fridges etc should not be powered by this method.
Not close to discharging via the V2L gun on the ZS EV face lift then, which has to be a better alternative than the three pin outlet like offered in the Honda e survey ??.
 
I know it's only day 2 of my ownership

It seems to me that a 13A (BS 1363) covered/ switched socket inside the vehicle might be nice to avoid having to have a V2L cable dangling out the front.

Does anyone provide such?
When I had my Landrover I used a small inverter connected to the 12V round (cigarette lighter) socket. the inverter came with such a plug and also had a 13amp mains socket built in. Ideal for my Son and daughter to run laptops etc. obviously not a kettle though. this was purchased from Maplins who no longer exist but there is a mryad of others plus now there are some great battery packs that do the same thing and are portable and will power a kettle keep it in the boot and run a lead into the car.
 
A 3 pin plug can be fused at a maximum of 13A. Thus the watts available are 13 X 240 = 3,120 or about 3kW.
That’s if it’s a purely resistive load, which in most cases it won’t be, but contain inductive of capacitive elements, so the phase angle between the voltage and current needs to be taken into account , Cos 0
 
A 3 pin plug can be fused at a maximum of 13A. Thus the watts available are 13 X 240 = 3,120 or about 3kW.
I can physically put a much larger fuse (4BA bolt?) in a 13A plugtop (BS 1363). 100yrs ago as an apprentice we tested MK products, and they happily worked at 50A. 80A things got a bit warm and 200A the socket melted first.
I bet BigClive or someone has performed this on Youtube
 
When I had my Landrover I used a small inverter connected to the 12V round (cigarette lighter) socket. the inverter came with such a plug and also had a 13amp mains socket built in. Ideal for my Son and daughter to run laptops etc. obviously not a kettle though. this was purchased from Maplins who no longer exist but there is a mryad of others plus now there are some great battery packs that do the same thing and are portable and will power a kettle keep it in the boot and run a lead into the car.
I have a small portable honda 3KW generator that will boil a kettle to 2.4kW.
My landrover (now in Landy heaven) had a power takeoff for winch and you could run a generator / Dynamotor instead.
 
I can physically put a much larger fuse (4BA bolt?) in a 13A plugtop (BS 1363). 100yrs ago as an apprentice we tested MK products, and they happily worked at 50A. 80A things got a bit warm and 200A the socket melted first.
I bet BigClive or someone has performed this on Youtube
Heres a youtube:



An amazing outcome.
 
Hmm
interesting, but not so scientific. I'd have like to have seen a complete timelapse
Considering the often quoted advice on this and other forums about 13amp plugs not being man enough to handle more than 10amps continuous, I think it was an excellent demonstration which shows clearly 13 amps is easily achievable with good quality items.
 
I do have some genuine concerns that while Granny chargers have been classed as safe for use in a standard three pin socket outlet.
It does so, making the assumption that any outlet in any home is totally fit for this purpose.
There are just too many variables with this regard.
Newer and older renovated properties that have been wired to meet the latest regs and requirements, and testing accordingly are going to be absolutely fine.
But it’s the properties that fall into the middle section, can be the grey area here.
Properties that have had some add on electrical work done or even some DIY projects carried out over the years gone by.
Homes that have worked fine for years and years and then develop an issue quickly when owners starting using the Granny lead to charge their EV are left scratching their heads ?.
e.g. - The chosen socket outlet was added years ago, with a poor quality socket outlet, it was wired as a spur, where a under rated junction box was used, no RCD protection in the CU either and CPC ( earth ) arrangement have not been upgraded.
A similar situation occurred with a member of the forum, when a junction box that had supplied an outside socket outlet ( installed years ago ) suddenly over heated and almost caught fire under his wooden car port, when the owner starting using a Granny to charge his new EV.
There are just too many variables in this grey area section in my mind.
The manufactures include the wording “When plugged into safe / suitably rated socket outlet is used” when giving out advice on the use of the Granny charger.
When a wall box is installed, it comes with the knowledge, that this work will be carried out by a certified EV installer.
Back ground checks will be made first at the property, insuring the necessary supply / home electrics are in a safe condition, prior to the install.
A three pin plug socket owlet is readerly available in almost anywhere in the U.K.
But the suitability for use on a Granny lead in every single location, has to questionable at least.
This can be in part to the unknown condition / age of the wiring / circuits / RCD protection / earthing arrangement etc.
The load is not my main concern here, it’s the length of time spent delivering that higher load on what could NOT be the best circuit, is the real issue for me.
It’s pretty clear and understandable, that somebody who has just purchased an EV would assume that becomes it comes equipped with a standard three pin plug, that it is fair game to think, it can be safe to be used in every single socket that is instantly available.
 
I do have some genuine concerns that while Granny chargers have been classed as safe for use in a standard three pin socket outlet.
It does so, making the assumption that any outlet in any home is totally fit for this purpose.
There are just too many variables with this regard.
Newer and older renovated properties that have been wired to meet the latest regs and requirements, and testing accordingly are going to be absolutely fine.
Agreed but it is not just EV Granny chargers that can load up a socket like this. Many ovens and tumble dryers with 3 kW rating also come with 13 amp plugs attached.

But it’s the properties that fall into the middle section, can be the grey area here.
Properties that have had some add on electrical work done or even some DIY projects carried out over the years gone by.
Homes that have worked fine for years and years and then develop an issue quickly when owners starting using the Granny lead to charge their EV are left scratching their heads ?.
e.g. - The chosen socket outlet was added years ago, with a poor quality socket outlet, it was wired as a spur, where a under rated junction box was used, no RCD protection in the CU either and CPC ( earth ) arrangement have not been upgraded.
Many properties have TN-C-S earthing arrangements and this is potential dangerous to use for EV charging unless the wallbox or granny charger has PEN fault protection. Some installers add an earth rod but this is potentially hazardous too and can cause a fire.

A similar situation occurred with a member of the forum, when a junction box that had supplied an outside socket outlet ( installed years ago ) suddenly over heated and almost caught fire under his wooden car port, when the owner starting using a Granny to charge his new EV.
I can believe that with some of the very poor quality granny chargers around. The two that I've Mitsubishi and BMW, both have temperature sensors inside the plug to guard against this very situation. I guess you get what you pay for.

There are just too many variables in this grey area section in my mind.
The manufactures include the wording “When plugged into safe / suitably rated socket outlet is used” when giving out advice on the use of the Granny charger.
Maybe there needs to be a standard that makes the granny chargers have a temperature sensor in the plug?

When a wall box is installed, it comes with the knowledge, that this work will be carried out by a certified EV installer.
I have to disagree with you there. The first wallbox I designed and made myself, the second one I installed myself and I am not a certified EV installer and there is no requirement to be one.

Back ground checks will be made first at the property, insuring the necessary supply / home electrics are in a safe condition, prior to the install.
I think 'should' rather than 'will' is needed in this sentence.

A three pin plug socket owlet is readerly available in almost anywhere in the U.K.
But the suitability for use on a Granny lead in every single location, has to questionable at least.
The vast majority are fine and the better quality units have the temperature sensor which would make them safer, they simply reduce charge rate if heat is detected.

This can be in part to the unknown condition / age of the wiring / circuits / RCD protection / earthing arrangement etc.
And this applies to all wiring installations and appliances. My mums house I discovered that the ring main in the kitchen did not have an earth at all. I discovered this when installing a new washing machine and I got a tingle from the machine. The house was built in 2005 and my parents moved in when it was a year old, it had all the certifications you should but clearly proper testing had not been done.

The load is not my main concern here, it’s the length of time spent delivering that higher load on what could NOT be the best circuit, is the real issue for me.
It’s pretty clear and understandable, that somebody who has just purchased an EV would assume that becomes it comes equipped with a standard three pin plug, that it is fair game to think, it can be safe to be used in every single socket that is instantly available.
And in reality it most likely will be OK, there are very few that have issues except the coiled extension lead etc. When I had my caravan on the drive, the electric hookup was plugged into the outdoor socket with a 13 amp plug and the central heating and water heating presented a 3kW load for a substantial time, lots of caravanners do this too.
 
I have to disagree with you there. The first wallbox I designed and made myself, the second one I installed myself and I am not a certified EV installer and there is no requirement to be one.
With respect John your level of knowledge and experience is way above the level of the "Average Joe" who generally does NOT have the ability, or skill sets available to hand, to carry out this level of build and install that you have achieved.
Therefore they need to enlist the help of a suitability qualified EV installer / electrician.
It's important from a personal safety stand point, that this should not be diluted in it's real importance of personal individual safety here.
Purely from a legal mitigation point alone.
 
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