gonzo
Standard Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2025
- Messages
- 47
- Reaction score
- 24
- Points
- 13
- Location (town/city + country)
- Poole, Dorset
- Driving
- ZS EV
I've just installed a split charge into my ZS EV, and thought I'd post here, in case anyone is looking to do the same in the future.
My ZS has loads of wasted space under the bonnet. And I need a 2nd 12V battery for my radios (radio ham here) also to use for camping etc.
The battery needs to also be deployable/hand carry, so I decide that lithium would be far more suitable.
The complications comes with linking this up to a car charge system that is designed for lead-acid.
My solution.
I have a piece of 4mm ali plate, cut to sit in the 'engine' bay of the car. I have 4off M8 mount holes in the top of the AC charge module and I have extended the bolts securing the HV distribution box, with some M8 studding. To give support on that side of the plate.
On there I have some angle ali bolted in place, to form a battery tray for the second battery. This battery is loaded in on its side to keep the height down (lithium doesn't care) and held down with a stout luggage strap. Connected to the charge system with an Anderson connector (50A). So the battery can be easily lifted out and carried to a camp site.
The plate has a couple of fuse boxes for the perm 12V (eg. my tow bar electrics), charging and the stuff I want to run from the 2nd batt.
Charge system turned out to be super simple. I found that the Victron Orion modules do everything I need. I have the 12/12-18. That is 12V in and out, 18A output.
They can be configured as power converters or chargers. (And if you choose different types, also convert voltages. eg. a 24V truck battery to a 12V.)
They have input voltage detection, so you can config to only power up when the engine is running (or in my case, the car batt is being charged) without needing to cut into an ignition line in the car loom. And configured for different battery chemistry if in charge mode.
The whole thing works perfectly. The only connection to the original car is to the lead-acid 12V positive. (And a backup ground.) So I can lift it all out with minimal fuss.
On my previous cars I also included a battery isolator switch, configured to tie both batteries. Effectively a built in jump start.
I didn't do this here, given the different battery chemistries. If I need to jump, I'll do it manually.
My ZS has loads of wasted space under the bonnet. And I need a 2nd 12V battery for my radios (radio ham here) also to use for camping etc.
The battery needs to also be deployable/hand carry, so I decide that lithium would be far more suitable.
The complications comes with linking this up to a car charge system that is designed for lead-acid.
My solution.
I have a piece of 4mm ali plate, cut to sit in the 'engine' bay of the car. I have 4off M8 mount holes in the top of the AC charge module and I have extended the bolts securing the HV distribution box, with some M8 studding. To give support on that side of the plate.
On there I have some angle ali bolted in place, to form a battery tray for the second battery. This battery is loaded in on its side to keep the height down (lithium doesn't care) and held down with a stout luggage strap. Connected to the charge system with an Anderson connector (50A). So the battery can be easily lifted out and carried to a camp site.
The plate has a couple of fuse boxes for the perm 12V (eg. my tow bar electrics), charging and the stuff I want to run from the 2nd batt.
Charge system turned out to be super simple. I found that the Victron Orion modules do everything I need. I have the 12/12-18. That is 12V in and out, 18A output.
They can be configured as power converters or chargers. (And if you choose different types, also convert voltages. eg. a 24V truck battery to a 12V.)
They have input voltage detection, so you can config to only power up when the engine is running (or in my case, the car batt is being charged) without needing to cut into an ignition line in the car loom. And configured for different battery chemistry if in charge mode.
The whole thing works perfectly. The only connection to the original car is to the lead-acid 12V positive. (And a backup ground.) So I can lift it all out with minimal fuss.
On my previous cars I also included a battery isolator switch, configured to tie both batteries. Effectively a built in jump start.
I didn't do this here, given the different battery chemistries. If I need to jump, I'll do it manually.
