bear1
Established Member
I wondered if this might be a good solution to one problem
The idea seems great, though the price seems out of this worldI wondered if this might be a good solution to one problem
I didn't even look at the price! Yes, crazy. I suspect there will be something similar at a more sensible priceThe idea seems great, though the price seems out of this world
I do like the idea though and will look for similar solutions
Looking well organised there, well done. I’ve noticed the guys who convert small van based cars like the Berlingo etc always fit some easy way to open the tailgate as a potential emergency exit.I'm very pleased with my two new purchases. Picnic table (which I needed anyway for the washing basket when hanging out the line!) and a new air mattress to replace the 30+ year old one that wasn't staying inflated.
This seems to be a good hack for the SE without the false floor that the Trophy has. Table and garden chair almost bring the foot end of the air mattress up to the level of the folded-down seat backs - yes, really, the photo is deceptive. It wouldn't be hard to put something else in to raise it a bit more but I don't think it's necessary.
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The new airbed at a nominal 185 cm is not too long for the space available and in fact fits in very neatly indeed. The mains-operated pump is a thing of beauty, doing the job in seconds, and also capable of sucking the air out to deflate it as well. Obviously it can be run from VtL.
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I didn't bother putting a support under the head end because that's a solved problem, my flight bag will do the job, or a plastic box that can double as a container for food, kettle etc, and the kit when it's stowed away.
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There seems to be plenty "headroom" above the foot end of the airbed. It's still on a slight slope and as I said that could be rectified, but it seems fine to me.
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I'm five-seven. The full extent of the mattress is said to be six-two, though that might be a slight over-estimate. I fit in just fine and I would think anyone under six feet would be OK. Taller people might have to experiment with diagonal placement, as the OP suggests.
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Now all I need to do is find out how to make the HVAC stay on all night. A problem for another day. (I haven't tried the "get out on the passenger side" and variants yet. I'm also wondering if leaving the seat belt fastened might do something.)
The physical key blade inside the fob can do it. Just remove the cover on the other side of the boot latch and you should see a slot for the blade to go in to. Much less fiddley though, to keep a screwdriver with the right sized blade handy or fit some kind of handle.Looking well organised there, well done. I’ve noticed the guys who convert small van based cars like the Berlingo etc always fit some easy way to open the tailgate as a potential emergency exit.
I’ve not taken it any further yet - I think I’ll just carry and pitch the wee tent as required.
it works for MG5, probably does for all MGs ?. Lift out bottom seat cushions, then wedge them into footwell [out of the way], seat backs then fold down flat!A small hack for solo car camping
If you raise the floor and fold the rear seats, you can create a (mostly) flat area, long enough for me to sleep there diagonally.
moving the seat cushions only a temporary fix, to achieve required flat floor!. was never suggesting, removing!, replacing!. Moving the bottom seat cushions, is a relatively simple and safe procedure.Lifting out the bottom seat cushions and (even worse) replacing them is fraught with difficulty. I do not advise it.
Alternatively, do the DRL's have a specific fuse which is easy to find/pull? (if it wasn't a company car I would mess about and experiment a little)Looking at the possibility of camping without hook-up.
I have the official MG V2L adapter and the items in use will generally only use around 1kw max output (except for blowing up the camp beds at 1.6kw but nothing else in use at this stage) but as far as I can tell, when the car is in enter or ready mode, the DRL's are constantly lit.
I have read various forums and cannot find a definitive answer (although most say no) but is there (or has anyone ever) found a way to turn off the DRL's and use the car in true camp mode?
On a side note, for those that have used the car's V2L options, can the car be locked and still have output to the V2L?
Thank you in advance for your replies.
Car in use (if it makes a difference) MG4 Trophy LR
Sorry about the delay to reply, busy week.
So over the 10 days in Scotland I stayed in the car 6 nights, in some below zero weather too! Depending on where I parked up and slept, I was able to keep the car on, as long as I covered up the lights with some of my magnetic blackout curtains I use for the windows.
However in windy weather these would blow off so I just turned off the car by locking it. This just meant a lot of window condensation in the morning but with a towel I wiped this down and ran heater to dry it all up. No issues at all!!
Alternatively, do the DRL's have a specific fuse which is easy to find/pull? (if it wasn't a company car I would mess about and experiment a little)
Thank you.
Yes I read this but it mentions 2 high amp fuses for a single set of LED lights? Again this doesn't convince me this would be accurate information.I think someone might have discussed that earlier in this thread, if you read back.