stevedee
Standard Member
Yes please, I'll join you....I think I'm probably better off starting another thread, this is a complex subject...
Yes please, I'll join you....I think I'm probably better off starting another thread, this is a complex subject...
See here - Recovering a Lead Acid battery after it has been deeply dischargedYes please, I'll join you.
Can you give me the dimension of the battery please, from there I expect I can guide you to a suitable alternative that is fast charging so will charge in the short blips of charge current/voltage it receives ....I've searched long and hard to try to find a decent quality replacement 12 volt auxiliary battery for my troubled MGS5 with zero success.
The 35Ah battery as supplied is puny at best and may benefit from doubling the capacity to 60 or 70Ah, there doesn't appear to be a like for like (35Ah) swap in a reliable brand made yet.
But there's plenty of of slightly taller and longer, with similar width available which may be persuaded to fit.
Ideally I'd prefer to up the capacity, but I don't really want to mess with the warranty conditions by making new and possibly irreversible battery mounting kit.
Have any of our fellow DIY, happy to "have a go" guru's thought along similar lines?
Very interesting Terry, I'd be interested to know more!A lead acid battery needs to remain at charging voltage, above 13.6 V min, to actually recharge. 13.6 V will maintain the charge at 100% if it is already at 100%, it will bring a battery up to about 50% SOC if it stays at that voltage for 24 hrs or more, but that is no enough voltage to over come the inherent internal resistance of any type of lead acid battery.
Now, if the battery was not saturation charged when built, it will already begin sulphating ..... within 12 hrs actually .....
If the terminal voltage is held at 14v for 12 hrs or more, you can get closer to fully charged, as long as the plates are not sulphated. Once the sulphation starts on lead acid plates, no chemical reaction can occur in that part of the active plate, so capacity is lost.
I think I'm probably better off starting another thread, this is a complex subject, I'll skim over it as much as possible, but I'm happy to dive deeper if anyone wants to know more
T1 Terry
Should be interesting.The car goes to 'sleep' and iSmart has no way of waking it. I think it will be fine when you get back to it.
Our S5 won't be touched again until the end of the month ...let's see how that ends!
Our S5 won't be touched again until the end of the month ...let's see how that ends!
I think they are referring to the 12v aux battery failing or seriously discharging to the point the car won't turn on or even let you in without the manual key method.Our car was charged to 80% on Monday.
I understand EV batteries don't suffer power 'leakage'. However, during this period, it will be maintaining the 12V battery, which in turn is powering vital services within the car.
Working with AI, I used likely daily temperatures for the next 2 weeks, specified the car was facing the morning sun at a coastal location, and this is what I've come up with:-
- Possible daily draw on EV battery (to maintain 12V battery) ~0.2–0.35 % SoC per day
- 28 day estimate: 0.25–0.30 % × 26 days ≈ 6.5–8 %
In terms of energy (usable ≈ 61.5 kWh):-
- 6.5 % ≈ 4.0 kWh
- 8 % ≈ 4.9 kWh
- 9 % ≈ 5.5 kWh
Best (conservative) guess after 28 days: ~72–74 % SoC
We shall see!
Yes, I'm sorry if I'm drifting too far.I think they are referring to the 12v aux battery failing or seriously discharging to the point the car won't turn on or even let you in without the manual key method.
It will be interesting to see if it is a problem with the app continually waking the car up, but being so far away, it is no longer a bluetooth thing but a network connection required .....
T1 Terry