Mg zs ev audio

Hello

Yes I have a custom set on the equaliser which I'm fairly happy with, although I tweak it every now and then. I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them here for you.

Cheers

Allen.
 
Hi, Thank you for the quick reply and that would be good to see what yours is set to. I know its not the same equipment but it might help as a starting point to tweak from.

So far I've replaced the front door speakers, tweeters and fitted a Kenwood active sub underneath the seat. I wasn't sure whether to replace the rears yet or if it was worth doing.

Gosh I thought I had given all this up about 20 years ago 🙄

Thank again
 
Hi, Thank you for the quick reply and that would be good to see what yours is set to. I know its not the same equipment but it might help as a starting point to tweak from.

So far I've replaced the front door speakers, tweeters and fitted a Kenwood active sub underneath the seat. I wasn't sure whether to replace the rears yet or if it was worth doing.

Gosh I thought I had given all this up about 20 years ago 🙄

Thank again
How easy was it to add the sub, where did you attach it to and how did you remove the radio.
Sorry for all the questions I need more bass.
Thanks
 
How easy was it to add the sub, where did you attach it to and how did you remove the radio.
Sorry for all the questions I need more bass.
Thanks
Hi,

No problem at all. It wasnt too hard at all but as long as you're ok at taking things apart you should be fine.
For the headunit removal I followed this youtube guide:

The hardest part was removing the radio bezel surround as this wouldn't budge and was scared of snapping this but it does take a bit of brute force to a certain degree. Once off then just 4 screws to removal the radio. I taped into the front left/right speakers wires to connect the Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub (under drivers seat) and took the power and switch remote from the fuse box on the passenger side.

I was going to remove the seat to make wiring easily but no need really. The loom from the sub can tuck and run down the side of the centre console to the front then up at the back of the dash behind the radio then through to the passenger side fuse box.

Quite impressed with this sub for the money as didn't want to spend a lot just for some fill in bass which is seems to do well. My days of twin 15" parcel shelf subs, mdf boxes and multiple amps are long gone but depends what you're into, as this can run away once you start.

I would say the Focal ibus range with the right iso adapters is neater solution and easily to connect without cutting wires or soldering.

I would certainly fit the active sub first and see what you think. I feel this will give you the biggest noticeable difference. As said I've replaced the front speakers with 6.5" with adapters from the oem fit which were just over 5" and replaced the tweeters. I cant seem to balance right on these and for the effort I would just start by adding the sub. Reading Allen78 setup, it does sound great though using more premium speakers and been a complete setup all round front/rear/sub.

I will stop waffling now :)

Sorry in advance, Im not the best at describing "how to" nor is my grammar.

Hope this helps anyway and I have a few strip down photos if required.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

No problem at all. It wasnt too hard at all but as long as you're ok at taking things apart you should be fine.
For the headunit removal I followed this youtube guide:

The hardest part was removing the radio bezel surround as this wouldn't budge and was scared of snapping this but it does take a bit of brute force to a certain degree. Once off then just 4 screws to removal the radio. I taped into the front left/right speakers wires to connect the Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub (under drivers seat) and took the power and switch remote from the fuse box on the passenger side.

I was going to remove the seat to make wiring easily but no need really. The loom from the sub can tuck and run down the side of the centre console to the front then up at the back of the dash behind the radio then through to the passenger side fuse box.

Quite impressed with this sub for the money as didn't want to spend a lot just for some fill in bass which is seems to do well. My days of twin 15" parcel shelf subs, mdf boxes and multiple amps are long gone but depends what you're into, as this can run away once you start.

I would say the Focal ibus range with the right iso adapters is neater solution and easily to connect without cutting wires or soldering.

I would certainly fit the active sub first and see what you think. I feel this will give you the biggest noticeable difference. As said I've replaced the front speakers with 6.5" with adapters from the oem fit which were just over 5" and replaced the tweeters. I cant seem to balance right on these and for the effort I would just start by adding the sub. Reading Allen78 setup, it does sound great though using more premium speakers and been a complete setup all round front/rear/sub.

I will stop waffling now :)

Sorry in advance, Im not the best at describing "how to" nor is my grammar.

Hope this helps anyway and I have a few strip down photos if required.

Hey, that's great thanks for your help, I will get the same sub, I feel the speakers are fine for my poor hearing just misses a bit of bass and as you say didn't want the xr3i parcel shelf look.
I will give it a go , appreciated .
 
No problem at all and hope the Kenwood does the trick for you.

Here are some photos of the bezel and clips which might come in useful on removal.

The front speaker colours are

Right side: yellow with thin black line (positive) and green with a thin red-brown line. (Neg)

Left side: white with a thin black line (positive) and green with a thin red-brown line (neg)


20201227_110711_HDR.jpg20201227_110705_HDR.jpg20201227_110656_HDR.jpg20201227_110702_HDR.jpg
 
I know what you mean by not having to mess about with the in car stereos any more. My last 2 cars had premium sound systems as standard, then I hear this standard system in the mg. In my opinion it's very poor and as I love my music I had to upgrade it.
I've attached pictures to my current set up for you hope this helps a little bit.
 

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I'm pretty sure it's speed dependant volume, so as you speed up the volume automatically increases to compensate for extra road/wind noise.
I've always turned these features off.
 
I know what you mean by not having to mess about with the in car stereos any more. My last 2 cars had premium sound systems as standard, then I hear this standard system in the mg. In my opinion it's very poor and as I love my music I had to upgrade it.
I've attached pictures to my current set up for you hope this helps a little bit.
Thank you for the photos and yes will help. The sub settings really are useful. Same here had great audio in my last few cars. I do love my MG and this upgrade should hopefully complete what is missing. Acoustically this type of car and with a glass roof is never going to be a great but it's certainly much better thank stock, especially when playing music from Bluetooth but Dab quality still seems weak.

I will probably end up changing the rear speakers, do you know what focal speaker were used on yours?

Anyway still some work to do and will report back.

Thanks again!
 
I have to say and we all have different views that I don’t find the audio quality that bad at all compared to others that I have heard like the BMW 1 series as my most recent experience and I at one point; when I was younger was really critical about audio quality..mind you I did spend sometime setting my EQ up to how I like it...
 
I have to say and we all have different views that I don’t find the audio quality that bad at all compared to others that I have heard like the BMW 1 series as my most recent experience and I at one point; when I was younger was really critical about audio quality..mind you I did spend sometime setting my EQ up to how I like it...
Agreed is not that bad compared to some cars. At least the head unit does have quite a few options to adjust which I was surprised to see.

I personally just need a bit more rumble and depth from the bass which the seat sub has helped. I just couldn't stop myself from messing which I vowed I wouldn't do again but each to their own hey 😁.
 
No problem at all and hope the Kenwood does the trick for you.

Here are some photos of the bezel and clips which might come in useful on removal.

The front speaker colours are

Right side: yellow with thin black line (positive) and green with a thin red-brown line. (Neg)

Left side: white with a thin black line (positive) and green with a thin red-brown line (neg)


View attachment 997View attachment 998View attachment 1000View attachment 1001
That's great, thanks, will have a go !
 
That's great, thanks, will have a go !
FYI here are my audio settings for the Kenwood sub and for the headunit. After a good week of playing with numerous settings this is what I find best for a range of sources and very please with the upgrade results for under £180

Parts used:
Kenwood KSC-SW11 Active sub £110

Mini Fuse spurs for sub power wiring £7

Renegade 6.5" RX6.2C component speakers for fronts door and pillar tweeters £45

6.5" speaker door adapters pair £12.99

This might help when you've fitted yours or at least starting point. As you can see from the photos the 3d surround is off, virtual sub off, push the speakers forward (rears off) and eq aimed more toward mids and treble for the front components. This let's the sub do what it should do and reduce bass from the doors for better midrange and rear speakers off/low. This now sounds more natural, crisp at low to high volume without distortion, well to me it does. 😁
 

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FYI here are my audio settings for the Kenwood sub and for the headunit. After a good week of playing with numerous settings this is what I find best for a range of sources and very please with the upgrade results for under £180

Parts used:
Kenwood KSC-SW11 Active sub £110

Mini Fuse spurs for sub power wiring £7

Renegade 6.5" RX6.2C component speakers for fronts door and pillar tweeters £45

6.5" speaker door adapters pair £12.99

This might help when you've fitted yours or at least starting point. As you can see from the photos the 3d surround is off, virtual sub off, push the speakers forward (rears off) and eq aimed more toward mids and treble for the front components. This let's the sub do what it should do and reduce bass from the doors for better midrange and rear speakers off/low. This now sounds more natural, crisp at low to high volume without distortion, well to me it does. 😁
Thanks Neil, that's very helpful, I await my delivery of the sub, not yet gone full on speaker change but may consider at a later date. 😀
 
Thanks Neil, that's very helpful, I await my delivery of the sub, not yet gone full on speaker change but may consider at a later date. 😀
I think the sub should be enough but those settings help to reduce the bass from the doors. Look forward to hearing about yours when done 👍
 
My biggest problem with radio / music, is I'm hard of hearing and my wife isn't .....you can guess the rest..
It's the other way round for us, our lass likes the music up high and I like it low or off. The quietness of the car alone is so relaxing.
 
Hey, just bought this car for my wife. Going to upgrade the speakers, can you please help me confirm it’s 6.5 in the front, what size are the rear speakers ?
 
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