Grriff
Established Member
Can't you buy a portable fridge with 240V input and use a V2L lead? Or am I missing something?
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I thought about that, but i will be driving 2000+ kilometers so i cant use the v2l as i am driving. This might be an edge use case for an MG4 (to tour in), so most likely not what the plug or the entire circuitry is made to do.Can't you buy a portable fridge with 240v input and use a V2L lead? Or am I missing something?
I'd get a fridge with 12V and 240V input. Use the 12V while on the road and the V2L while the car is not.I thought about that, but i will be driving 2000+ kilometers so i cant use the v2l as i am driving. This might be an edge use case for an MG4 (to tour in), so most likely not what the plug or the entire circuitry is made to do.
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Most likely a non-problem if we don't prepare food that needs to be refrigerated. Sometimes it's good to know when to throw in the towel on an idea.
That's what my fridge can do. I can precool it at home on 240V, and then put it in the van on 12V.I'd get a fridge with 12v and 240v input. Use the 12v while on the road and the V2L while the car is not.
It's designed to be used in a vehicle, and run off a standard 12V socket, never had a problem in our van, and the cable also has its own fuse built in. I would expect it to run in the MG4 without issue too.Will it then not still blow the fuse of the MG4's 12V line?
Or, do you say your fridge draws less amps?
This is the fridge I have, It draws about 3-4 amps when running, so not a lot. I was planning on a 90AH lithium battery to run it, so not an issue killing the standard 12V battery.Did anyone found a fridge that could work? I am planning a roadtrip and would love to get ideas and experiences. We don't need anything big, maybe even find something compact for between the front and the back seats?
When you look at the specs of this one, the biggest battery would run it for 3 hrs!There is the Brass Monkey fridge with battery compartment built in. A bit pricey when you add batteries, but you save the hassle of extra wiring, etc.
UPDATE,I am looking to run a 12V car fridge full time in my MG4 77. Is it better to use the onboard 12V battery or add a second 12V lithium battery to do the job?
The fridge draws about 3-4 amps when running.
My concerns are running the onboard 12V battery down too low, that the car won't start, or having the fridge without power for extended periods (if it cuts off on low battery).
I think there is enough space in the front next to the onboard 12V battery to fit a 60AHr Lithium battery as well, and use a voltage sensing relay (for a dual battery ICE setup) from the Onboard 12V battery to keep it topped up.
Any advice or input is welcome.
You should have askedThe blue section on top of the battery is a 3D printed housing for the Anderson plugs, VSR, Fuse, circuit breakers, 3.5mm power outlet, and soon to be USB and volt meter.
As I am limited on space (as you can see the size of the fridge) I went with what I am hoping is the smallest suitable LiFePO₄ battery. And I don't need an excuse to make stuff with the 3D printer, so I now have what is probably the best compromise for size and flexibility.You should have askedI have a king's battery box with all the usual plugs (usb,Anderson, meter, isolation switch etc) and a kings Invertor. All new and surplus to my needs. I will call you later.