Installing a dashcam (with naked pics...)

[Rei]

Fingers crossed for you. I got some that looked like that off eBay, but when they arrived they were different. The official Viofo ones look like these too.

 

[Joningy]

Fingers crossed for you. I got some that looked like that off eBay, but when they arrived they were different. The official Viofo ones look like these too.

Thanks @Rei , well it's the old saying "we'll soon see" fortunately there's no rush, so I might be back to your post looking for the correct ones.
There's plenty of time to get it right, I'm considering connecting the permanent live from the fuse box is possibly stage 2 after fitting the front and rear cameras neatly, depending on how easy it is, it can always be tested using a short USB.

 

[Rei]

I made some progress. The Amazon fuse taps fit well. Almost too easily, hopefully they don't fall out.

The problem now is figuring out which ones are switched, because the car seems to turn everything on as soon as you open the door.

I might have to try temporarily connecting a wire and looking at the multimeter through the window with the door shut. Or I suppose I could just try it with the camera.

Then I need to get the back one installed

 

[5teep]

Nothing is ever 'easy' is it

 

[Rei]

I managed to get my multimeter on both taps and with the door shut and locked they both stayed at 12V.

I think I've got F5 and F6.

Is there some condition when the accessory power goes off? Or do I just need a different fuse?

 

[Joningy]

I would say F6, comm module needs to be awake all the time

 

[Rei]

Yeah, that was my plan, F6 for the always on, but the ones either side of it should be switched I think.

 

[Joningy]

Picked up the new S5 today (16th Sep) and as soon as I had it home, I had a go at revealing the driver’s side fuse box and running the dash cam power cable to the fuse box, it was reasonably easy to hide the cable behind the roof lining at the windscreen junction, just tucking it under the roof lining, but may pop out later and require something to hold it in, but that's for later.

As @Rei mentions, it is difficult to access the fuse box, I did eventually get reasonable access to it. But removing the rubber door seal is much more difficult to remove than my MG4 was, this makes removing the end panel of the main dash and the plastic door pillar hard plastic cover easy to pull away sufficiently to run the cable behind, pulling out of the retaining clips, but not needing to fully remove it, I used a long cable tie taped to the feed cables to pull the cables through behind this hard plastic cover.
Getting everything back together was also a challenge, tomorrow I'll cut and join the very long hardwire cable, I'm planning on connecting to F6, this as @mystreet mentioned is almost certainly permanent live.
But I don’t think you need to go to all that trouble testing for a permanent live @Rei you can sit in the car and do it by switching the car to off within the infotainment screen.

By the way @Rei, I too had real problems with the fuse taps, I'll take a look at the ones you found to be correct on Amazon. Hopefully more follow up and perhaps som photos soon.
Ive yet to determing a route to the rear camera, on the MG4 I took the high route, but the curtain air bags are close by, so may take the lower route.

 

[Rei]

Does sitting in the car work? I tried it and used the "shutdown" option on the car screen, but the main screen didn't turn off and neither did the ceiling light.

 

[Joningy]

Does sitting in the car work? I tried it and used the "shutdown" option on the car screen, but the main screen didn't turn off and neither did the ceiling light.

I'm pretty sure it should work, but I agree, the main screen remains lit up!
my piggyback fuse taps look identical to the ones you bought on Amazon, I dont understand why they wont go in, need a closer look tomorrow, before I get 4 more when we only need ONE!!

 

[Rei]

I'm pretty sure it should work, but I agree, the main screen remains lit up!
my piggyback fuse taps look identical to the ones you bought on Amazon, I dont understand why they wont go in, need a closer look tomorrow, before I get 4 more when we only need ONE!!

So you aren't going to do parking mode?

 

[jamakr4]

Anyone has tried one of those dash cams?

AliExpress

 

[Joningy]

So you aren't going to do parking mode?

Yes I'm definitely going to use the parking mode @Rei, now I've esstablished the correct fuse and the correct fuse box.

Yes I'm definitely going to use the parking mode @Rei, now I've esstablished the correct fuse and the correct fuse box.

Just had another look at the piggyback fuses I have and tried to compare with yours, can't see any difference, but the fuses have a taper which is probably going to make it easier to fit, but I've tried fitting one tap into the other,took a heck of a lot pushing in, I'm sure I will get it done tomorrow, I've taken a few photos so you can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Had trouble uploading pics, hopefully ok now.

Anyone has tried one of those dash cams?

AliExpress

I've had a bad experience with Ali Express.
Just had a quick look at it, there are several models to choose from, not sure what all the surrounding plastic is for, looks like a replacement cover for the radar sensors!
I certainly woulld NOT look at cheap dash cams. other than the better quality reviewed by experts, but by all means try it, but having read lots of reviews, the cheaper cams, definitely wont give you the all important definition or clarity required in the event of an accident, especially at nightime. Many claim to be 4k, but are not.

 

[Rei]

Had trouble uploading pics, hopefully ok now.

Your ones have the little extra bits at the side, they won't fit. If you look at the ones I have they are flat at the edges.

I'm not sure I understand the logic with your stacking them, or is that just a test fitting?

I'm impressed you got the front off, that must make life a lot easier.

 

[5teep]

I've had a bad experience with Ali Express.
Just had a quick look at it, there are several models to choose from, not sure what all the surrounding plastic is for, looks like a replacement cover for the radar sensors!
I certainly woulld NOT look at cheap dash cams. other than the better quality reviewed by experts, but by all means try it, but having read lots of reviews, the cheaper cams, definitely wont give you the all important definition or clarity required in the event of an accident, especially at nightime. Many claim to be 4k, but are not.

I use Aliexpress but my rule is as with any gamble, don't bet what you can't afford to lose. I keep my purchases to the cheaper end and on the odd occasion where it went south I found aliexpress to be pretty good at sorting it. They are like eBay in that they are just a hub? for sellers but they do keep a tight reign on the scammers.
Off course the major problem when you get a faulty item is sending it back to China, which is why I don't buy expensive items.

 

[Joningy]

Your ones have the little extra bits at the side, they won't fit. If you look at the ones I have they are flat at the edges.

I'm not sure I understand the logic with your stacking them, or is that just a test fitting?

I'm impressed you got the front off, that must make life a lot easier.

Just testing it, I'll have a closer look tomorrow (when the rain stops) between us we'll have more fuses than Halfords

Do you mean like a shoulder at the bottom, or do you mean something else?

 

[Rei]

These bits. If you look at the fuses they don't have them.

 

[micktreviss]

I tried to install today. Got the power cable behind the trim okay, but the fuse box is a bit of a nightmare. The panel it's behind is hard to remove, and then it's recessed and very hard to get at. I can only reach the nearest fuses.

View attachment 39250

I can only reach F2-F10. The diagram is turned on its side, those are actually vertical and closest to the panel you remove.

View attachment 39251
View attachment 39253

I tried to get a multimeter on... I think F10. Maybe F1. No voltage.

Anyone know which ones are best to use for permanent power and for ACC switched power? Maybe F5 for the switched.

I think F20 is the OBD port, but it's very hard to get to.

I purchased an OBD cable from Amazon for about £8 and it works fine.
I have mine (Nextbase 322) on all the time and so far, 3 weeks, no battery issues.
Very easy to plug in as the socket is by your left knee and you can switch it to only power up when you sit in the seat if you want.
Really easy to route to the headliner.

 

[Rei]

I purchased an OBD cable from Amazon for about £8 and it works fine.
I have mine (Nextbase 322) on all the time and so far, 3 weeks, no battery issues.
Very easy to plug in as the socket is by your left knee and you can switch it to only power up when you sit in the seat if you want.
Really easy to route to the headliner.

That's interesting. Maybe I'll just have it on all the time and set to low bit rate or motion detection when parked. Even if the 12V battery is okay the SD card as a limited lifespan.

 

[Joningy]

Completed the arduous task today, routing the cables to the rear camera, either I was lucky with my MG4, or very unlucky with the new MGS5, I'm not sure, but it was not an easy job, but perseverance paid off, all back together, front and back cameras working fine and hard wired to the fuse box under the steering wheel, managed to find an unused permanent live fuse socket for the parking mode also found a switched spare unused for the front and rear cameras. I've circled the piggy back fuses which I managed to modify very easily to fit perfectly.
I'm very pleased with the outcome. The only visible cable is on the rear window as attached pic.
There's plenty of room under the roof lining, that part was easy, I had a lot of attempts to get the cable above the rear C Pillar, as previously I used silicone grease to help pass the cable through the flexible boot to body gaitor, I'd warn against using ordinary oil or washing up liquid as it may potentially cause corrosion
to the cabling, I guess vaseline would be OK.